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Old 06-03-2004, 09:37 AM   #15
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John,

My water pump was bypassed too, when I bought it. My pump worked.
I thought that they bypassed it to make it easier to blow out the pipes
for winterizing.
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Old 06-03-2004, 10:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 59toaster
Your pump is proably bad and they bypassed it and were just using it on City water. Test it!
If it is bad, is there a rebuild kit? I imagine that it's probably the diaphragm, if it has such a thing, or bearings. The pump does spin the wheel and belt, and tonite I'm going to hook up some hoses and put them in a bucket of water to test the pump. does the pump from '66 need to be primed first?

John
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Old 06-03-2004, 06:58 PM   #17
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Greetings John!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2
If it is bad, is there a rebuild kit? I imagine that it's probably the diaphragm, if it has such a thing, or bearings. The pump does spin the wheel and belt, and tonite I'm going to hook up some hoses and put them in a bucket of water to test the pump. does the pump from '66 need to be primed first?

John
From your description, it sounds as if you have a Peters and Russell (PAR) water pump. Rebuild kits for most models are available if you find a knowledgeable repair techician. The only time that I have been less than absolutely satisfied with my Airstream dealer was when I found that my original PAR (on the Minuet) had been replaced by a Shurflo pump rather than rebuilding the superior original equipment pump - - the new Shurflo was less costly than the labor and parts to rebuild the PAR, but had I been given the opportunity a rebuild would have been requested. Based on the cheap plastic construction, I will be shocked if the Shurflo lasts five years; and it produces several times the noise of the the PAR (I feel like I am back in my old 1980 Nomad every time that Shurflo cycles on which was a far from pleasant ownership experience.)

Good luck in your quest for a PAR rebuild kit!

Kevin
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Old 06-03-2004, 07:30 PM   #18
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I have seen the rebuild kits on the shelves at West Marine. They run 40.00 to 60.00 as I remember. They are now made by Jabsco.
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Old 06-03-2004, 10:46 PM   #19
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Well, it's doesn't pump. Attached hoses to the in and outlets, primed the inlet by pouring water down the inlet hose and turned it on. The little motor pumped away, but no water came out. Guess I need a new one or a rebuild. Is the opinion that the Shurflo is NOT the way to go? Is the original (on a '66 Safari) 12 volt?

John
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Old 06-03-2004, 11:50 PM   #20
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Replacement Pump

My wife just said "Rebuild it?!? Buy a new one!" So, I have seen one no vote for the Shurflo. Are there any replacement pumps that anyone recommends?

John
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Old 06-04-2004, 06:32 AM   #21
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John,

There are thee levels of pump. Low mid and high cost. The main difference is the noise level made by the pump when it is running. The higher the cost the lower the noise. Look at the price of a new PAR, $225.00. You could stay OEM but for a few dollars less can get a VSD pump that will be very quiet. Stay away from the bottom of the price ones as they tend to be VERY noisy. I have a VSD and love it.
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Old 06-04-2004, 07:34 AM   #22
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John, it sounds like you have a pressure pump that pressurizes the water tank. All Airstreams today, and all rv's as far as I can see, use demand pumps that simply draw on the water tank as water is needed.

I believe Airstream is using Aquajet pumps in many of their models. I bought an Aquajet ES variable speed pump and have found it very satisfactory. They have a larger capacity model, as does Sureflo, Jabsco and Jabsco's companion brand whose name eludes me right now.

The new variable speed pumps are very quiet. The larger capacity models can draw rather a lot of amps (up to 10!), so proper guage wiring can be a problem. The ES has a max draw of six amps, I believe, and the existing wiring is usually sufficient.

While the pumps themselves are very quiet, some efforts must be made in installation to keep the water pulses from creating water hammer in the pipes. Use braided water grade plastic tubing for about 18" from the pump pressure side. Use foam pipe insulation around any plumbing runs that touch anything at all. Secure the pump itself solidly. And finally, the Aquajet pumps have an adjustable regulator that fine tunes the output to your system. If too high, it will thrum and buzz.

Even though I went with the lower capacity ES model, it will pump a strong stream out of every faucet even when all are open simultaneously.

Good luck,

Mark
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Old 06-04-2004, 12:38 PM   #23
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Greeting John!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2
My wife just said "Rebuild it?!? Buy a new one!" So, I have seen one no vote for the Shurflo. Are there any replacement pumps that anyone recommends?

