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Old 07-25-2006, 09:24 AM   #15
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good morning, Fred. LOL here. So far, you would be right. I'll let you know when I get it unfurled.
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Old 07-25-2006, 09:36 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
good morning, Fred. LOL here. So far, you would be right. I'll let you know when I get it unfurled.

The lock is the "black" lever.

That was used in place of the hold down wheels.

When that lock works correctly, it will keep the awning in place regardless how far out you extend the awning, or firmly against the trailer shell, as you may wish.

Andy
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Old 07-25-2006, 10:17 AM   #17
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Extra awning rail...

Zep, Maybe the PO added the extra awning rail as a securing device for an awning that would un-roll when you least wanted it to.... like when going down the highway! He may have had a few close calls with the awning and decided to heck with it and made his own lock! You might want to detach it from the awning housing and see if it will unfurl then. The pop rivets are no big deal to replace if need be. The gap at the fwd end looks like the locking device may have broken and been removed at some point in time. Hard to tell since the old owner is not available to ask. I wouldn't apply too much brute force to the rails before I looked at any stress that you may apply to the parts that you still want to work after you finally get it to open. Removing that extra rail may solve your problem with no damage. Just a thought! Ed
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Old 07-25-2006, 02:16 PM   #18
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Zep Always Has the Best Threads!...

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Old 07-25-2006, 02:26 PM   #19
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Thanks, Klevan. It's my only social grace. At parties I sit in the corner and mumble--you'd see surface integrals and snippets of code circling around my head. Besides, I'm a crappy documenter of my own projects, so this forum is a blessing--at least I'm documenting so I can figure out later what the heck I was doing.
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Old 07-25-2006, 03:09 PM   #20
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Idea!... well No.

For a minute I thought I had the answer. The extra rail is for a screen room... but NO, it's on the cover, not on the awning edge. Tis a mystery.

We await the answer with baited breath (yes it's a pun).

Karma to you.

Paula
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Old 07-26-2006, 07:23 PM   #21
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Well, I just had a strange thought: what if the purpose of the modification is to KEEP the awning from snugging all the way done? What if it was so far out of adjustment that they had a problem unfurling all along?

You need to see one open. The fabric actually is attached to the end of the shiney aluminum cover. What the modification appears to me to be doing is to provide a mechanical stop (against the side of the head).

Maybe they thought that it would keep the fully retracted awning cover from touching the trailer?

You've got a good mystery going here, Zep.
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:50 PM   #22
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I would guess that the extra awning rail is the P.O's idea of a a rain gutter??
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Old 11-03-2006, 02:24 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
Zep,
...you may want to try and remove the section that the new rail is mounted on. Remove the screws at the ends and slide that piece out. You should be able to rotate the arms and roller to the ground at that point. Be careful, it is not a job for one person! It will then look like this:
after a few months doing other things, here's more of the story. A friend and I finally got it open--the "leash" or whatever you call the strap in middle came flopping out and the roller seemed to roll nicely and lots of good spring tension. However, the aft main support arm was full of dust and was stuck--wouldn't extend. After some heavy sledge hammer blows we finally got it to work. Just as verything seemed to be going nicely, the trailer edge of the canopy came out of the track. You can see that it remained attached by a few inches at one end.

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After close inspection, the canopy appeared to have only a folded-over seam on the trailer edge. No rod inside the seam. Now, can anyone answer the following question after looking at the awning rail photo below--are these crimps in the rail a factory standard method of holding the canopy, or was this a PO modification? They are very uniform, but a few have scratches that look like they might have been manually created. I think I know the answer.

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My assessment of the awning goes like this--the original was damaged and removed. The lack of an awning made the PO nuts, so he bought a vintage style awning and for some reason (maybe the Zip Dee, even though damaged, was still on the roller and installed) put an additional awning rail on the Zip Dee wrap-around aluminum cover. Later, the PO got the idea he could put his vintage awning on the roller and did so, but had to crimp the Zip Dee awning rail. And that's why there's an awning rail on the outside of the Zip Dee cover. Comments, other hypotheses?

Zep
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Old 11-03-2006, 02:57 PM   #24
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The pinched area is not correct. This is what you should have http://www.zipdeeinc.com/RV%20Produc...Component.html
A polytube cording which is inside the loop of cloth and slid into the tube. The tube should have a screw at each end to prevent it from slipping out.
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Old 11-03-2006, 04:08 PM   #25
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as I suspected. the crimped channel is at 11 in the diagram. thanks for the link. Is the poly rod available? I might be able to modify the existing fabric to take the rod, since it's in reasonable shape. One thing I think I noticed, but didn't actually measure, is that the inside diameter of the edge tube on the Zip Dee looks to be smaller than the inside diameter of the awning rail tube on the trailer, as well as the one that the PO added. Is there a special rod diameter for Zip Dee? I guess I could ask them....

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Old 08-04-2009, 04:27 AM   #26
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Never did figure out what the extra awning rail was for. But I did get some nylong tubing and fixed the fabric attachment http://www.airforums.com/forums/f442...ric-54609.html

I removed the awning rail and "fixed" the holes with 3/16" solid rivets. If I had some black leather, I could make it my Goth awning cover. Just by luck, as I was doing the fabric attachment fix, I moved this particular slat to the middle position, which makes the line of rivets look like they might actually be something that was intended.

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Old 08-04-2009, 07:25 AM   #27
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Hi Zep,

Thanks for the update here, and the step-by-step on the other thread.

I have a question for you, given your acquired knowledge on this subject. I currently have an old EZ-Awn roll-out awning, which I am told was sold from the Wally Byam store back in the day, and my understanding is that the company was later acquired by Carefree of Colorado.

My awning works fine, but I really like the slatted aluminum cover that the Zip Dees come with, and I'm wondering if there is any way to retrofit another brand of awning with that cover? Up above, you mention that you think the awning rail itself, and the tubular track in the slatted cover, are of different diameters? Did you find this to be a true statement? If so, can you suggest any workarounds? Also, can you think of any other reasons why that slatted aluminum cover might, or might not, be able to retrofit onto another brand of awning?

Thanks!
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:45 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utee94 View Post
...I really like the slatted aluminum cover that the Zip Dees come with, and I'm wondering if there is any way to retrofit another brand of awning with that cover? Up above, you mention that you think the awning rail itself, and the tubular track in the slatted cover, are of different diameters? ... If so, can you suggest any workarounds? Also, can you think of any other reasons why that slatted aluminum cover might, or might not, be able to retrofit onto another brand of awning?

-Marcus
I had to go take a look. The slotted tube in the slats (all of them) is about 1/4" in diameter, maybe 1/32" bigger. The awning rail tube is 3/8"--a 3/8" drill bit is a snug fit. I know you can buy the slats from Zip-Dee, cut to exact length, and I assume you can buy the connecting dohickey that connects the slats to the awning rail, too. In my old awnings, that dohickey is a double extrusion of aluminum. In my new awning, it's a fabric/composite device with the same cross section. Imagine two parallel tubes, one 1/4" andthe other 3/8" diameter, connected by a web about 1/2" wide.

The thing I noticed about the awning rail that's on my70 Caravel (and 72 Overlander) is that the slot on the rail is angled differently than the slot on the rail I took off of the roller cover. Same diameter, just different angle.

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I think your only problem would be to determine if the fabric edge on your current awning fits into the 1/4" tube in the edge of the Zip-Dee slats. Then it would be no problem. The slats aren't cheap, but if you get ones over 8' they have to ship via freight, which is awesome expensive.

Zep

So your
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