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Old 06-26-2010, 11:43 PM   #1
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air pressurized water system on '63 Safari

There is what I think to be a bleeder T-valve sticking out right next to the city water fill cap w the air nipple on it. That T valve does not turn. Is it supposed to and what is it for? Sprung a small leak in the under the counter glass water gauge but I think it's just finding a new gasket for brass top that will fix it. That T valve throws me. I also think there is a pressure regulator under there too but I am told that is regulated by 12v system and as I reported in the electrical forum I can't get that system going yet. If there is a switch for that regulator I sure cant find it.
I'm open to any and all comments.
Thanks millions!
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Old 06-26-2010, 11:45 PM   #2
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Some pictures would really help. The pressure switch is on the pump, probably a switch on the passanger side front area depending on your layout. Not sure about the valve you are speaking.
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Old 06-27-2010, 12:13 AM   #3
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How do I add pics (jpg) to this?
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Old 06-27-2010, 12:23 AM   #4
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when you post, click "go advanced" and then it will let you manage attachments if you scroll down below where you type the message in. then you select files to upload, click upload then post
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Old 06-27-2010, 02:22 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by mmenchel View Post
There is what I think to be a bleeder T-valve sticking out right next to the city water fill cap w the air nipple on it. That T valve does not turn. Is it supposed to and what is it for? Sprung a small leak in the under the counter glass water gauge but I think it's just finding a new gasket for brass top that will fix it. That T valve throws me. I also think there is a pressure regulator under there too but I am told that is regulated by 12v system and as I reported in the electrical forum I can't get that system going yet. If there is a switch for that regulator I sure cant find it.
I'm open to any and all comments.
Thanks millions!
Change the pressure system to a demand system. An update like that will in time, save you many cuss words.

You would need a plastic water tank, a water pump, a check valve and about 4 to 5 hours labor.

Andy
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Old 06-27-2010, 05:23 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by mmenchel View Post
There is what I think to be a bleeder T-valve sticking out right next to the city water fill cap w the air nipple on it. That T valve does not turn. Is it supposed to and what is it for? Sprung a small leak in the under the counter glass water gauge but I think it's just finding a new gasket for brass top that will fix it. That T valve throws me. I also think there is a pressure regulator under there too but I am told that is regulated by 12v system and as I reported in the electrical forum I can't get that system going yet. If there is a switch for that regulator I sure cant find it.
I'm open to any and all comments.
Thanks millions!
I think that's the valve that you can use a manual pump, such as a bicycle pump, to pressurize the tank if the 12v air pump is not working. I have a wall switch, like a light switch, that operates the air pump.
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Old 06-28-2010, 07:41 PM   #7
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air pressure water system on '63 Safari

I've attached a picture of what I think is an air pressure regulator(but who knows). I've pressurized the system by filling the water filler cap air valve stem with airpressure but it lasts only 1 min or so. This contraption is not powering up at all but if it only works on 12v power, I have none.(another topic) I would think it works on shore power too which I have plenty of but it doesnt power up on shore power. What do you do to keep the airpressure in the water system working?One person said to change over to a demand water system but before I do anything like that I'm trying to use and learn the original systems that the trailer intended. One reason that I purchased this AS is because everything is original.Also, I assume that the water in my tanks is always the only water avail to me? If I am at a campground with a water hookup I have no constant water hookup via hose etc. I have only the ability to fill my tanks when they are low, right? I realize that's getting ahead of myself I haven't even figured out how the air pressure controlled water system works yet but I'm tryin'
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Old 06-28-2010, 07:59 PM   #8
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The contraption is the optional air compressor, and I believe it does require 12 volt power.

The pressure tank system in your safari works on the principle that you fill the tank with water, close the cap tightly, and then pressurize the tank with air. As the water is depleted, more air is added. Either the "contraption" or a tire chuck at a service station can serve as the source of air.

Andy is correct that these systems often prove to be a fruitful source of frustration. If you're going to stay with it, you would want to locate any leaks and repair them. Be aware that parts for the original compressor may be difficult to find. Many Airstream owners performing otherwise faithful restorations do update systems that are not normally visible where the technology has improved significantly, most especially the propane regulator, brakes, converter, and water pump.
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:36 PM   #9
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your pump runs on 12 volts. Chances are the leak is either broken pipe, or the o-ring in the tank cap. Jammer is correct that many do upgrade (Andy mentioned this earlier as well). If you do decide to go with a standard on demand pump instead of a pressurized system, then please don't throw out the old pump, love to work a deal out with you, since we're planning on returning our system on our 63 back to original, and as Jammer mentioned, the parts on those pumps are hard to find.