John
If my dealer had given me the option, my choices would have been (1) rebuild the original; or (2) replace with a new PAR (Peters and Russell) - - now manufactured by Jabsco. I know that the PAR on my Airstream was a replacement that I purchased from Camping World several years ago - - it was a catalog only item at that time. I have had several Shurflo pumps on my former Nomad and none was as quiet as the PAR which was one of my primary reasons for choosing it as the previous owner of my Airstream had installed a Shurflo. The PAR on my Minuet was the original from '78 and was said to only need a "short" rebuild kit; but according to my dealer, the kit plus install was equal in cost to the cost of the Shurflo plus installation - - what wasn't mentioned was that the PAR would probably outlast four or five of the Shurflos. (IMHO)

Kevin
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:26 AM   #24
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Thanks everyone for your advice. I was worried that the whole thing was going to delay our shake down trip in two weeks, but since the Detroit Metro area has something like 6 West Marine stores I can get a pump and hoses, etc...no prob.

John
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:04 PM   #25
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Question Cutter?

From the pix it looks like a normal PVC pipe cutter...any difference?

Quote:
Originally Posted by R&SZinser
So some research on the web and a trip to Ace Hardware and I'm all set.
I'm using Flair-it fittings, new PEX pipe, and stainless steel braided hoses. In order to make the attachments to the Water Filter and Faucet hoses I had to also use some brass Female Pipe Thread to Compression fittings.
I didn't want to mess around with cutting the pex or potentially stripping off the Flair-it fittings so I bought a dedicated PEX cutter and the Flair-it wrench.
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:14 PM   #26
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Electric ???

So the ES uses only 6 amps...do all these pumps only run on the AC or do they run 12volt as well...I have seen a few people who have replaced pumps but say they only run on AC not the 12 volt DC...could this be correct?

I am redoing my whole water system and replacing everything, so I need to figure out the pump and I want it to work on both 120 and 12V...also I do not want to re-wire as the wiring seems to be in good shape...the PEX looks simple and good...any other thoughts?

Thanks.
'
Quote:
Originally Posted by j54mark
John, it sounds like you have a pressure pump that pressurizes the water tank. All Airstreams today, and all rv's as far as I can see, use demand pumps that simply draw on the water tank as water is needed.

I believe Airstream is using Aquajet pumps in many of their models. I bought an Aquajet ES variable speed pump and have found it very satisfactory. They have a larger capacity model, as does Sureflo, Jabsco and Jabsco's companion brand whose name eludes me right now.

The new variable speed pumps are very quiet. The larger capacity models can draw rather a lot of amps (up to 10!), so proper guage wiring can be a problem. The ES has a max draw of six amps, I believe, and the existing wiring is usually sufficient.

While the pumps themselves are very quiet, some efforts must be made in installation to keep the water pulses from creating water hammer in the pipes. Use braided water grade plastic tubing for about 18" from the pump pressure side. Use foam pipe insulation around any plumbing runs that touch anything at all. Secure the pump itself solidly. And finally, the Aquajet pumps have an adjustable regulator that fine tunes the output to your system. If too high, it will thrum and buzz.

Even though I went with the lower capacity ES model, it will pump a strong stream out of every faucet even when all are open simultaneously.

Good luck,

Mark
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Old 08-10-2004, 10:01 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blrpix
So the ES uses only 6 amps...do all these pumps only run on the AC or do they run 12volt as well...I have seen a few people who have replaced pumps but say they only run on AC not the 12 volt DC...could this be correct?

I am redoing my whole water system and replacing everything, so I need to figure out the pump and I want it to work on both 120 and 12V...also I do not want to re-wire as the wiring seems to be in good shape...the PEX looks simple and good...any other thoughts?

Thanks.
'
The pump runs off 12 VDC. When plugged in the univolt or magne-tek makes plenty of 12 VDC to run the pump. So stick with a 12 VDC one.
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Old 08-11-2004, 06:07 AM   #28
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Having done two, I would go with a re-build kit for the PAR.

The job is very easy and takes about an hour or so. PAR equipment is far superior to most of the new stuff on the market, so make use of it. West Marine sells the rebuild kit, but make sure you take the old pump with you as the kits look alike, but there are different sizes that your eyes seem to miss!

One nice feature about using existing equipment, the space it fits into is perfectly sized and shaped.

Rick
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