Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-01-2006, 03:11 PM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
sflagg's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Pennsauken , New Jersey
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5
Angry 1972 Airstream Ambassader Need help with water lines

Hello Everyone,
I am new to this forum so I hope someone can help me...I just got a 1972 Airstream Ambassader trailer (29') and have no idea how to get the water on in the trailer. I read the owners manuel and have done everything it says to do (it was previously winterized by the previous owner and I was told everything works...Yeah right). I never owned a trailer before so I do not know what I am doing or if I am even doing it right. The trailer right now is in my driveway...I hooked up a hose to the back and tried to turn on the faucet in the kitchen as well as in the bathroom but I get nothing...I turned all of the water lines on but still get nothing. I do get water leaking a little bit from the rear belly of the trailer but not alot. I tried the water pressure regulator and even tried filling the water tank. Nothing works. I know I am doing something wrong I just don't know what. Can someone please help me? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
__________________

__________________
sflagg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 04:11 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
tphan's Avatar
 
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont , Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
hi- I have a '72 also, and am no expert on water systems but I know that the 2 water systems work somewhat independently, with certain valves opened or closed depending on whether you're using hosed-in water, water from the tank, or if you're draining the system. Using the hose, you would want the valve in that line open, with drains closed, and tank valves closed. If you have stop-valves on your sinks, they have to be open too. When using water from the tank, the valves may have to be in different positions, AND the pump has to be on. there is a switch for it on the control panel, you will hear it if it is working. Look at the diagrams in your manual, find all the valves (some in the rear, some inside the galley cabinet, there's about half a dozen of them), and methodically trace how the water will be able to get to the sinks. good luck!
__________________

__________________
tphan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 04:41 PM   #3
1 Rivet Member
 
sflagg's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Pennsauken , New Jersey
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5
Thank you for your help. I'm going to try everything you said to try and will let you know what happens. Wish me luck...
Sonia
__________________
sflagg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 04:56 PM   #4
2 Rivet Member
 
bimi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 86
Images: 1
may be able to help

I have a 71 ambassador, and it may be a little different, but I can tell you what I have to do. There are three valves under the sink. These are all drain valves, so make sure they are closed. There are two valves in the back by the dump lever. They are drain valves also, so make sure they are closed. If you have the water on from the street and you haven't waited long enough, you may actually be filling your hot water tank, whichg may take a minute or so with no water coming through the lines.
I experienced a problem once when my kitchen sink faucet wouldn't work. It turns out it had so much crud in the screen that once I took that off the water just started flowing.

Did you check the water coming out of the toilet or bath?
__________________
2002 Dodge 1500 4x4 quad cab, 1971 Ambassador International, 1 Bad-Boy Tote Tank
bimi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 06:11 PM   #5
1 Rivet Member
 
sflagg's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Pennsauken , New Jersey
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5
Hi,
Well I believe that my 72 Ambassador is the same as your 71...I closed all the valves you told me to and checked the faucets but still no luck. I made sure the valves that needed to be open remained open but I still can't get any water in the kitchen sink, bathroom sink, tub or toilet. I took the screens out of the faucets and they looked clean. I think I got stuck with a trailer I can't even use...at least till I can figure out what's wrong with this thing. Thank you all for your help.
__________________
sflagg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 06:17 PM   #6
2 Rivet Member
 
bimi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 86
Images: 1
check your

check you private messages if you get a chance.
__________________
2002 Dodge 1500 4x4 quad cab, 1971 Ambassador International, 1 Bad-Boy Tote Tank
bimi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 06:25 PM   #7
2 Rivet Member
 
bimi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 86
Images: 1
Water

Here is a copy of the water lines that were pretty close on my 71.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	water pipes.JPG
Views:	680
Size:	81.8 KB
ID:	20058  
__________________
2002 Dodge 1500 4x4 quad cab, 1971 Ambassador International, 1 Bad-Boy Tote Tank
bimi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2006, 05:54 PM   #8
1 Rivet Member
 
sflagg's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Pennsauken , New Jersey
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5
Talking I got it to work...but

Thank you Thank you Thank you
I got it to work...It took all day since I don't know much about plumbing. I had to take off that thing-a-migin that is in the rear of the trailer by the dump lever (looks like a filter of some sort). It was filled with gunk. Cleaned it out and put it back...but then found out there is a huge leak in the lines going to the bathtub. But all the other lines work fine...thank god. I am going to have to remove the lines and get new ones for the bathtub but that's okay I'm just happy I got something done. Again, thanks.
__________________
sflagg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2006, 10:40 PM   #9
Frank S
 
