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Old 10-21-2015, 09:54 AM   #43
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I had the a switch installed while I was at JS a month ago. Here's what it looks like. An hours labor plus the switch might hurt a little bit but not as much as if it came open. Also I need to get the board upgraded.

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Old 10-22-2015, 05:58 AM   #44
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That is a nice looking installation. I did find the fuse to the awning, #7 on our panel. Looks like they installed the switch to cut the power to the control panel. I will have to take a look at that.
You can contact Zip Dee and they will send you an "updated" box.
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Old 10-22-2015, 11:36 PM   #45
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I also installed the on/off switch but installed one with a LED light so that I would know for certain if the awning had power to it or not.
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Old 10-23-2015, 05:37 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graysailor View Post
I also installed the on/off switch but installed one with a LED light so that I would know for certain if the awning had power to it or not.
did you install your switch in the same location and use the wiring to the control panel? Looks like the wiring is very small gauge to the control panel, haven't attempted to pull connector to determine how it is wired.
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Old 10-23-2015, 08:37 AM   #47
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If there is power to the awning you will have a continuous Green light on the lower right of the panel. An additional indicator would be nice but the round AS switches don't have indicators.
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:46 PM   #48
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I did it a little backwards but I understand it. Red light means that there is power to the awning. Had I thought about it I should have gotten a Green LED switch and then that could mean power to the awning. Any auto parts store has these on/off switches in Red, Green and I think even blue. So in my case I would have a green light on at the power center and a red led light indicating power to the awning.
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Old 10-26-2015, 12:06 PM   #49
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Just got off the phone with Zip Dee service and yes, they have an updated control board for the 2015 Classic Relax awning. Your AS dealer should do this for you but I opted to replace the board myself as the nearest dealer is an hour away.

The procedure to do this yourself is for you to purchase the new board (less than $200), then when you return the old board they will credit you.

I'm usually not a belts and suspenders guy, so I'll replace the board and trust that they've determined the root cause and corrected the issue.
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Old 11-03-2015, 01:52 PM   #50
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OK, here's a follow-up. I just got off the phone with Nate from Zip Dee.

There is an updated board (new firmware, no hardware changes) for the Relax awning. The new firmware makes a few changes such as lowering the motor current limit and adding a timeout timer to prevent motor burnout. The firmware update DOES NOT address the awning opening issue.

He said Zip Dee is suggesting folks add a SPST (single-pole, single-throw) switch to interrupt power to the control board. He said Zip Dee was working on a new panel design that would incorporate a switch but that the design is still in progress and is not yet available. He said he thought the panel size would grow to accommodate the switch so the new design would only be incorporated into future AS models.

I'm considering adding a temporary switch underneath the sink and then have the option to perhaps incorporate the updated control panel when it is available. Adding the switch seems like prudent step after all.
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Old 11-04-2015, 09:30 AM   #51
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Alano, that's consistent with what our AS dealer is saying too.

Here's some additional information for those that want to install a switch. Our AS shop said there is a multi-wire cable that runs to the wall control panel and they are uncomfortable tapping into that to gain access to mount a switch nearby.

They said it would be a few hours work to route wires from the fuse box to the wall, if we wanted to mount a switch right next to the control panel (I do believe that would be some work). I don't want to pay multi hundreds to prevent the awning from opening on the freeway again. Optionally, just 1 hour labor they could mount a switch on the side of the back couch, close to the entry door (this is a 28), but in that area we store our tool box and we don't want things bouncing around hitting the switch accidentally.

So I told them not to install a switch. I will take the time install my own switch, somewhere, I don't know where yet. Or will keep pulling the fuse in meanwhile..
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Old 11-04-2015, 10:45 AM   #52
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Make sure the switch you select is rated for the maximum current draw of the electric motors when they start up to move the awning. You may find that the minimum is at least a 20 amp rated switch.
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:32 AM   #53
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Good suggestion. One would want any switch to be able to handle more current than the fuse protecting it - that way the switch will never fail from excessive current.

Well, the fuse is rated at either 15 or 20 (can't recall right off) so the board can't be designed to draw any more current than that.
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:07 PM   #54
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I liked Gary's setup with the same Chrome switch as in 2015 Classic so I called Airstream and asked for the same switch. They told me you'll need to contact your local dealer. So I contacted Bay Area Airstream and they looked up the price of the switch, about $75 for the switch and $10 for the frame.

Seems a bit much for a switch so I pulled the switch in my bathroom and located the manufacture. It's made by a German company and impossible to find stock in the US. So I called Airstream customer service, explained the problem, said I was willing to do the installation myself but I'd like the switch at a reasonable cost and they said they would send me one for free!

I'm planning to install it this weekend. Should be a piece of cake. Glad to see Airstream do the right thing.
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:21 PM   #55
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Just a quick update for those wanted the same switch as ghaynes755, the part numbers from Airstream are 512825-01 - Switch Frame, 512827 - Switch Rocker.
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:45 PM   #56
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I usesd a 20 amp rocker switch from my local RV store. If you go to the computer panel, select the plug with two wires, pullback the insulation and tap into the positive wire. Use a couple of crimp butt connectors and you are done. My panel was inside of the cabinet under the kitchen counter so I just placed it near their panel. I use their green LEDs as a power on indication.
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