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Old 03-27-2005, 11:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfixx
I hesitate to show this picture because its brutality may offend more sensitive viewers.

I beg to differ Jim...I will replace my valve from the front. I am going to cut a piece of aluminum to cover the gastly hole and mount a new mixing valve to. Of course it will be well sealed with Sikaflex.

I now have access to all my copper and am considering replacment with PEX.

Steve
Steve,

You wanna make two of those nifty aluminum covers?
I may be needing one for mine when I am done!
Like I said before... Out with the copper and in with the PEX!!!
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Old 03-28-2005, 07:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfixx
I hesitate to show this picture because its brutality may offend more sensitive viewers.

I beg to differ Jim...I will replace my valve from the front. I am going to cut a piece of aluminum to cover the gastly hole and mount a new mixing valve to. Of course it will be well sealed with Sikaflex.

I now have access to all my copper and am considering replacment with PEX.

Steve
Gotta love innovation. That is one way of getting at it. Can you see the whole run? Now is the time to replace with flexible!
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Old 03-28-2005, 07:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pattersontoo
You wanna make two of those nifty aluminum covers?
Sure Lou, I'd be glad to. The reason the hole is so big is because there was a large piece of particle board backing up the mixing valve handles I chopped it into 3 pieces with a chisel to get it out. I'm guessing that replacing it with stiff aluminum screwed to the face of the bathroom plastic will be plenty strong. The edges should overlap about 3/4 of an inch.

Steve
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Old 03-28-2005, 08:01 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by sfixx
Sure Lou, I'd be glad to. The reason the hole is so big is because there was a large piece of particle board backing up the mixing valve handles I chopped it into 3 pieces with a chisel to get it out. I'm guessing that replacing it with stiff aluminum screwed to the face of the bathroom plastic will be plenty strong. The edges should overlap about 3/4 of an inch.

Steve
Cool beans, buddy!
I don't have such a large hole though.
What are the dimensions of your hole?
The plastic on that part seems to be pretty sturdy so I would think that attaching the aluminum right to it would be strong enough.
What type of mixing valve are you going to use?
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Old 03-28-2005, 02:51 PM   #19
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Thumbs up Hiding hack job...

Quote:
Originally Posted by pattersontoo
What are the dimensions of your hole?
What type of mixing valve are you going to use?
Hi Lou, I cut out about 12" x 5" and I'll probably just buy a cheap valve from Camping World where they have them for about $15. I think that I have one of their stores within 30 minutes so I'm hoping to finally visit.

Please let me know how big a piece you need. The aluminum sheet that I have is .080 (@1/8th") and I can predrill and countersink the perimeter holes but you'll probably want to locate and drill the valve holes yourself. I'll pick you up some stainless screws when I buy mine.

I really appreciate your generosity and I'm glad to help you out if I can

Steve
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Old 03-28-2005, 09:41 PM   #20
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Hi Lou, I cut out about 12" x 5" and I'll probably just buy a cheap valve from Camping World where they have them for about $15. I think that I have one of their stores within 30 minutes so I'm hoping to finally visit.

Please let me know how big a piece you need. The aluminum sheet that I have is .080 (@1/8th") and I can predrill and countersink the perimeter holes but you'll probably want to locate and drill the valve holes yourself. I'll pick you up some stainless screws when I buy mine.

I really appreciate your generosity and I'm glad to help you out if I can

Steve
Steve,
Go ahead and make mine the same size. That is gonna look so cool in the shower. I have decided to change out the trim to match!
I should be finishing up my plumbing this evening. Yes, I am going out there now at 11 p.m.! I am NUTS! I just want to get this thing done.
I appreciate you taking the time to make it for me.
I guess that is a fair swap now, huh?
Let me know if there is anything else you need. I am always willing to let you have what I got left over!
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Old 03-29-2005, 08:15 PM   #21
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Post Follow up

Excellent news. I stopped by the hardware store on my way home today and picked up 2 3/8th copper caps. I cut the pipes ahead of the break(s) and soldered on the caps. It wasn't easy to find spots where the pipes weren't enlarged by freezing so I ended up going way upstream into the bathroom closet to cap them real close to the "T" that they come off of. Anyway, I connected the water hose and filled the pipes and NO LEAKS!!!

