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Old 04-28-2005, 03:32 PM   #1
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Talking Stripping the clear coat 75 Trade Wind

I know there are a ton of stripping/polishing threads. I am starting a new one in an attempt to document time and results on this phase of the restoration. I have not been able to read enough about this, and I don’t think I could so here we go. I am using Por 15 Stripper. At first I did a test on the refrigerator door. Following the instructions, I sprayed on a “full wet coating”. And let it set about 15 minutes. Then apply another coat. It stripped off like goop. So the next area, I applied it and waited about 30 seconds. It stripped off just as well. I scraped it off with a stiff non abrasive material the 3rd pic below was 20 minutes of effort, including washing it down. Then wouldn’t you know it, the sky opened up to a real nice downpour!

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Old 04-28-2005, 03:59 PM   #2
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Oh my gosh, I hope that's not the Argosy!
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Old 04-28-2005, 04:51 PM   #3
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guess we'll know where to find you for the next month or so...

I'm sure it will look extremely by the rally!
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Old 04-29-2005, 07:31 PM   #4
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Talking 1/2 stripped

After 3 hours of stripping we are 1/2 done! It is coming off really well. Oddly enough there is NO clear coat on the roof and 1/2 down the radius. This will make polishing more of a challenge to remove the oxidation. Best results come from spraying on the stripper, let it set for less than 1 minute, scrape it off, repeat, then spray it wet and use "gray" Scotch Brite to remove the residue.

What I have found NOT to do! DO OT ATTEMPT TO SPRAY THE STRIPPER ON IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT!!! It dries so fast it is near impossible to get off.

We should have time to finish srtipping tomorrow!
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Old 04-30-2005, 05:50 AM   #5
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Depends on what system he chooses-

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
guess we'll know where to find you for the next month or so...

I'm sure it will look extremely by the rally!
A drum polisher or wet sand and buff seems to take more like a week, but being that he's had exchanges with the "guru's" of the "only" system thats accepted here- it may very well take a month- hopefully not, as a 1975 covered in clear coat is protected from the elements, and should polish up quite easily without wet sanding. I saw the 1953 that was painted on top, and with VERY dull and pitted skin, and it came out GREAT in a matter of days- plus it cost MUCH less in materials...

Good luck!
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Old 04-30-2005, 06:10 AM   #6
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What are your thoughts on painting the top? Seems that these thihgs get quite warm inside. I do not have AC and most likely will not need it up here in the fridgind north (probly shouldna said that) I'm always open to ideas! BTW, lotsa reasons I went with the cyclo. I restore ole cars too and from what I've seen the no swirl finish is REALLY nice
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Old 04-30-2005, 07:38 AM   #7
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based on what I saw-

We're in Fla, the trailer was from AZ, and the removal of that paint was supposed to have taken as much time as polishing the whole trailer- looked like it was a pain- I'd avoid it.
Disclaimer- I ONLY SAW IT, I NEVER PAINTED OR REMOVED IT MYSELF BUT LISTENED TO AN AIRCRAFT PROFESSIONAL REGARDING IT.

Rather than something that no one else in any other industry really uses, since you've been into old cars, surely you've seen 3M perfect it and finesse it lines- including the swirl free foam pads that EVERYONE uses on paint. and I also assume you've had experience in wet sanding paint jobs as well. I know that its very easy to burn and ruin paint from my own experience, as well as the paint to show swirls if the wrong system is applied, and the 3M is expensive, but well accepted and used in every paint and body shop I've ever worked in or hired to work on my cars. Black paint obviously shows the swirls worse than other colors

