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Old 05-13-2009, 04:40 PM   #15
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1960 24' Tradewind
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Thanks Sugarfoot. I enjoyed "Traveling with Elvis".
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Old 05-13-2009, 04:54 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by WcfdPiper View Post
Thanks Brad. Your before pics look a lot like what I'm dealing with now. Was your custom tank expensive? Someone else suggested the PEX as well. I am in the process of replacing the front floor and am wondering if I should do the plumbing then replace the floor or do the floor then the plumbing. My thought is floor then plumbing. My refrig is completely destroyed and I am considering going just electric. The 2 ways are VERY expensive. I'll post some pics.

Dave
Hi Dave ~

The replacement tank was just over $200 back in 2002. Probably more now. Try to put all of the plumbing lines, both fresh and waste above the floor so it doesn't freeze. So you'll want to do your floors before the plumbing. If you plan on putting in tanks between your frame rails, as some have done, obviously those would need to be below the wood floor and easier to do from above before the floor is installed.

I sent you a PM about your TradeWind serial number and floor plan.

Brad
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Old 05-13-2009, 07:14 PM   #17
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Dave, welcome to the wonderful world of Tradewind ownership. Tradewinds are AWESOME!

BTW Brad, that tank set-up under your dinette really looks nice.
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:01 PM   #18
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Brad,
Can you resend the PM. Either I didn't get it or I'm doing something wrong. Thanks for the advise and help. I'll try posting pics very soon.
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:07 PM   #19
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Here are a few pics of the tank and "pump."
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Old 05-15-2009, 11:30 PM   #20
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Brad,
Can you resend the PM. Either I didn't get it or I'm doing something wrong.
I resent the PM. Did you get it? Yup, your tank area looks very similar to what i started with.

Brad
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Old 05-15-2009, 11:54 PM   #21
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1961 22' Safari
Union , Oregon
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Dave--
It certainly appears that you have the Grover air pump and have a pressurized water system.
The pump was usually set to come on at about 25 psi and shut off at around 45 psi. The pressure is adjustable. Some people like this system and others do not. I have the air pump and like the fact that I don't have to listen to the pump every time I run any water. The air pressure system also makes it easy to winterize by having self-contained air pressure needed to blow out the lines. On the downside, the square cornered plastic tanks do have a higher water capacity. Just do not try to pressurize them! If you decide to do away with the pressure system please do not throw away the air pump -- there are others who would be happy to purchase it from you. If your pump has not been run for some time it might need to be cleaned and have the oil level checked and probably changed.
Have fun with your rebuild process. I rebuilt the entire water system in my Safari. If you have any questions I may be able to help.
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Old 05-16-2009, 02:32 AM   #22
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That looks like the preasurized system I have (had) in my '63 Avion.
I kept the preasurized tank when I re-did all the plumbing (Colorado Trailer == many split lines) because I liked it for all the reasons mentioned above. The origional compressor was long gone, but a cheapo $12.00 12v pump worked nicely.
Another giveaway is if the tank's filler cap has a hose attatchment. This lets you fill your tank, which also compresses the air in the top of the tank to around 50 PSI (depending on your water preasure). I set my pump to come on at 25PSI and I could go most of a days worth of camping before it kick on. Unfortunatly, one of the welds failed on the tank, and the trailer became self cleaning. I just finished the city-side plumbing (hose inlet and drain) and just ordered a 21gallon tank off Ebay for around $60 after shipping that almost fits the space the old 10Gallon tank was. I will have to move the bunk frame 2" back, but that will allow a Full futon mattres to fit on the bunk now.
My only regret now is I have to cut a 2 1/2 inch hole in the side of the trailer for the gravity fill.

Long story short (to late) Enjoy the presurized tank while it lasts, it really was a clever system. But if you have any doubts about keeping it, replace it now while you have the bunk taken out in case you need to make any modifications to fit around the new tank.
Cheers,
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Old 05-16-2009, 07:49 AM   #23
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1960 24' Tradewind
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Thanks for all the replies and advise. My plan is to pull out the tank and pump and put in a 20 gallon tank with a 12v pump. I am afraid of what might still be in the tank as nothing has been done with this AS for over 10 years and the fill cap was loose. Of course that is after the floor is replaced. I also need to replace the water lines and kitchen fittings. Any thoughts?
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Old 05-16-2009, 08:23 AM   #24
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Brad, I did get your PM and I sent you an email with some info. I didn't get the floor plan. Thanks for your help!
Dave
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Old 05-16-2009, 11:44 PM   #25
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Check this out - thought I should at least let you know it's out there:

CAMPER TANK 25 GAL ALUMINUM WATER TANK WITH COMPRESSOR:eBay Motors (item 120421144674 end time May-22-09 11:13:57 PDT)
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Old 05-17-2009, 03:47 PM   #26
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1960 24' Tradewind
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Thanks Gary. I checked out your images. Your AS is a real beauty. I think I'm going to replace the whole system. I just have to make up my mind which way to go!
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Old 05-17-2009, 05:58 PM   #27
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Dave,

I replaced the pressure system in my '59 TW with a larger tank and pump system, like Brad's.

One thing you might like to add is a small well type pressure tank. Then you can turn the pump off at night and the pressure tank will let you use about a gallon of water without running the pump.
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