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Old 07-12-2002, 08:46 PM   #15
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In the refrigeration industry, copper tubing and fittings are referred to by their actual measured outside dimension. (In the plumbing industry they are referred to by "nominal" dimensions)


Sounds if you may have purchased refrigeration tubing. You can use a swageing (SP) tool to expand the tubing then slide the new tubing over the old and sweat it together. I repaired all the freeze breaks in my unit this way.

Go here to really get confused.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load...011823723.html
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:13 PM   #16
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Re-piping your old Airstream

I am remodeling a 1962 Overlander and was pleased to find everything that was original in working order, until I put water into the system. Why I do not refer to this forum regularly is beyond me... Instead of air pressure testing I put water into the city connection and began to discover leak after leak throughout the copper plumbing. Freezing conditions were the likely culprit and after 5-6 patches with tubing segments and radiator clamps... I thought my probelme was solved. It wasn't. The Water heater was shot from ice expansion damage. The solution? I am replacing all the copper with PEX which is a modern plumbing product using a high pressure compression connected brass components. The tubing, fittings and hand tool for compression cost about $300.00 at Home Depot. PEX is used in modern RV's and residential construction where allowed. Accordign to the PEX website it is a materiel resistant to freezing. I am also replacing the water heater with a new one, after this everything should work well. The only downside to a PEX solution is the price of the proprietary compression ring crimping tool is the price...$139.00~ I guess I can always resell it on eBay!
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplyspent
I am remodeling a 1962 Overlander and was pleased to find everything that was original in working order, until I put water into the system. Why I do not refer to this forum regularly is beyond me... Instead of air pressure testing I put water into the city connection and began to discover leak after leak throughout the copper plumbing. Freezing conditions were the likely culprit and after 5-6 patches with tubing segments and radiator clamps... I thought my probelme was solved. It wasn't. The Water heater was shot from ice expansion damage. The solution? I am replacing all the copper with PEX which is a modern plumbing product using a high pressure compression connected brass components. The tubing, fittings and hand tool for compression cost about $300.00 at Home Depot. PEX is used in modern RV's and residential construction where allowed. Accordign to the PEX website it is a materiel resistant to freezing. I am also replacing the water heater with a new one, after this everything should work well. The only downside to a PEX solution is the price of the proprietary compression ring crimping tool is the price...$139.00~ I guess I can always resell it on eBay!
Check into renting the tool at a plumbing supply store or at a tool rental center. Before buying it outright, you can also ask a plumber, his fee may be less than $139.00. Make all the connections and cuts then make the compression fittings in one day.
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:15 PM   #18
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You can also use black plastic water line sold at HD or most hardware stores . The 1/2" is ID which will fit over the 1/2" OD copper . Warm the end good with a hair dryer and use a hose clamp.
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Old 06-04-2006, 11:12 PM   #19
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Another day, another milestone with my Overlander. All my efforts just to sell the blasted thing! I replumbed the entire unit in White / red (Cold & Hot although I am told there is no chemical difference) PEX tubing. the project moved far faster than I could have imagined. The best thing I discovered is that my water heater works like a champ and nothing inside leaks! I am impressed at how easy PEX is to use. I did discover that the fresh water holding tank is shot, rusted and crusted beyond repair. (the new owner will need to find a new one, I am done sinking money into this bear!) The project has been fun, someday I will tackle my third and final Airstream, my Father-in-Laws 1959 Overlander.
I ended up buying the crimp tool since nobody local rents them. I figure I can sell the tool on eBay for close to what I paid. I can even throw in 50 or so feet of extra red PEX.
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:51 AM   #20
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I do not recommend the "hose over the copper" method of fixing leaks in copper plumbing on Airstreams. This method will eventually come back and haunt you, when you least expect it. Either replace the copper, or use pex. Nothing is worse than spending the day at Disney, only to come back to the campsite, to find water gushing from the back of the coach with soaked carpeting in the bathroom
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Old 06-05-2006, 12:23 PM   #21
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Hi Pick--We always turn off the city water faucet, when leaving our A/S. Too many potential places to leak: inlet hose and fittings, as well as fittings and faucets in the A/S.--Frank S
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