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Old 09-03-2004, 08:39 PM   #1
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1964 24' Tradewind
Big Bear Lake , California
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 183
Awning Rail Seal? & Awning

I'm trying to button up for the winter and I checked out the awning rail. It appears to be factory installed, as bucked rivets were used, and there's not a lick of sealent whatsoever. My finger nail will pry up the rail, however the rivets are tight. Its pains me to think that water has been making its way past those rivet holes down the wall to the floor for 40 years on a factory install.

Also the awning was secured in place with snaps, running down, back and back up to the rail. This must be an old school means, but can you travel with an awning secured in this fashion? I'm skeptical on that one. There's also no appearant seal on the snaps.

Any body know the true story?
Ed
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Old 09-23-2004, 10:57 AM   #2
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1964 24' Tradewind
Big Bear Lake , California
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 183
My Own Thread

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Originally Posted by Wardinbb
I'm trying to button up for the winter and I checked out the awning rail. It appears to be factory installed, as bucked rivets were used, and there's not a lick of sealent whatsoever. My finger nail will pry up the rail, however the rivets are tight. Its pains me to think that water has been making its way past those rivet holes down the wall to the floor for 40 years on a factory install.

Also the awning was secured in place with snaps, running down, back and back up to the rail. This must be an old school means, but can you travel with an awning secured in this fashion? I'm skeptical on that one. There's also no appearant seal on the snaps.

Any body know the true story?
Ed
Hi Ed, it's Ed
This is fun, I've been talking to myself for years and now I'm answering back.
I figure that the snaps were for a screen room. The row running along the bottom was probably also for screen to keep "things" from flying in from underneath the trailer. The snaps have been removed and sealed up with Olympics w/ a dab of Vulkum. The rail is gonna get a Vulkum or Parbond taped bead whether it needs it or not. Haven't worked with the Parbond yet so I'll try it out.
I've put the pencil to the pad and have designed a tension structure for an awning. You know, tent fabric and fiberglass/graffite rods. I'm having trouble accepting that this is an orginal concept and am wondering if anyone has seen or is familar with a light weight high tech solution for an awning. (Any CalPoly SLO Archies out there?!) This notion also brings to mind that it's been done, and either didn't work, lacked market acceptance or was replaced with a Costco 10' Eazy-Up canopy!

If you know the answer, you get a prize.
EdEd
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:16 PM   #3
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1960 17' Pacer
Peterborough , Ontario
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Hi there,
Just looking into getting a new awning rail myself. Your bucked rivets are waterproof. As the rivet deforms (forming the back head of the rivet) it also expands plugging the hole. The real strength in the bucked rivet is in that expansion (so I'm told.)
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:37 PM   #4
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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Never hurts to seal that top edge with parbond and maybe even Trempro-635 over that. My main awning was bucked but the other three were just pop rivets. The pop rivets work loose and will leak. My street side awing rail got ripped off in a tornado and it might have been a good thing that it came loose instead of breaking something. Minor damage other than than the rail.

Perry
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