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02-17-2014, 07:44 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Dickinson
, North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
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Zip Dee stove vent cover installation.
I'm lucky enough to have the original zipdee replacement stove vent cover and am at a point where I'd like to get it installed. My stove vent pipe protrudes about a half inch above the skin and with that I'm not sure how to make the zip dee cover fit. Should I trim the stove vent or what would be the best way to get this fit up. Thanks for any advice!!
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02-17-2014, 09:26 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilipepper
I'm lucky enough to have the original zipdee replacement stove vent cover and am at a point where I'd like to get it installed. My stove vent pipe protrudes about a half inch above the skin and with that I'm not sure how to make the zip dee cover fit. Should I trim the stove vent or what would be the best way to get this fit up. Thanks for any advice!!
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The purpose of that Zip Dee vent cover was to allow the Zip Dee awning to rest on the side sheet instead of the cover.
Install it so that inside edge where it starts to rise, absolutely touches the vent opening.
That will allow adequate space for the awning, should you decide to have one.
Andy
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02-18-2014, 02:37 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Dickinson
, North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
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Thanks Andy for the reply! I've added more photos of the vent by the vent cover. I do not see how it is possible without either cutting down the vent coming out of the skin or the top of the vent cover but then it would sit too close to the awning rail and probably wouldn't serve the intended purpose. Can you take a look at the attached photos and let me know what you think?
Thanks!
Ryan
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02-18-2014, 04:34 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilipepper
Thanks Andy for the reply! I've added more photos of the vent by the vent cover. I do not see how it is possible without either cutting down the vent coming out of the skin or the top of the vent cover but then it would sit too close to the awning rail and probably wouldn't serve the intended purpose. Can you take a look at the attached photos and let me know what you think?
Thanks!
Ryan
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Ryan.
Cut a little off the top of the cover.
Make sure that the inside of the cover touches the vent.
Andy
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02-18-2014, 04:37 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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Looks like the vent is actually under the rolled up awning? The strip of metal is the awning attachment rail? I ended up putting a patch over the hole for the vent fan and removing the vent fan because it was a source of leaks. Looks like the awing attachment rail was installed too low on the trailer or the fan was installed too high. Are you just now installing an awning? What originally covered the vent?
Perry
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02-18-2014, 04:53 PM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
1965 26' Overlander
Tulsa
, Oklahoma
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 376
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That is a heat looking cover, wish I had one! The fiberglass cover I got from inland last summer already has cracks in it... Looking for a much better replacement !
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02-18-2014, 05:19 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Dickinson
, North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
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Thanks again. It is a beautiful cover I'm just trying to get a handle on putting it in place. There was a 'stock' cover on there that i just took off and I plan on putting an awning on in the very near future so I'm just trying to get things situated before it arrives.
Andy, it seems that I'd have to cut a full 3 inches off of the top of the flat part of the vent cover to get it to clear the protruding part of the vent. I'm thinking that if I do that I will be in about the same point that the original cover would be. I'll try and snap a photo of the original vent cover in place too for reference.
I would like to try and refrain from patching the vent totally as the vent would come in handy at times.
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02-18-2014, 06:14 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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If I can find a scoop like that I may put mine back. My 81 had a poorly designed flap door that leaked and was causing damage to my stove and counter top and the cabinet above. You can cut the top edge of the scoop but is the awning supposed to rest on that scoop as opposed to the side of the trailer? I think my stove vent is about 4 inches lower or the awning rail is higher.
Perry
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02-18-2014, 06:45 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Dickinson
, North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
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You raise a good point. Is the location of the awning rail in the right place on my trailer? Where should it be in relation to that rivet line?
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02-18-2014, 07:07 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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I can look at mine when it gets light outside. Andy should be able to tell us what the proper mounting point should be. Does your awning rail have buck rivets in it? A factory awning will be buck riveted on. My other awnings were installed using pop rivets and the awning rails were loose as a result.
Perry
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02-18-2014, 08:01 PM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Dickinson
, North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
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02-18-2014, 09:14 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilipepper
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Best I can guess is you need to cut about 1 inch to maybe 1 1/2 inches off of the top of the cover.
The top edge of the cover can rest against the bottom of the awning rail.
Andy
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02-19-2014, 08:20 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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I would put it as low as you can and still fit flush to the skin. It would be touching the vent flange at that point. I would cut it so you can use the old vent as a template so you can use the same holes. I still need to go look at mine. Does Zip Dee still make those low profile vents?
Perry
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02-19-2014, 09:03 AM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Dickinson
, North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
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Thanks again, I think after looking at it a little more last night, I might pull the vent fan out and trim a little of the protrusion down. I want to make sure I leave enough of a lip for water that could get in there to make its way around the lip and back out. I really want to use the same holes in the skin to mount this cover for sure.
Zipdee used to make these but it is my understanding the die for it broke and was never replaced. They are pretty hard to come by these days and I was lucky enough to have it included with the box of spares that came with my trailer when I bought it!
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02-19-2014, 09:23 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilipepper
Thanks again, I think after looking at it a little more last night, I might pull the vent fan out and trim a little of the protrusion down. I want to make sure I leave enough of a lip for water that could get in there to make its way around the lip and back out. I really want to use the same holes in the skin to mount this cover for sure.
Zipdee used to make these but it is my understanding the die for it broke and was never replaced. They are pretty hard to come by these days and I was lucky enough to have it included with the box of spares that came with my trailer when I bought it!
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Yes, the mold broke many years ago.
Andy
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02-19-2014, 09:30 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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I am going to look into having dies made to make more of these. Dies are not cheap and that is most likely why they stopped making them because the volume got so low that they would no recover their investment in new dies.
Perry
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02-19-2014, 10:30 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
I am going to look into having dies made to make more of these. Dies are not cheap and that is most likely why they stopped making them because the volume got so low that they would no recover their investment in new dies.
Perry
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Perry.
Forget it city.
Those covers would have to sell for about $ 100.00, if you had a mold made.
Ask me how I know.
The buyers would all most likely say, "ARE YOU SERIOUS" !!!!
Andy
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02-19-2014, 04:54 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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Ok here is where my rail is mounted.
And here is my vent patch. It is held on there with screws and Trempro-635 at the moment. The original vent on my was just a door that flipped open. Problem is that there was no way to seal it from rain blowing in while traveling or in bad storms.
Perry
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02-19-2014, 06:23 PM
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#19
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4 Rivet Member
1965 26' Overlander
Tulsa
, Oklahoma
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 376
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I would pay a $100 for a quality cover like that, I paid about $40 for one that has developed cracks after a year!
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02-19-2014, 06:54 PM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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I expect that is not far off for a low volume part.
Perry
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