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Old 11-01-2013, 12:35 PM   #1
Meg
 
1960 22' Caravanner
Sonoma , California
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 22
Wet sanding using a AIr Compressor?

The compound F9 did not cut through the oxidation.
Now will try wet sanding with 800 g paper.
What do you think about using a sander, DA, 6'' with an air compressor?
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Old 11-01-2013, 01:09 PM   #2
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1966 24' Tradewind
Albuquerque , New Mexico
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Please Don't

You could do irreparable damage to the skin of your Airstream.
I hope others will chime in.
There is so much info available on cleaning and polishing, please do your research.
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Old 11-01-2013, 01:20 PM   #3
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Not advised wet sanding should be done by hand always.800 paper is to coarse,Start with 1500
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:05 PM   #4
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Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Quote:
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Not advised wet sanding should be done by hand always.800 paper is to coarse,Start with 1500
^
X2

HALT way too course I started with 600 and finished with 2000 on these....left them as is, no polish.

Bob
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:05 PM   #5
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Polishing is not for the impatient...

But, if you don't want to sand w/1500 or finer by hand, try using a rouge or tripoli bar with your compounder. It'll cut through the oxidation - but it can also go too far. So take it easy, if you burn through the Alclad, the only way to "fix that" is replace the panel.

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Old 11-02-2013, 11:08 AM   #6
Meg
 
1960 22' Caravanner
Sonoma , California
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The pits are deep. Tom from Perfect Polish came over to take a look because I have been ordering compounds with him, and yes the pits are deep. NuviteF9 is not doing it and either is 3M Super Duty.
So the choices came down to:
1 wet sanding - I tried wet sanding over a square foot with 1000 and it did smooth out the pits. The color of the pits - little dark grey spots- remain. And the place that I sanded is pale and dull.
How do I know if I took off all the Alclad?

In the mean time I have been talking with car body shops that often use air compressors...which lead to the idea of using 1500 g with an air compressor so that I can limit the work on my good shoulder!
I do not want to cut the oxidation too much and remove the ALclad,which I am not sure what that would look like.

2) Pink and white emory bars may be better. Some say Black then brown then F9... What do you think? some say use a sisal wheel, others say use a grinding type buffer- not sure what those are.


But First...How do I know when sanding if the Alclad is OK.

(geez I wish there was a camp to learn this)

Meg
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:03 PM   #7
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Yellow Jesco wheel and green bar. Then doubled up sewn cotton wheels with a Nuvite…your choice…G-6 or G-7…even C. Then Cyclo with S. Like Sherry said….not for the impatient.
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:58 PM   #8
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Meg,

The camp is the Vintage Trailer Academy in Albuquerque in June.

http://vintagetraileracademy.com/

Bill

Quote:
Originally Posted by MegHighway1 View Post
The pits are deep. Tom from Perfect Polish came over to take a look because I have been ordering compounds with him, and yes the pits are deep. NuviteF9 is not doing it and either is 3M Super Duty.
So the choices came down to:
1 wet sanding - I tried wet sanding over a square foot with 1000 and it did smooth out the pits. The color of the pits - little dark grey spots- remain. And the place that I sanded is pale and dull.
How do I know if I took off all the Alclad?

In the mean time I have been talking with car body shops that often use air compressors...which lead to the idea of using 1500 g with an air compressor so that I can limit the work on my good shoulder!
I do not want to cut the oxidation too much and remove the ALclad,which I am not sure what that would look like.

2) Pink and white emory bars may be better. Some say Black then brown then F9... What do you think? some say use a sisal wheel, others say use a grinding type buffer- not sure what those are.


But First...How do I know when sanding if the Alclad is OK.

(geez I wish there was a camp to learn this)

Meg
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