Zip Dee Rivets

[Archersfin]

I am trying to get all the leaks fixed on the Airstream. I found one of the brackets that hold the Street side awning loose. Does anyone know what kind of Rivets these are? Will screws hold if I drill them out? What size screw. The Rivet looks like it is split into three parts on the back side. Not a regular blind rivet.
Thanks for any help offered.

[easyride]

Don`t know what that rivet is,if you google Zip Dee,they may have them for sale. Dave

[TinCan Sojo]

3/16 3/4 Olympic rivets. You can order them directly through zip dee by calling their customer service.

[A W Warn]

3/16 Olympic rivets. I have bought them at ODM & Zipdee.
3/16 holes are already too big for screws.

[groundhogy]

I just came to the forum to post the same question. Lol
I asked this question several months ago and was told to go buy the olympic rivets.
You can only get a $25-30 bag of 100 which i bought.

They are way too small. The rivets on the zip dee must be much larger.

Hopefully the correct answer?

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by groundhogy

I just came to the forum to post the same question. Lol
I asked this question several months ago and was told to go buy the olympic rivets.
You can only get a $25-30 bag of 100 which i bought.

They are way too small. The rivets on the zip dee must be much larger.

Hopefully the correct answer?

I think you received the wrong size rivet.
Look at this>
http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?m...roducts_id=376

ps:
Maybe you got the 5/32" rivets, which is a lot smaller, the size used for connecting aluminum skin to ribs.
Like these>
http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?m...roducts_id=377

[featherbedder]

When zip-dee installed awning on my AS the rivets used on arms such as shown in post #1 IMO are not olympics but a larger size of pop type [pull thru rivets] the rivets used can not be shaved as olympics are also they have fairly large size hole & a ridge around hole and not domed on top as olympics do not have these features of rivets shown. I have used many olympics and own a shaver.

[rwnash]

My brackets were originally held on by sheet metal screws. I replaced them with oval head(?) machine screws and threaded inserts. The threaded inserts are like a "blind rivet" that goes into an oversize hole in the sheet metal shell. A handy way to use removable screws instead of rivets - future repairs are easy.

I think I got mine from McMaster Carr. They come in a number of variations including material and sheet metal thickness. I might be able to check and get more information if that would be helpful.

whit Nash

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by featherbedder

When zip-dee installed awning on my AS the rivets used on arms such as shown in post #1 IMO are not olympics but a larger size of pop type [pull thru rivets] the rivets used can not be shaved as olympics are also they have fairly large size hole & a ridge around hole and not domed on top as olympics do not have these features of rivets shown. I have used many olympics and own a shaver.

This is a link to a parts list for a ZipDee awning. Check out item #15 on the list.
http://nebula.wsimg.com/58bea69f88a0...&alloworigin=1

[brad1]

There appear to be a couple of possible correct rivets. Can't wait to hear what actually worked in this case.

[groundhogy]

This is what I see when I pull off the zip dee fittings that sit right on the exterior skin of the airstream.



When looking into the holes that the awning has to be mounted into, I get scared.
So say there are three holes in a row where your mounting hardware (rivet or something) is supposed to go. When mounting the awning, they do aim for the structural aluminum beam that sits below the surface of the aluminum skin, but like only 1 or 1 1/2 of the 3 mounting hardwares actually bed securely into this beam. The others are clinging to the aluminum foil.



Also, the depth of the rivet needed, will be very deep.

The awning fixtures that mount to the outside of the airstream are pretty thick.
I don't have them in front of me, but they could be 0.5 inches. So the rivet has to pass through this material, then also pass well through the aluminum beam material inside the airstream skin.... and THEN the head has to expand and flatten out.


RWnash.... I would love to hear about your solution with the McMaster Carr parts.
Sounds very interesting.


Airstream should be putting backing plates behind were they intend the awning to go. I am ashamed for them.

Of course on the other hand, maybe they actually made an engineering decision to not put a backing plate in.
If you get the 50 mph wind gust with the awning out.... maybe you want it to more easily fly away rather than pull out a 1x1 square foot piece of wall out with it.

[featherbedder]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

This is a link to a parts list for a ZipDee awning. Check out item #15 on the list.
http://nebula.wsimg.com/58bea69f88a0...&alloworigin=1

This link comes up domain for sale, nothing about zip-dee parts list?

[perryg114]

Some of mine have been replace with sheet metal screws which is not good either. I wish I had put some 1/4-20 screws in mine with Nyloc nuts when I had the skins off. Lots of stress on this area. Another reason not to leave the awning up in the wind.



Perry

[thewarden]

Originally Posted by featherbedder

This link comes up domain for sale, nothing about zip-dee parts list?

I just get a blank page.

[A W Warn]

The link works for me. I tried it in both Chrome and MS Explorer browsers.

You can find the information at >
http://www.awningsbyzipdee.com/parts-lists.html

Then click on the part list for Contour hardware, select the one for the year model of Airstream that you want to look at.
On both Contour schematic drawings, part #15 (pre 1989) or part #18 (1989 & after) is a 3/16" "Olympic" rivet.

ps:
Note these are ZipDee's instruction. Airstream may or may not follow those instructions.

[rwnash]

I did a little checking. It turned out that I used 1/4 - 20 pan head stainless steel screws and aluminum rivet nuts. (McMaster Carr lists rivet nuts as a "sub class" under "threaded inserts.") I think these are what I used:

https://www.mcmaster.com/94020a343

Other vendors such as MSC have similar items.

It has been a while since the repair; what is leftover in my parts bin may not be exactly what I used. However, "twist resistant" aluminum rivet nuts are what you need - with the appropriate grip range.

I have a couple of thread repair kits from AVK Industrial Products. The ones with the larger flange are referred to as "AL inserts." (AL refers to the style and not the material.

As I said above, this repair can be undone with ease for caulking. But, it might cause more damage in an accident. ( An orange traffic barrel committed suicide by running into the side of the trailer in a construction zone. The original sheet metal screws simply pulled out. I might have been able to use larger screws but the rivet nuts seemed like a better solution.)

Let me know if I can be of further help.

Whit Nash

[cloud camper]

This is the most useful thread I've found yet - I have the exact same problem to fix on my FC 25. (after removing the top bracket for awning rafter arm) - I have three larger holes in the skin where the aluminum metal screws were that held the curved clamp assembly, now removed and plugged with silicone seal until repairs. I'll be phoning McMaster Carr for sure. Thanks very much

[rwnash]

Cloud,

You might want to spend some time on the McMaster Carr web site. It is probably the best one around for hardware type items. Depending on how you search, a number of similar items will show up. Reading the descriptions can be a real education. Once you find an item, I think you can go to its catalog page and browse. (McMaster Carr still has a massive 4000 page catalog, or at least it used to. I have a couple of out of date ones I still use for reference.)

You might also try MSC, lots of stuff but I am not as handy with their search function.

Good luck
Whit Nash