All new Pex - replacing old plumbing

[ALANSD]

Originally Posted by nomader

This might be kind of late but, I repair plumbing on homes and see shark bites popping off all the time. I wouldn't recommend using them in the rear, if you use water in the winter, or ever. I replaced my plumbing with pex and used the solid rings you clamp. I have two water heaters, one of which is under the sink, and an extra cold line running to both sinks which supply drinking water from lines that have only been used for filtered/non tank water. It got very tight in spots, I had to resort to the two piece hand clap, which is a pain, and putting sections together and sliding them in.
I have yet to use the white connectors, and have yet to see one broken, that could be a good sign. The screw on grey stuff is absolute junk.

Interesting, as so many people here recommend the sharkbite. Seems problem free for many.

[AL’ UM- MONEY]

To answer some questions from previous post. Once you start with Pex it is difficult to stop.The stuff works great. I intended to change just some out but once you start it's easer to to do all of it. The copper in mine is refigrator copper and difficult to fix due to the OD size. I started out with crimp rings but was not satisfied. I changed to pinch rings with the tool from Lowes and worked better and could get in tighter places. While I was at it I replaced the water pump and added the antifreeze valve and strainer purchased from Camping World not expensive. I added more tubing to give me better access. I added a valve between the pressure side of the pump to the suction side so I can fill the fresh water tank internally rather then by a hose using shore water. I added a good filter and faucet only for drinking water and put a valve so I can remove and not put antifreeze through the filter. The hot water bypass was also inexpensive from Camping World and will allow easy winterizing.Today I added a shower valve and hand wand in the rear compartment to rinse feet from the beach. Don't forget to buy red and blue electrical tape so you don't cross lines. Ridged line worked better for me as I could Fisk it through with out tearing things out and makes for a better looking job. I replaced the regulator,check valve water inlet etc. The only thing original in the plumbing is the water tank and hot water heater. The whole job was not hard but was time consuming like every thing else. I intend to post some pictures as soon as I figure out how. Seems I'm a better repairman then a computer person. Maybe soon.

[Mikethefixit]

Gat
I'm not sure but I kinda figured out that all my copper was SOFT. Now for those who don't know,1/2 soft copper (comes in rolls) is not the same OD as Ridge(stick) copper. I had the same Problem GAT the sharkbite fittings didnt fit the Soft copper. Soft copper OD will fit inside Ridged Copper ID. Dont sound right but its true. I believe my trailer was built with soft copper and just rolled out on the floor and cut to length before any cabinets were put in. Soft copper is very easy to work. I cut my soft copper in a convenient place where I could get in and make a sweat fitting and I made my own adapter to fit Ridged Copper and then went on with the pex.
Worked really well.
ALANSD
I only had one leak when I turned on the pump and that was from a mis-seated fitting. It was right in the rear compartment and I just put some pressure on it and it clicked in and seated. No more leak. I have a city water pressure regulator to replace in the spring and I will use PEX again no problem.

[masseyfarm]

I was doing an alteration on the Clipper after purchase. Was putting in a door to store fishing rods under the waste tank. Had to cut the pex to the water heater. Limited space resulted in me not making a square cut and that was to cause grief later on. Traveling #11 in an isolated area in Northern Ontario, the pex line parted and we had a flood in the basement. I was able to rebend and reuse the sharkbite fitting and installed a strain relief which worked good to get us on the road again. I was able to do a proper repair with a short extension and new fitting from Lowes at a later stop in NY State.
I now carry a spare sharkbite back to back fitting for future emergencies.

Point to be made is:

The PEX cut has to be square for the sharkbite fitting to work properly.

[Further99]

What size Pex did you use? !/2 inch?

[ALANSD]

I think that is the commonly used size 1/2"

[AL’ UM- MONEY]

When I started the pex replacement I assumed you used one half for the main line and drop down sort of like is usually done in home construction. As I started purchasing fittings that swivel and connect to 1/2"pipe thread like on faucets hot water heater stubs and others it was better to use 1/2 through out My supplies came from Lowes so look at that's avaiable and it will help you decide.I used the fittings on several places that incorporate the built in gate valve so I can shut areas off. The only issue I encountered was with the 90 degree fittings. if the pipe pulls some at a strain they would leak. If room is avaiable use the straight and short stub then an elbow. Also spend the money on the tool to cut the Pex instead of a utility knife. ,better and safer.

[nomader]

I know one of the pipes that froze and pushed the shark-bite off of the pipe, was fully seated. I saw grooves in the pex from the metal ring inside the fitting, they ran up 1/2", if not more.
The fitting was outside, under a deck, but I was still amazed.
The other one was on copper, in a garage. It could have been mis-seated, but I doubt it. I do remember that it was in a span of about 3', with a copper 90* turn on both ends.

True, even if your heat went out for a couple hours, it's very unlikely anyone would let their AS freeze deep enough to push a shark-bite off.

They are pricey but handy.

[ALANSD]

All sounds good to me.

[ALANSD]

anyone with a 60s trailer know what the little white box is that attaches to the toilet water lines? Seems to have an in and out line. It is on the rear shell wall,,,in the outside access door area.
I have most of my copper out, but not sure when I go to reinstall, if that thing needs to be hooked up or just run a line to the toilet.

[ALANSD]

I borrowed an agle grinder with a cut off wheel, and got the last of the copper plumbing out. Now where to begin? I am thinking I will install the kitchen faucet and work back to the water heater, and bathroom.
(No water tank)

Any tips?