Is it hard to replace the awning material on a carefree awning. The awning is on a Argosy and is 14ft long. If anyone has some instructions I would appreciate that so I can determine if I want to tackle this project. Thanks Davis
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1991 Airstream Excella 1000 34ft
1994 Chevrolet Crew Cab dually 2WD 6.5td
2004 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 2WD 5.3
WBCCI # 10219 Georgia Unit
AIR # 5131
I know this is an old post, but I wanted to say thanks for posting the links. I have to put my awning back on soon and had NO idea of how many turns I needed on the spring.
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Bob Fowler
Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
Zeppelenium had a post with part numbers and drawings for the ZipDee a few months ago, think it showed some safety tricks on that. Sounds potentially amputatingly interesting.
I know this is an old post, but I wanted to say thanks for posting the links. I have to put my awning back on soon and had NO idea of how many turns I needed on the spring.
Bob, when you get the awning put back on, be aware you have to lift the rear arm slightly to get everything to seat in place for travel. It took me quite a while to figure out to unlatch the rear handle, lift slightly, and finish rolling the awning.
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Terry You repair things with tools. You fix things with a hammer.
AIR#2611
I know this is an old post, but I wanted to say thanks for posting the links. I have to put my awning back on soon and had NO idea of how many turns I needed on the spring.
What type of awning do you have, and how long is it? I'll look it up in my tech manuals and get the # of turns for you............
PS: If it's a Carefree, you have to remove the arm and use a Vise-Grip on the end casting to wind it. You then pin the spring to freeze it so you can replace the casting ito the arm.
Zip-Dees wind with the arm ON. It helps to have another person around to hold the ZD away from the coach while you wind to allow you some room for the arm as it passes by the outer skin. We don't want no stinkin' scratches there....now do we?
Bob, when you get the awning put back on, be aware you have to lift the rear arm slightly to get everything to seat in place for travel. It took me quite a while to figure out to unlatch the rear handle, lift slightly, and finish rolling the awning.
I learned that the hard way back in September when we were on our way home from Bat Cave. I find that the front latch id actually harder to handle than the rear. I bought some new hardware a couple of weeks ago to repair the seized knobs on the rafters. Finding the right parts was actually easy!
Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
What type of awning do you have, and how long is it? I'll look it up in my tech manuals and get the # of turns for you............
PS: If it's a Carefree, you have to remove the arm and use a Vise-Grip on the end casting to wind it. You then pin the spring to freeze it so you can replace the casting ito the arm.
Zip-Dees wind with the arm ON. It helps to have another person around to hold the ZD away from the coach while you wind to allow you some room for the arm as it passes by the outer skin. We don't want no stinkin' scratches there....now do we?
It's an A&E 8500 Series (I don't have the exact info here). It's a 20' trailer, so the awning is about 10' (once again, I don't have all the info handy).
Liz and I are going to order new fabric this weekend from our local RV supplier (Fitzgerald's RV in Middletown, NJ). The existing awning is probably OK for another season or two, but we might as well replace the fabric now since the awning is already off the trailer. Besides, I think the trailer deserves new fabric to go with her new paint!
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Bob Fowler
Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
I learned that the hard way back in September when we were on our way home from Bat Cave. I find that the front latch id actually harder to handle than the rear. I bought some new hardware a couple of weeks ago to repair the seized knobs on the rafters. Finding the right parts was actually easy!
It's an A&E 8500 Series (I don't have the exact info here). It's a 20' trailer, so the awning is about 10' (once again, I don't have all the info handy).
Liz and I are going to order new fabric this weekend from our local RV supplier (Fitzgerald's RV in Middletown, NJ). The existing awning is probably OK for another season or two, but we might as well replace the fabric now since the awning is already off the trailer. Besides, I think the trailer deserves new fabric to go with her new paint!
It is indeed a 10 foot long 8500, and I replaced the fabric in 2003 0r 2004. I forget the exact date, but a search for the "first aid kit" thread will show post #1 of that thread made the date the fabric was replaced. You also may find the knobs in the trailer, in a bin somewhere, if they didn't get tossed out, I bought a pair and never installed them.
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Terry You repair things with tools. You fix things with a hammer.
AIR#2611
It is indeed a 10 foot long 8500, and I replaced the fabric in 2003 0r 2004. I forget the exact date, but a search for the "first aid kit" thread will show post #1 of that thread made the date the fabric was replaced. You also may find the knobs in the trailer, in a bin somewhere, if they didn't get tossed out, I bought a pair and never installed them.
03-22-2004 - a blood sacrifice to the Aluminum Gods?
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Bob Fowler
Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
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I find that the front latch id actually harder to handle than the rear. I bought some new hardware a couple of weeks ago to repair the seized knobs on the rafters. Finding the right parts was actually easy!
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