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Old 05-29-2009, 12:45 PM   #1
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Streetside awning

My new street side awning arrived this morning. This project will have to wait a week or so as I am headed to Atlanta on Sunday morning. This is a window awning that will match the patio and bathroom window awning. Sumbrella has discontinued the fabric design that I currently have and I got the last piece from the last roll that Zipdee had.

BTW, the shipping of this awning was about twice what I paid 3 years ago for the patio awning.
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Old 05-29-2009, 02:50 PM   #2
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That is one shiney rig dude!
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Old 06-14-2009, 07:41 PM   #3
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Thanks for the compliment.

Now it's time to install the street side awning. The first thing to do is mount the awning rail. I have limited clearance from the top of the windows to the bottom of the kitchen exhaust, so finding the correct spot is critical. I marked and then installed a line of blue painters tape. The bottom of the tape will be the top of the awning rail.

Problem #1 - Zipdee does not supply the Olympic Rivets for the awning rail. I used most of my supply in Albuquerque filling all the holes when I removed my old A/C unit. Rivets are on order from VTS and should be here by the end of the week.

Question #1 - I am going to space the rivets 6" apart on the rail. This is more or less what the factory did with my patio awning rail back in 75. Does that sound right to everyone?

Question #2 - Should I pre drill the holes in the awning rail and then drill the holes in the skin once it is in position?

To be continued...
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Old 06-14-2009, 07:58 PM   #4
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i think you need to catch the body ribs.
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Old 06-14-2009, 08:09 PM   #5
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i think you need to catch the body ribs.
I agree, unfortunately mine AS is over 1,000 miles away or I would take a look at it for you. IIRC the ribs are about 24" on center or so, maybe hold the rail up, mark the rib locations, drill the holes for those and then go back and put the intermediates in.

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Old 06-14-2009, 08:24 PM   #6
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Question #1 - I am going to space the rivets 6" apart on the rail. This is more or less what the factory did with my patio awning rail back in 75. Does that sound right to everyone?

Question #2 - Should I pre drill the holes in the awning rail and then drill the holes in the skin once it is in position?

To be continued...
First as many rivets as possible should go into the main bows.

Using 4 inches between the rivets plays it pretty safe, especially on the curb side.

Scatter the holes out and then mount the rail with either Cleco's or #8 screws.

Then drill all the holes you wish.

Completely remove the rail, and remove all the shavings.

Apply a bead of Vulkem sealer on the backside of the rail, making sure that bead covers every hole, and is continuous from one end to the other.

Install the rail with the rivets. Some sealer may sqeeze out of the bottom of the rail, so clean it up asap.

Lastly, install a bead of Vulkem on the top side of the rail joining it to the shell.

If you use Vulkem, it does not set up very quickly, so that buys you time.

If you use Sikoflex, it does cure out in about 1 hour, so you must quickly clean up any boo boo's.

You might check out the curbside awning rail and make sure it has plenty of rivets, and that it's properly sealed.

Andy
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Old 06-21-2009, 12:34 AM   #7
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Back to work on the awning.
Lots of rivets to hold the rail in place. The pneumatic rivet gun makes things a lot easier. I used the dremel to cut off the extra stem and round the heads slightly. I will finish them off later with a rivet shaver.

Then all I had to do is add the arms and install the roller. The travel latch goes on tomorrow...
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Old 06-21-2009, 07:52 AM   #8
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Richard, it looks GREAT!
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Old 06-21-2009, 08:03 AM   #9
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Back to work on the awning.
Lots of rivets to hold the rail in place. The pneumatic rivet gun makes things a lot easier. I used the dremel to cut off the extra stem and round the heads slightly. I will finish them off later with a rivet shaver.

Then all I had to do is add the arms and install the roller. The travel latch goes on tomorrow...
Don't forget the Vulkem on the top side of the awning rail.

Also, your supposed to wear rubber gloves when doing work on the outside of that trailer.

If you get finger prints on that great polish job, the owner will "get you."

Andy
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Old 06-21-2009, 08:34 AM   #10
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Nice job Richard. I agree wiff Andy,rubber gloves a must.The owner will track you down from your fingerprints left in that polish job and KICK YOUR BUTT.
Really nice Richard
Roger
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Old 06-21-2009, 11:14 AM   #11
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Added the all important travel lock this morning. One last photo of both sides deployed.

BTW, I did not intend to do this awning this year, but I found out that Sunbrella had discontinued this pattern. The window awning was made with the last piece on the last roll that Zipdee had in stock.
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Old 06-21-2009, 11:33 AM   #12
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Luckeeeee

Luckeeeee! Gosh! She looks AWESOME! Great job man..
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my new street side awning arrived this morning. This project will have to wait a week or so as i am headed to atlanta on sunday morning. This is a window awning that will match the patio and bathroom window awning. Sumbrella has discontinued the fabric design that i currently have and i got the last piece from the last roll that zipdee had.

Btw, the shipping of this awning was about twice what i paid 3 years ago for the patio awning.
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Old 06-21-2009, 11:34 AM   #13
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It is for a fact! What did you use to shine that baby?
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That is one shiney rig dude!
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Old 06-21-2009, 02:02 PM   #14
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Thanks for the compliments on the trailer.

When I bought the trailer several years ago the PO had polished the trailer and it looked pretty good. The trailer was beginning to dull and the PO told me (several times) that he thought I should polish it again. I thought that he should polish it again since he started it, but I got no where with that suggestion.

Santa brought me a Cyclo for Christmas and I bought the Nuvite. It took a few passes and a lot of hours with different grades, the last being "S". My plan is to hit it again every winter with just "S" to keep it looking good.
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