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Old 06-16-2007, 12:24 PM   #15
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Sounds like you might not have enough load on the springs. I set mine up per the instructions and it rolls up perfectly. You can find the instructions at the ZipDee website.
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Old 06-16-2007, 12:47 PM   #16
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Thanks for the link. We have replaced bent arms in the past but never tackled tensioning. I imagine there must be diligent care taken with that lest it get away from you right? Not sprung as tightly as a garage door spring though? Never mind 2Air's teasing about rolling up with my toes hanging out, I am worried something will reach out and grab my fingers and arm. I could never be a mechanic. Mechanisms scare me. Grandpa had all his fingers cut off on both hands being the shop super and having a jammed diepress release while he had his hands below and was looking up at it.
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Old 06-16-2007, 01:23 PM   #17
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Don't be intimidated. It's only a glorified, over-sized window shade. You should be able to adjust the tension easily following the instructions from ZipDee-just don't let go of it!
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Old 06-16-2007, 01:30 PM   #18
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Even if you let go, it will only slap you a few times before you black out.

Just kidding, it is nothing like a garage door spring. Those things scare the crap out of me.

The tension on the arm is not that great. Two people makes it a very easy job.
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Old 06-16-2007, 02:12 PM   #19
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Ok I think we can do it. It's the don't let go part, lol. As sure as you say that I am thinking, I'll sneeze, a bug will sting me, I'll have a leg cramp...worse I'll have a hand cramp...PRESSURE.OK I'll take a deep breath and muster all my courage and hold on for dear life with a death grip, I'm not kidding either.

I can do shades. Psyching up now... this is a just a bigger version but not too big like a door. I will probably have an emergency exit plan in mind...just in case... Gonna fly now Adrian!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank You!
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Old 06-16-2007, 09:20 PM   #20
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Are there any differences discernable in these two sides to you?

Walbernized half the AS today. First time we did not have it done. Ouch!!! I am a pooped pup! Sealant all over the place, skin so soft to the rescue, filament corrosion erupting in too many places. I'm with the thought that Walbernize is too thin and not much of a coating, however it was easy and did take out some surface imperfections I did not think it could. How do you all clean the hot water heater cover? I definitely want the stainless cover. All I managed to do with a variety of products is to make the aluminum black come to the surface. I am lost on what to do here. As I am on which of the corrosion products to use, ACF 50, Boeshield T-9, or Corrosion X.

7 week? old rims are sprouting corrosion again. HELP!!!!!!!!!! I need to close my eyes again without seeing my investment corrode and rust before my eyes. Next stop = fiberglass!
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Old 06-16-2007, 10:05 PM   #21
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pictures as promised

My front awning arms will hang up fairly often, so I use the strap in the photo to keep them clear and in line while retracting the shade. Easy workaround
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Old 06-16-2007, 11:51 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasafari
My front awning arms will hang up fairly often, so I use the strap in the photo to keep them clear and in line while retracting the shade. Easy workaround
Hi, you seem quite knowledgeable for such a young Airstreamer.

Hi, Carol. Lots of good ideas here; Have you thought of makeing an extension for the awning pull strap so you don't have to just let go when it gets near the top?
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Old 06-16-2007, 11:54 PM   #23
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Thanks Wasafari. Pictures are great, looks like a good promo. I'll buy one. Like the model too. Have to track some webbing down, used the string again. I think the dog crate came with an ample amount but the rafting one is cooler. And I thought we only needed work arounds for software. Your son (?) makes it even look fun!

Robert, the length of the strap is okay, it's just if I follow the directions to only leave 6 inches of fabric, the tension must be too light to pull in the shield at that point, it is up in the air billowing all stretched out and the fabric is rolled close, can't describe it well and don't want to duplicate the behavior, but it didn't look good and I think it scratched the Airstream. I lost the tab just because I was concentrating on the string, I'm one of those types that can't talk and chew gum at the same time.
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:26 AM   #24
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make that walk and chew gum
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:26 AM   #25
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I'm one of those types that can't talk and chew gum at the same time. [/quote]

Come on Carol, women were born to multitask; At least that is what I heard.
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:35 AM   #26
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I looked at the pictures. The main difference to me is that one is left and the other is right It never occured to me, but I always unhook the support arm before I deploy the awning and hook it on after the awning is rolled up. I must be missing something?
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:12 AM   #27
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We have been leaving the support arm on its peg until the awning is rolled all the way out, makes it reachable to put on the roller bar placement from there. I think that is the procedure. But certainly will go see if that would be the better way, especially to roll it up. But I am pretty certain I do it the way they did it at the dealer, Zip Dee, and the factory. I suppose we all just do it because the book tells us to.

But now I am wondering if that is just a travel position. I'll hunt down the book, but I will still see if you haven't hit on an answer. Thanks
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:44 AM   #28
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The rafter arm should be on the stud on the main arm when you unroll the awning as well as when you stow the awning. If nothing else it keeps the rafter arm from banging against the trailer side. The following link is the Zipdee proceedure for deploy and stow.
Awnings By ZipDee
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