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Old 08-05-2016, 03:17 PM   #15
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1993 25' Excella
CLeveland , Ohio
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Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver View Post
Doesn't the tank have a spot where the fill hose is attached to the tank via a threaded connector. If you in screwed the adapter it should give you a decent way to drain the tank.
If you get that out, tip it up on end with the hole down, put a hose up in through the hole and run some water for a while. The constant flow of water down and out the hole should help flush out the gunk. Then an overnight soak or two with vinegar or bleach. Rinse, repeat. Finish with bleach for antiseptic purposes.
If you do get it sealed you'll want to try to seal the fill door as best you can otherwise you'll just start getting more crud in there. The fill doors don't seal well and when it rains dirty water runs down the side of the trailer and slowly gets back into the tank through the flip out fill door. Or you can replace the fill door with a marine fill and a vent.

WHere is this threaded connector? Is it underneath? Is it under an inspection plate?
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:22 PM   #16
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
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Originally Posted by Akronguy View Post
WHere is this threaded connector? Is it underneath? Is it under an inspection plate?
Depends on the tank. My originL tank had a 1-1/2" plug on the bottom just above a plate screwed on the bottom of the pan and the 1-1/2" port where the fill hose entered the tank.

I just got hit by why Chuck is having such a hard time. The wings, I forgot about the tanks that have the big indentation on the fill end creating the wings,
It'd be drastic but you could hole saw in top and then seal it with some stainless sheet, stainless screws and a bunch of sealant. Sucking with shop vac and piece of pipe is probably the best first option.
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:24 PM   #17
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1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
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...What about using a long piece of narrow PVC pipe, insert into the tank with the tank standing on end so that the crud is not in the wing section. ...
That's the plan, actually. I did some experimenting with fittings and pipe that I had on hand...all I had was some of that black plastic pipe used for sprinkler systems (and also, a/c condensate drains). Its semi-rigid, but a little bit too flexy. I attached it to a hose-barb fitting that is threaded on the other end, and connected that to a little pump that operates with a drill. It worked, sort of...just too difficult to maneuver the pipe to the right spot. When I did manage to hit the spot, it did suck out water + crud. I figure it will work like a charm with a piece of more rigid pvc pipe.

I'm also going to make a spray-wand out of another piece...cap the end, and drill 1/8th holes around the cap...connect the other end to a garden hose, and then I'll be able to "power wash" any remaining crud that is stuck to the walls.
(they sell something like this for spraying out black-tanks by sticking it down the toilet...but its too short for the fresh tank).
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:24 AM   #18
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1971 27' Overlander
Jackson , Tennessee
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One solution to two issues

Here's what I did to 1) adequately clean my tank and 2) allow a way to completely dry it after use. I never liked the idea of leaving moisture in it enclosed, then expect a rinse with bleach water to clean it for next use.

As suggested above, I added a deck plate (available at any marine store) in the street-side back corner of the tank. This allowed me full access for cleaning and draining. I used bleach, crushed ice, hot water, cleansers - all worthless at getting the slimy gunk out. I finally used about a half gallon of KrudKutter with a few gallons of water, then added several handfuls of sharp pea gravel. I shook and tumbled the tank around the back yard a bit with this mixture then emptied and rinsed a few times, and the inside was squeaky clean. (The pictures show the black residue that was all over the interior of my tank, then the "after" results.)

I tested the deck plate under pressure by filling the tank half full and standing it up on end with the plate down - more pressure than it will ever see in the trailer - and it held without leak.

I planned so that the access plate would end up under the galley cabinet. Now I use my shop vac to empty the tank; jacking the trailer up at the tongue and the curbside gets all the water to that corner. Now my tank stays dry when not in use.

Alan
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:13 AM   #19
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1981 31' Excella II
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Bleach will get all the bad actors. Some sediment is not harmful. I am still not an advocate of drinking water from tanks that sit a lot. If you are full timing, I would sterilize the tanks once a year with bleach. If it sits a lot then sterilize and rinse before each trip. Figure out how much bleach you need to get above 10ppm and use that for routine maintenance, rinse after. For really neglected tanks, I would use probably 1/2 gal of bleach and fill the tank all the way up with water and let it sit for an hour. If you can take it for a drive all the better then drain and rinse. Tap water can go as high as 3ppm of Chlorine. That will keep the tank sterile if you use it a lot. Carry bottled water to drink or use a carbon filter. Baths, hand washing, and brushing your teeth should be fine with properly maintained tank systems.

Perry
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:47 AM   #20
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Thanks for the pics, Alan...great idea. I think that deck plate might work out in my config, too...should be accessible.
I had the same concern for my flat-bottomed grey tanks that I installed; those will surely accumulate solids that won't ever completely drain, too. I don't need a deck plate on those; I'm going to just make sure that the vents are attached with a clean-out fitting, so I can get access...probably just pump into the toilet. (black tank is sloped, so that will completely drain). It'll just be part of the end of season/winterizing routine.
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