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Old 08-12-2006, 06:31 PM   #1
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Changing out faucets- what size copper piping?

i am 360 miles from my 1978 air stream. i am changing out the kitchen and bath faucets. i have bought new replacement faucets. i have also bought the flexible armord hoses that connect to the underside of the faucet. could someone tell me the size copper that i will have to adapt these flex lines to? i believe i have to sweat fittings onto the existing copper pipe to connect the flex hoses to...... thanks, tuna
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Old 08-12-2006, 07:51 PM   #2
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Ours had 3/8" copper tubing.
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:00 PM   #3
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'72 kitchen and bath faucets have 1/4", bath has 3/8" copper. I'm also replacing faucets and will be using 1/2" PEX up to the screw connection on the new bath faucet.

Haven't looked at the Kitchen faucet yet. I may use a mesh hose (screw type) to a compression fitting for the 1/4" copper. My brother is also replacing his kitchen faucet with this strategy.
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:34 PM   #4
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Tubing

The risers are 3/8 copper, probably somewhat swollen with age so good luck sweating a fitting on. I think your best bet and whats worked for me is to buy 3/8 compression x 1/2 mpt, should be whats on the end of your new faucets,then connect with your armoured hoses, I guess you're referring to the flexible no burst?

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Originally Posted by charlie tuna
i am 360 miles from my 1978 air stream. i am changing out the kitchen and bath faucets. i have bought new replacement faucets. i have also bought the flexible armord hoses that connect to the underside of the faucet. could someone tell me the size copper that i will have to adapt these flex lines to? i believe i have to sweat fittings onto the existing copper pipe to connect the flex hoses to...... thanks, tuna
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:06 AM   #5
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thanks for the replies --- guess i'll make a trip to "big orange" and buy a variety of fittings to cover my butt! i'll buy both sweat and compression fittings. again, i'm 360 miles from my trailer and it's an hour to the hardware store from there. it seems like i recall seeing 1/2" copper -- reduced to 3/8" copper in the rear compartment --- but wasn't thinking about plumbing issues at the time! whatever i don't use i'll bring back ---- i always say that and then have all knids of leftovers!!! the cost of copper might change my mind though -- bought a ten foot piece of 5/8" soft copper to repair my gas line --- cost $39.95........................... tanks again for the help... tuna
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Old 08-13-2006, 02:54 PM   #6
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Hi charley tuna--Buy all your plumbing supplies in a big box store (every part and tool you can think of that you might need, and plenty of extras for when you screw one up). Do your repair, and return what you don't need. One thing about the big box stores they readily accept unused hardware, returned in a reasonable time, with a receipt.--Frank S
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:59 PM   #7
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The good news is that your new faucets should have 1/2" screw ends. You can limit what you need by opening your faucets to confirm this and take some reinforced hoses with 1/2" ends. Then you can take a variety of connections from those hoses to different size pipes.
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Old 08-13-2006, 09:17 PM   #8
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Pex

A very easy solution is to get yourself some 1/2 in PEX and a variety of SeaTech or Flair It fittings. Use a micrometer or set of calipers to find a piece of unfroze-unswollen copper and cut there.
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:21 AM   #9
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travis,
you got me scared with "swollen" copper pipes?? i have all the copper sizes covered with sweat fittings and compression fittings --- installing two faucets or four lines and i bought $56.00 worth of fittings to cover my butt. now the plastic fittings -- near my trailer's location there is a hardware store that has a decent supply of them --- so i might be OK there??? thanks again for all the comments and i will apply each of them. tuna
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Old 08-14-2006, 03:35 PM   #10
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The Flair-IT brand has a special connector between PEX and Copper. That does not come in all sizes. There are other brands of connectors that use their standard connector to connect to PEX and/or Copper. I do not know about SeaTech.

It is true that if the pipe has been frozen you will need to keep cutting pipe until you get to a point that the diameter fits in your connectors. I have not experienced a significant problem with swelling, except around a split. The micrometer is a decent idea. I'd borrow it unless you have other jobs that will need it.

I will recommend the smallest pipe cutter you can get. I think they get down to 2-3 inches tall.

If you go with hoses over PEX you may want to take some thread tape.
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"When you come to a fork in the road, take it"
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Old 08-22-2006, 12:02 PM   #11
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well things went alot better than i expected-------- the shower deverter valve cylinder was replaced and after a little investigation i figured out how and where the retainer ring went! then i found the same cylinder was used on the kitchen sink and bathroom vanity faucets. after i had the water "on" and the faucets operating i found a leak at the base of the kitchen faucet. that took another trip to the hardware to match up the two "o" rings!

next project------replace water heater--- i'll do a search on that subject!

thanks for the help on the faucets. thanks, tuna
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