Any chance you'll try something else than "the norm" or is it set in stone? I see from your posts that you're in NH and close to another huge supporter of that process- lengthy as it may be...
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Old 04-30-2005, 07:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
After 3 hours of stripping we are 1/2 done! It is coming off really well. Oddly enough there is NO clear coat on the roof and 1/2 down the radius.
Not odd at all. When I owned that beauty the roof and radius were so badly oxidixed that I removed the clear coat and began a polishing process. What was needed to complete the job correctly was someone with the ambition and talent that you have. I am so happy the trailer found its rightful owner.
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Old 04-30-2005, 11:00 AM   #9
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent
Not odd at all. When I owned that beauty the roof and radius were so badly oxidixed that I removed the clear coat and began a polishing process. What was needed to complete the job correctly was someone with the ambition and talent that you have. I am so happy the trailer found its rightful owner.
Nice! I missed that piece of info! Whew... You should see it Kent! it is looking really spiffy. I have been experimenting on the AS and the Argosy to see what are good techniques to use. I’ll be using a 6” Buffer prior to using the Cyclo. Using a 3M compound to get at the first step of polishing.

There is a note I must add. I have a brother (Bob) who has been in Auto body for 30 years. He is very progressive in his thinking. We will be trying several ways to get a good, easy finish. I have stripped 80% of the clear off. For a total of 4 ˝ hours, using 1 gallon Por Strip. (Bob encouraged me to give this a try)

Today we tried some 3M with a 6” and an area with the Cyclo. The Cyclo is defiantly for finish only. Not aggressive enough to do the firs pass. Then we used the Nuvite (C grade) I dipped my finger in and made 4 lines 2 inches long 3 inched apart. You can see the results below. Seems the way to go. What I am struggling with right now is how to get the black oxidation left behind from the compound. Soapy water does not work well. 3M have polish works well with the Cyclo and a soft cloth draped over the pads. Still too much effort and we will be looking at an alternative.



Take heart. We are looking at a liquid application that is used on big rigs. Once I get a test done with that I’ll post more on it and what it is.

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Old 04-30-2005, 12:10 PM   #10
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Did you compound with the 3M?

Hey - a brother after my own heart! I too am using 3M medium grit on my stripped Argosy (with the wool pad on B&D 1/2" drill). Worked great on the not so oxidized sections, but not enough cut on the bad stuff. Anyway you do it, have fun! P.S. - where gloves, goggles or glasses, and keep your mouth shut - that stuff goes EVERYWHERE. With the liquid (3M) stuff, I just put a dab in, pushed it around a bit with the bonnet (drill off), and then used the drill to swirl it around into a 2x2 or so section. Then I proceeded to "compound" the area. Worked like a charm! But you are right, I'm pretty sure I'd get a "more pure" shine with the nuvite. If it wasn't so rainy here, I'd try some more aggressive compound (I'm going to try hard grit next).
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Old 04-30-2005, 01:00 PM   #11
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My understanding is that to get the black stuff off without creating more scratches to be polished further, you need to use mineral spirits and a soft rag.
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Old 04-30-2005, 02:27 PM   #12
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Something else to consider is if your getting lots of black stuff, you may be using too much compound - also try to keep a spray bottle of water handy to keep it moist - not sure about 3-M, but works with Nuvite/Rollite. Another trick to get the black stuff off you can use flour on a rag

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Old 04-30-2005, 05:20 PM   #13
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There is a new Nuvite out that cuts better than the old, sorry can not remember the # but Airstream Dreams will have it. I saw a demonstration at a VAC rally last summer where they cut through 60 years with two passes. The black stuff was removed by polishing and keeping your pads clean. This demonstrator never used water, he forbade the use of water.
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Old 05-01-2005, 06:02 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent
There is a new Nuvite out that cuts better than the old, sorry can not remember the # but Airstream Dreams will have it. I saw a demonstration at a VAC rally last summer where they cut through 60 years with two passes. The black stuff was removed by polishing and keeping your pads clean. This demonstrator never used water, he forbade the use of water.
I have some Nuvite II to try out, have to say it works REALLY well. We tried cleaning the residue with plain water and lightly soapy (dish) in a spray bottle. Not satisfied with either so we used some 3M hand glaze I had from my 62 Chevy and that works the best so far cleaning the black off.
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