Keep in mind the only time you need that pump is if you're out camping where you can't hook up a hose to a water supply from the city, well etc. I'm personally not aware of a 110 pump (most rv pumps are 12 volt), but am sure someone out there makes one.
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:31 PM   #10
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well first let me say thatnks! I love being a part( if even a newbie) of this community. Your response time is incredible and amazingly helpful. It usually takes days for my wife and kids to respond to me...(that's a whole other story)and I've only known you guys for a month!!!
Well first I'm going to start w the O-ring on the filler cap because I would have sworn I heard a hissing noise after I pressurized the system so first things first... Scott and Megan, if I do replace the compressor you guys will get it. Just keep answering my dumb questions so that one day I can keep answering someone elses dumb questions...
So just let me understand the concept...when I'm out campin without any leaks my pressurized system will run for a tank of water maybe with a repressurized refill once in a while from a bike pump or a car air compressor? When I'm at a campsite with water hookup; water, air, water,air etc right? Ok I will figure out this 12v system if it kills me...if it does then you have compressor pars sooner than you thought...
Thanks all
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:52 PM   #11
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There should be a place on your trailer (it ranges widely) for you to hook up a garden hose to the trailer, which when your system is water tight and running, will run just like your house, the water from the camp site (your house or whatever) will pressurize the system and water will flow normal.

Lets say you decide you want to go camping and stay somewhere with no utilities provided....

The way your current system is set up, you'd fill your fresh water tank at home, using the 12 volt pump there (switch located on the wall) when you need water, turn the switch on, air pump comes on, pumps air into the tank, which wants to force the water out the pipe and out whatever fixture (sink, toilet, shower) you turn on. Right now that hiss is the first problem, just need to figure out where the air leak is. Its good that its a hiss, and not running water, probably at the cap or an open valve somewhere. Yes if you don't use the 12 volt pump a bike pump or 12v car air compressor could pressure the system, of course the on board pump is automatic and therefore a bit more convenient.



The modern system they are talking about... instead of using air, just past the tank of fresh water it uses a 12 volt water pump to pump water out of the tank onto the other side of the pump. The pump has a one-way-check-valve that won't let water back into the tank, so it creates water pressure on the fixture sides of water system. The pros of this is that you don't have to worry about getting a perfect seal on the tank inlet etc.

If you get a chance, take a few pictures of the tank, the valves etc around it, the inlet where you put water in etc and post them. In the past 47 years alot may have been modified or converted over.

hope that helps
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:08 PM   #12
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On a few trailers of this era, I have witnessed a hose bib faucet like on the outside of your house attached to the water fill cap for the tank. I know, it sounds jerry-rigged to me too, but I believe the factory did this instead of providing a different place for the city water supply to connect. If this is the case, I guess you'd use the city water line to fill your tank via a hose but the compressor would need to pressurize the tank for any water to come out onboard your trailer. Does yours have one of these set-ups?

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Old 06-29-2010, 08:58 AM   #13
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thanks for all your input and explanations! I'm getting camping lessons 101 from all of you. I will continue to look for any signs of a city water fill hose bib attachment because I do get the theory of how that would work in it's simplest of form. There is no jerry rigged or otherwise hose bib on the filler cap just the air press nipple. There is a switch next to the galley that I've figured might control the compressor but since I have no 12v power it has never operated anything. I'm on a 12v mission... I will also look for air leaks but there are no water leaks anywhere that I can see (which is good) so I'm going to start w that O-ring. When I originally heard the hiss I thought it might be coming from that T valve next to the air/water fill cap in the water fill compartment but that is on there tight and that's why I asked about it originally. I'll change the O-ring first. It's all a process of elimination. FYI this Safari has been sitting on a lot in Ca. for 40 years. Every single thing is original. I will figure them out 1 by 1. I'm going to put new tires on it tomorrow and I believe those will be the only non original parts to date
Thanks to all
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Old 06-29-2010, 09:08 AM   #14
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A couple of points about your hiss. First, if its hissing and not dribbling water, its leaking above the water line in the tank and water lines. That's a good thing. Second, use a spray solution of dish soap and water and spray it on the fittings, cap and anywhere else you think it may be leaking. It'll blow bubbles where the leak is located.

Good luck on your mission.

Brad
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