While I was on a roll I fired up the hot water heater and it worked too!!!

Now I just have to figure out how to replace those pipes to the kitchen.

Thanks to all for great advice and suppport,

Steve
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Old 03-30-2005, 07:58 AM   #22
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Looks like this was only a minor set back, good thing you check prior to heading out!
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Old 04-04-2005, 05:33 PM   #23
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Sigh...Misery loves company!

Steve - I just finished hooking up my new waterpump, and running a new waterline from the pump to the waterheater. Smug, I hooked up the water and heard what sounded like the shower. "Funny, I did't think I left the shower on?" is what I thought. After I ran back to the shower, to find it NOT on, but still hearing the waterfall, this post came screaming into my head! OH NO!! Yup, I too have a waterfall coming out of the bottom of my belly pan from what sounds like under the shower.

So, what I'd like to know is, did your water lines go from under the sink cabinet, over the black water tank, and then down to the front toe kicks? I'm having a sinking feeling that that isn't the case, and that my bigger Argosy has lines that go BEHIND the watertank/wall-sink combo unit, behind the shower, and around the back. WWAAAAHHH! I can only see water lines going from the inlet (back streetside corner, behind the sink, and continuing around the corner around the back of the shower.

I think I need to gut the bathroom to do this right.....
Marc
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Old 04-04-2005, 06:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy
I think I need to gut the bathroom to do this right.....

Marc,

Not the whole bathroom, but it will seem that way. If your lines look to go behind the toilet, I posted a step by step for Steve in this thread on what you will need to remove to get to all of the lines.

If your kitchen is a curbside one, and the water heater is also curbside, you will have many choices of pipe to replace.

I will list them: Main feed to the water heater, or feed back to the bathroom from the water heater, or the hot or cold line that feeds the shower. I feel for ya, now you know why some Po's use a hose and clamps to fix it. They just want to go camping!
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:02 PM   #25
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maybe some rubber hose...

will fix it right up! I know, it seems like a lot. My h2o heater is on the streetside, I have it plumbed new from the water tank, to pump, to heater. Now I just need to go from the water heater to bathroom sink, to shower, to the kitchen.

So the trim, I assume this means I need to drill out the rivets behind the metal trim, and take it off, freeing up the back panel? It seems like I need to remove the closet too, to free up room. I think the only thing I won't need to take out will be the shower? The actual plumbing will be easy, I think it's just getting everything out of the way first.

Brett - as an aside, how does the catalytic heater work in Vintage Thunder? I need to replace my furnace too, as it just died too. I thought the catalytic heater needed to vent (per the tech instructions at camping world). Does it vent through the wall? Have you measured a CO2 level with it running? Does it heat the coach up well?

I think I'll be attacking it this evening. I'm not sure if I'll be done in time for the rally in two weeks time!
Marc
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:06 PM   #26
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Coppper Or High Tech Plastic

Hi Steve:

I have purchased a 72 31' Airstream last year and will be starting on it soon. I don't plan to leave stock, as I have already put in new oak floors and oak cabinets. As for piping I was thinking of replacing the copper with that new plastic pipe out of Germany that doesn’t split open when it freezes. I live in Reno NV where freezing is a big problem. Had you given any thought to changing over? Or have you used some already? I was not sure reading your web site.

Thanks

Rick
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:12 PM   #27
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Marc,

The cat heater works very nicely. The venting requirements are minimal. There is no vent behind the heater. Having a window cracked and a vent cracked is all that is necessary.

The thing to remember is that it is radiant heat, no fan, no ducting. This means that tanks will have no heat, etc. You may want a fan to help move heat around.
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:16 PM   #28
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Rick,

Pex is what you are looking for. While I can't speak for Steve, I do plan to use it on the rest of my plumbing when I re-do it. I think as long as copper is winterized well, you shouldn't have to worry too much about splits. We had a quick freeze here in Seattle, and I didn't have time to get to it too early (my trailer is about 1.5 hrs from me and my wife was having some surgery done that required me to be home - trailers can come later )

Sounds like fun!
good luck!
Marc
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