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Old 10-16-2011, 01:05 PM   #1
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Can someone look this over?

I am redoing a 1953 clipper, it had been gutted by the PO, I need to set up an entirely new system. Since I have never worked on a AS before I am a little overwhelmed. My boyfriend drew out this diagram of the new fresh water system as I explained it to him ( ha ha) I am only putting in a kitchen sink, and a shower, as I am going to go with a composting toilet. I will have a 36 gallon fresh water tank and a 36 gallon grey water tank.
Would someone be so kind as to look this diagram over and tell me what I am missing and where it needs to go.
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Old 10-16-2011, 01:26 PM   #2
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suzyq Think it won`t work as drawn,the water tank needs a vent on it,therefore,I would move the check valve to the outlet on the pump[I believe some pumps have a built in check valve]the outside water line should have a valve ,then tie into your main line,then I would have a valved line going from the main line to the water tank to enable you to fill tank.Would suggest a water heater bypass,but it looks like you are like me and don`t need to worry about that.Hope this helps and isn`t more confusing.
Dave
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Old 10-16-2011, 01:57 PM   #3
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I am redoing a 1953 clipper, it had been gutted by the PO, I need to set up an entirely new system. Since I have never worked on a AS before I am a little overwhelmed. My boyfriend drew out this diagram of the new fresh water system as I explained it to him ( ha ha) I am only putting in a kitchen sink, and a shower, as I am going to go with a composting toilet. I will have a 36 gallon fresh water tank and a 36 gallon grey water tank.
Would someone be so kind as to look this diagram over and tell me what I am missing and where it needs to go.
Before you invest any money, in a up dated design, I would suggest that you purchase an Airstream "service manual" from probably 1974. That's the first year using a gray tank.

Study it well and it will help you properly design something pleasing to you, instead of a bunch of headaches, and a waste of time and money.

Andy
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:10 PM   #4
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so if I understand you, i need a vent on the tank, (is that just a small 1/2" short piece of pipe, or do I need a longer through the roof kind of vent?)
If the pump has a check valve then I do not need one in front of that right? Put a valve on the incoming city water in front of the water tank? what do you mean by water heater bypass? another piece of pipe that just allows you to use cold water without going through the water heater? don't we already have that?
Thanks
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:22 PM   #5
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It looks like your city water goes directly to the tank. It should "T" into the cold water line after the pump and before the water heater. You can run a line to fill the tank as you show in the picture, but I would put a shutoff valve on it at the tank.
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:47 PM   #6
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so if I understand you, i need a vent on the tank, (is that just a small 1/2" short piece of pipe, or do I need a longer through the roof kind of vent?)
If the pump has a check valve then I do not need one in front of that right? Put a valve on the incoming city water in front of the water tank? what do you mean by water heater bypass? another piece of pipe that just allows you to use cold water without going through the water heater? don't we already have that?
Thanks
Vent on water tank can be a hose just going thru the floor,it`s purpose is to allow air out of the tank when filling.
1 check valve is all you need.
Water heater bypass is for winterizing,so you don`t need to fill up the tank with antifreeze.
Need the valve before the tank on the water feed,so you can shut it off after it is full,when water comes out the vent you will know it is full.
Need valve on main feed to shut it off when you are running on pump.

Dave
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Old 10-16-2011, 05:21 PM   #7
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Vent on water tank can be a hose just going thru the floor,it`s purpose is to allow air out of the tank when filling.
1 check valve is all you need.
Water heater bypass is for winterizing,so you don`t need to fill up the tank with antifreeze.
Need the valve before the tank on the water feed,so you can shut it off after it is full,when water comes out the vent you will know it is full.
Need valve on main feed to shut it off when you are running on pump.

Dave
2 check valves are best.

One at the city water inlet and the other at the output side of the water pump.

The one at the city water inlet, stops the water from escaping when using the water pump.

The one at the water pump output, keeps the city water pressure of of it's valves.

The "vent line for a water tank, serves 2 purposes.

The first is to let the air escape when filling the tank.

The second is to allow air back into the tank when using the water pump, so that the plastic tank does not collapse.

Andy
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:24 AM   #8
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How to install a Valterra valve advice

So I purchased a polyethelene tank for the grey water. it will be installed in the frame just in front of the axle . I am cutting my own holes. I have a 3" Bladex waste valve. How do I attach it to the tank? and what else do I need for fittings after the valve? can someone walk me through this please? I have the compression fittings for the inlet and venting.
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:54 PM   #9
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How about adding a drain vavle on the hot water side of the water heater. Put it in the lowest location of the pipe This will allow you to drain the hot water pipes for winterization.
Ricky
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:39 PM   #10
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You will also need a vent for the grey water tank.
Most vents go thru the roof. It should be 1 1/2" pipe.
I agree with Andy, two check valves. You will also need a pressure regulator somewhere in the city water side. You can use one that is external. I highly recommend the pressure regulator. You can and will encounter water system with as much as 80#'s of pressure which will damage your water system.
Have you considered how much weight will be added to the trailer with these relatively large tanks? Figure 8# to the gallon with the weight of the tanks and mounting hardware.
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