1973 27' Overlander
peoria , Illinois
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 316
Hi sflagg--Believe what you removed may have been the old style pressure reduction valve. My '73 had one with a freeze crack from the previous owner. I removed it and use a $8 Marshall pressure reducer at the city water source. I have 1/2" copper tubing for all my water lines, which experienced leaks from time to time, always in difficult to get at places. I have had great success just cutting out the old pipe, and installing 5/8" inside dia flexible clear plastic tubing, over the pipe ends, and locking down with stainless steel hose clamps. Be sure to always use a pressure reducer on your incoming water, which are 40psi, and you will have no problem. I always carry some extra plastic tubing and clamps, for a quick fix, which will last the life of your trailer. Dry up those drips, and you won't have to replace your floor.--Frank S
__________________
Frank S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2006, 09:42 AM   #10
Rivet Master
 
1975 29' Ambassador
Reno , Nevada
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,351
Look for 3/8" PEX tubing at Lowes or Home Depot and Quest fittings to repair split copper. You can use the fittings on either copper or PEX which makes things quite a bit easier.

It is often a good idea to just run PEX from the rear up to the kitchen to replace the copper. Its usually not too much of a hassle and you can then avoid potential future freezeup problems. You can get PEX color coded so you can tell hot from cold, too.
__________________
bryanl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2006, 10:57 AM   #11
Patriotic
 
Chuck's Avatar

 
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,533
Images: 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
My '73 had one with a freeze crack from the previous owner. I removed it and use a $8 Marshall pressure reducer at the city water source.
what did you do for a check valve, to keep water from the water pump from just flowing out the city inlet?
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2006, 04:46 PM   #12
Frank S
 
1973 27' Overlander
peoria , Illinois
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 316
Hi chuck--My unit had a separate ball check valve in the copper line, which I left in place. It looked like factory installed, but may have been installed by the previous owner, who had done some plumbing work in the area.--Frank S
__________________
Frank S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2006, 06:53 PM   #13
1 Rivet Member
 
sflagg's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Pennsauken , New Jersey
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5
Great idea

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
Hi sflagg--Believe what you removed may have been the old style pressure reduction valve. My '73 had one with a freeze crack from the previous owner. I removed it and use a $8 Marshall pressure reducer at the city water source. I have 1/2" copper tubing for all my water lines, which experienced leaks from time to time, always in difficult to get at places. I have had great success just cutting out the old pipe, and installing 5/8" inside dia flexible clear plastic tubing, over the pipe ends, and locking down with stainless steel hose clamps. Be sure to always use a pressure reducer on your incoming water, which are 40psi, and you will have no problem. I always carry some extra plastic tubing and clamps, for a quick fix, which will last the life of your trailer. Dry up those drips, and you won't have to replace your floor.--Frank S
Hi Frank S, I took your idea and got the clear plastic tubing...everything is working out great so far...no more leaks. I'm having a little trouble with the battery. I think I might have to invest in a new one. It still had the one the previous owner had. Thanks for the great advice.
__________________
sflagg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2006, 07:48 PM   #14
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,189
About the gawdawful hum you are about to hear...

Quote:
Originally Posted by sflagg
Hi Frank S, I took your idea and got the clear plastic tubing...everything is working out great so far...no more leaks. I'm having a little trouble with the battery. I think I might have to invest in a new one. It still had the one the previous owner had. Thanks for the great advice.
When you finally get a new battery in your coach, and get it hooked up to 110 volts, you will probably hear a pretty loud hum. If so, it is normal for what you have, it is called a Univolt, and keeps the battery charged (sometimes too much). It also can operate the 12v lights, fans, and water pump.
__________________

__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water Leak jcanavera Leaks - Weatherstrips, Gaskets, Caulks & Sealants 9 06-03-2005 09:28 AM
wiring - water heater Craig Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 12 10-02-2002 06:03 AM
need plumbing map for water pump silverbullet Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 1 09-22-2002 10:13 PM
Airstream History pjtaia Our Community 1 08-24-2002 04:28 PM
Airstream Related List Servers Andy R Link Archive 0 02-22-2002 03:05 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.