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Old 08-12-2018, 09:50 AM   #1
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1976 31' Sovereign
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Zip Dee Wheel Lock Stuck

The wheel lock on our 1976 Sovereign Zip Dee awning won’t unscrew. The guy took it off when we bought it a couple months ago but now it won’t budge. I’m thinking he put it on too tight. I’ve tried all kinds of things including channel locks and a pipe wrench, along with penetration oil. Any thoughts?
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Old 08-12-2018, 11:06 AM   #2
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I'll presume you put some penetrant around the base of the wheel and on the threads. I really like PBBlaster. It has loosened many things for me. Another trick I have used is to put a torch on the nut (wheel) and ice on the stud. The stud shrinks a little and the wheel expands a little. This will not work if the binding is between the base of the wheel and the casting on the arm. In that case just ice the wheel.


When you try to turn it does anything move? This would tell you where it is binding up.

Edit: It looks like the stud is slanted to the right in the picture and the casting on the arm is displaced to the right w.r.t. the base casting. Try to tap the assembly to get the casting on the arm lined up symmetrically with the base casting.


Also try releasing the other locks or tightening them, depending on what the state is when you can't get this wheel loose.



Al
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Old 08-12-2018, 11:14 AM   #3
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Two people...

...needed.

From the pic it appears the wheel shaft may be off-center and jammed.

Have Peep #2 push the support arm in, hard, while turning.(attempting) 😳

Bob
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Old 08-12-2018, 11:15 AM   #4
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It sounds like galling (“cold welding”) that occurs when stainless steel bolt and nut are over tightened. No easy way to untighten, often requires cutting the nut (wheel) off.
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Old 08-12-2018, 12:05 PM   #5
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From your picture, it looks like you have penetrating oil on the bolt threads (good, of course). It does not look like you have put any oil on the aluminum to aluminum contact of the wheel and the arm end. Aluminum to aluminum galling and/or corrosion might be the problem.

Penetrating oil on the aluminum to aluminum contact might help. If it were me, I would apply the oil, let it soak overnight, and then try to turn the wheel. If that did not work, I would judiciously heat the wheel (only) with a torch, let it cool, apply more oil, and try again. I would repeat the process several times if it still did not break loose.

An extension (piece of iron pipe) on your pipe wrench, or a bigger pipe wrench might help.

Tim
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:04 PM   #6
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be careful with heat. I'm sure the wheel is aluminum. It could be cross threaded.
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:31 AM   #7
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I agree with PB Blaster on the threads. Have you tried to tighten it just a tad? I find that many times that will break the "stuck" and allow the oil to penetrate if it's galled on.
Always use "anti-seize" on stainless bolts too; especially with aluminum.
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Old 08-13-2018, 01:09 PM   #8
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Using your picture as a reference, push the arm right to left while someone attempts to turn the wheel. I know I often need to "re-align" the arm for mine to turn.
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Old 08-13-2018, 01:27 PM   #9
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If the bolt is steel and the wheel is aluminium, it could have dielectric corrosion, happens a lot with bicycle seatposts. Typically penetrating lube will not work in these cases
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Old 08-13-2018, 01:37 PM   #10
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I don't think you have much choice except a larger wrench. It doesn't look corroded and the metal is aluminum.
If you have access to a propane torch, heat the area where the threads meet the wheel.
One of two things will happen, it will release and you can take it off and see if it was cross threaded. Or it will snap the pin and you'll replace both parts.
Sheering the pin will take some force.

It's hard to imagine someone cross threading it, because they'd have to use a wrench to get it that far on. But...........
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Old 08-13-2018, 02:01 PM   #11
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Kevio... be very careful not to damage the rivets holding the hardware to the trailer. Much more important than saving the locking 'wheel'.

If you exhaust all options using larger and larger leverage and not tearing the bracket attached to the exterior... cut a slice into the 'wheel lock'... and cut it off. You will need this area to be solid if you plan to keep your awning secured to the trailer.

Lets not even get into the 'leaking' into the interior if you tear this area up with a four foot jack handle and plumber's pipe wrench. That is for the Oil Patch on a Drilling Rig.

It is much cheaper to replace the wheel lock than repair the main bracket with threaded bolt. (I may be tight with my money, but there are times you have to spend $5 to save $100 in damage.)
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Old 08-13-2018, 03:58 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Ice Man View Post
Using your picture as a reference, push the arm right to left while someone attempts to turn the wheel. I know I often need to "re-align" the arm for mine to turn.
BINGO👍...it's happened here more than once.

Bob
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Old 08-13-2018, 04:05 PM   #13
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Same thing happened to me a few years ago. I sprayed a few times with PB Blaster, gave it a knock with a hammer, tried to tighten and untighten, waited a few hours and applied more PB Blaster, waited,.....and it worked.
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Old 08-13-2018, 05:16 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Tim A. View Post
From your picture, it looks like you have penetrating oil on the bolt threads (good, of course). It does not look like you have put any oil on the aluminum to aluminum contact of the wheel and the arm end. Aluminum to aluminum galling and/or corrosion might be the problem.

Penetrating oil on the aluminum to aluminum contact might help. If it were me, I would apply the oil, let it soak overnight, and then try to turn the wheel. If that did not work, I would judiciously heat the wheel (only) with a torch, let it cool, apply more oil, and try again. I would repeat the process several times if it still did not break loose.

An extension (piece of iron pipe) on your pipe wrench, or a bigger pipe wrench might help.

Tim
My money is on the aluminum to aluminum contact point under the wheel too.
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