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Old 09-28-2015, 10:52 PM   #1
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Walbernize

In hopes of reducing the frequency that I need to repolish my trailer, I decided to apply a coat of Walbernize. The instructions say to apply with a cloth saturated with Walbernize, let it dry to a haze, the buff it out. So tonight I applied a coat to nearly half the trailer, and went in the house for supper. When I was done with supper, I came out to buff it out. I was using a new lambs wool buffer head on the high speed buffer. It took a lot of effort to remove streaks in the Walbernize and get back to a shiny surface. But just a second after reaching that point, a rough surface would develop in the Walbernize that looked a lot like when the clear coat peels off of an old trailer. So I removed the Walbernize as best as I could with mineral spirits and a lot of elbow grease. That was a lot of work.

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Maybe I applied the material too heavily, or not evenly enough. Maybe the high speed buffer was too aggressive. Maybe I let it dry too long. Maybe my expectations are unrealistic and I shouldn't try to buff back to a high shine. Tomorrow I'll try a small area with different techniques. I thought I'd try a lighter coat, and buff with the Cyclo. If that doesn't work, I suppose I should just use a good car wax. However, this Walbernize stuff looks interesting. It appears to be some sort of acrylic, like floor wax. If I can figure out what I'm doing wrong, I suspect it will do a good job of sealing the surface.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do differently?

Brent
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Old 09-28-2015, 11:19 PM   #2
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Nu Finish once a year car polish works well for me.
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:58 AM   #3
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TETO.....ours is Griot's one step.

Well pleased with all their products...the absolute BEST microfibre I've found.

The MOAS makes washing much easier.

Bob
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:21 AM   #4
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I think you let it dry too long. Also make sure the trailer is dry first.
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:00 AM   #5
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I agree with Mr. Greene. You also did too large an area at once. Treat each panel in turn with the Walbernize. When finished with the second panel, check to see if the first panel has hazed over, and if not, do a third panel, then almost certainly it will have hazed. Don't leave any panel unpolished for more than 15 minutes.

I hate power buffers. They develop too much heat when you are trying (as you would have when you met difficulties) to press hard. The heat caused the effect you noticed. Also the slightest bit of dust blowing in the wind or inadvertently picked up will scratch the surface, although usually you don't notice it until it has done its damage. I always hand polish. Free exercise and it seems to be just as quick to me. It also gives a great deal of satisfaction...... the Zen thing, you know.

Hand polishing: use big sweeping movements with very light pressure at first. You start to "feel" the surface haze stripping off, and you maintain the pressure and speed that gives you that feeling. Rotate the fleece or cloth periodically to change the fibers that are stripping. Use a somewhat harder pressure to get the shine really going. Only very seldom and in local hazy spots do you need to use a really hard pressure. Having done this to the whole vehicle, come back with a nice oversized clean cotton cloth and do a final quick polishing, flipping and turning the cloth as you go, and you will have an amazing finish.
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:06 AM   #6
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Thanks guys,

My problem may be that I automatically reach for the power tools. Sometimes I forget that the simplest approach may be the best. I'll try that when I go home for lunch.
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:16 AM   #7
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I apply the One Step with a Porter Cable Random-O on a foam pad, (sparingly), remove by hand with microfiber cloth. Buff with the R-O & MF pad.
5'X5' area @ a time.

Bob
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thalweg View Post
..... I'll try that when I go home for lunch.

..... and don't do this in the full sun. Shady side, or cloudy conditions, or under cover.
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:43 AM   #9
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..... and don't do this in the full sun. Shady side, or cloudy conditions, or under cover.
It's in the garage
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:32 PM   #10
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Well, I went out to try the suggested methodology. There were some spots that it didn't look like I got all the Walbernize off last night. It turns out that there seems to be a decent coat on the entire area that I thought I cleaned off. It looks pretty good too. I guess the mineral spirits didn't remove the material as much as smooth it out. So, I think I'll just add a second light coat by hand and call it good.
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Old 09-29-2015, 02:46 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
I apply the One Step with a Porter Cable Random-O on a foam pad, (sparingly), remove by hand with microfiber cloth. Buff with the R-O & MF pad.
5'X5' area @ a time.

Bob
Its my understanding the One Step is basically their Paint Sealant with a light abrasive in it, hence "One Step" for a polish and coating.

So I bought the Paint Sealant, I thought the abrasive was bad for the clear coat?

From Griots:
All the benefits of our ultra-durable Paint Sealant combined with a gentle polish to remove scratches, oxidation, and swirl marks while leaving behind protection for your paint for up to one year. Think of it as Paint Sealant with Machine Polish 3 added for a true One-Step Sealant
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Old 09-29-2015, 04:09 PM   #12
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Ted....

I have used both. Started with the standard years ago...switched to the One Step lately, think of it as a Senior move. Just too much effort to clay bar all that aluminum.
What little abrasive is in the OS is not a concern for me, i'll be gone long before the clearcoat.

I consider it toothpaste for aluminum.


Bob
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Old 09-29-2015, 04:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thalweg View Post
Well, I went out to try the suggested methodology. There were some spots that it didn't look like I got all the Walbernize off last night. It turns out that there seems to be a decent coat on the entire area that I thought I cleaned off. It looks pretty good too. I guess the mineral spirits didn't remove the material as much as smooth it out. So, I think I'll just add a second light coat by hand and call it good.
I have a question, Are you applying this wax to your 1962 Tradewind? If you are does it have clear coat or is it polished aluminum? If it is bare aluminum that may be your problem. I believe that Walbernize and all auto waxes are meant to go on clear coated or panted surfaces not bare metal.
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Old 09-29-2015, 04:30 PM   #14
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Here is a video of how to do it simply and easily :-)

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