The advice I got - which I know everybody has their own way of polishing - was to use the spray bottle while polishing - to keep the polish moist since it has the tendency to dry out with the buffer and in the sun. Hope I was not misleading above - did not mean to suggest it would remove the black residue.
This is a trick since the last time I polished last year - have not tried it yet, but plan to this year when I "update" my polish job.
The advice I got - which I know everybody has their own way of polishing - was to use the spray bottle while polishing - to keep the polish moist since it has the tendency to dry out with the buffer and in the sun. Hope I was not misleading above - did not mean to suggest it would remove the black residue.
This is a trick since the last time I polished last year - have not tried it yet, but plan to this year when I "update" my polish job.
Ken J.
Yes, that worked pretty good to keep things moist and flowing. This is not like doing paint on a car, seems easier. For the first pass we used Super Duty Rubbing Compound
I'l try mineral spirits next pass to clean the black off. Looks like I'll be going through some old cloths so get a rag supply!
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'77 20' Argosy MH (Peanut)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
2006 GMC Sierra 5.3 V8
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
Member of VAC www.balrgn.com www.balrgn.com/Airstream.htm
Something else to consider is if your getting lots of black stuff, you may be using too much compound - also try to keep a spray bottle of water handy to keep it moist - not sure about 3-M, but works with Nuvite/Rollite. Another trick to get the black stuff off you can use flour on a rag
Ken J.
Hey! I just looked at you Photo Album, NICE job on your Trade Wind!
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'77 20' Argosy MH (Peanut)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
2006 GMC Sierra 5.3 V8
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
Member of VAC www.balrgn.com www.balrgn.com/Airstream.htm
Thanks for your kind words on my Tradewind - that picture was taken after it was though a big rain storm - so it was actually kind dirty. I just noticed that some of my pictures are gone hmmmm. This summer I get to polish the 58 - ohhh boyyy!
And yes, you will think you should buy stock in a rag company - I buy those big packets of kitchen hand towels at Walmart for $5
I'm trying to stay up to date Did you use the supercut, followed by Nuvite for the cyclo? Did the supercut do a good job getting a "shiney" pure surface? I still get a bit of milky haze with the medium cut, making me think I need to cut harder to get to the "pure" unoxidized metal.
I know, I could roll over some green rouge, but ....... I'm trying to stick to the 3M stuff.
Thanks!
Marc
I'm trying to stay up to date Did you use the supercut, followed by Nuvite for the cyclo? Did the supercut do a good job getting a "shiney" pure surface? I still get a bit of milky haze with the medium cut, making me think I need to cut harder to get to the "pure" unoxidized metal.
I know, I could roll over some green rouge, but ....... I'm trying to stick to the 3M stuff.
Thanks!
Marc
Take a look at the pic in #9 (sorry shoulda explained what I was doing)
The left side was with a 6" foam disk with 3M 05954, then the Cyclo and Nuvite II Grade: C, On the right of the pic is just with the Cyclo and Nuvite. It did not come in to a mirror finish.
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'77 20' Argosy MH (Peanut)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
2006 GMC Sierra 5.3 V8
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
Member of VAC www.balrgn.com www.balrgn.com/Airstream.htm
I'm trying to stay up to date Did you use the supercut, followed by Nuvite for the cyclo? Did the supercut do a good job getting a "shiney" pure surface? I still get a bit of milky haze with the medium cut, making me think I need to cut harder to get to the "pure" unoxidized metal.
I know, I could roll over some green rouge, but ....... I'm trying to stick to the 3M stuff.
Thanks!
Marc
If you want to stick with 3M and achieve the same as the compound, try some wet sand paper- the finish should come clean and offer a nice shine after you hit it with the next grades- watch the super- its got the look that it may have some strong abrasive in it- I used it with car paint- Imron, and it did what I needed, just beware that the swirls can cause extra work in the future to remove. Good luck...
Thanks Balgrn, my shine is about what you have on the left there. I still have some badly oxidized areas.
Wetsanding.....Ok, I've broken down and purchased some. Can anyone help me figure out HOW to use it? I've got a Mikita palm sander (non-orbital square sander). Do I put the wetsandpaper (1000 grit) on it and then spray the surface with water from a hand sprayer? I'm going to try it on the top, where nobody will be able to see if I really screw it up! I'll try wetsanding, and then compounding with the 3M and let you guys know.
Photos.... I'm getting tired of not being able to show the group what I'm doing. I think I'll just go out and get one this week.
Thanks!
Marc
Get an auto body rubber sanding block. That way you can dip it in a bucket of water to add more water. The water is part of the process. The excess grit and waste material actually helps to continue the sanding process. A power sander will allow you to go way too deep too fast. The process is a purely manual one in my book. I am basing this on the prep done while repainting a couple of my cars. It is also the process that is used once the vehicle is painted to help get that wet glass look. Wet sand, then buff with multiple grits of compound.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
"Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey." -- Fitzhugh Mullan
Wise men talk because they have someting to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
In politics, absurdity is not a handicap— Napoleon
Started to polish the curb side. Looks like this stuff works! 2 passes 5 minutes per 2 x 2 section. Polish untill you can see yourself then repeat. Drape a cloth over it and it comes clean.
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'77 20' Argosy MH (Peanut)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
2006 GMC Sierra 5.3 V8
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
Member of VAC www.balrgn.com www.balrgn.com/Airstream.htm
Ok - can you describe how it looked before the cyclo? I'm trying to decide if my method is anywhere close (I say about 85%) to yours. I think I've got "clarity" as in no milkyness, but yes to swirls. I'm thinking.... well, I'd like to know where I am in the process vs. this looker! I didn't use the wetsandpaper after all. Too afraid.
I haven't done any final passes, so do you have any pics of after compounding and before shining with the cyclo? I definately don't have the mirror shine (but does shine nicely - better than the SS pics I've seen).
Here is a pic of 1/2 done on the curb side.
I did not use any sand paper, I do have a few scratches I may go after with 3,000 grit. Have not decided if I want to live with them or not.
It is real close to a mirror finish. This is only one pass too!
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'77 20' Argosy MH (Peanut)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
2006 GMC Sierra 5.3 V8
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
Member of VAC www.balrgn.com www.balrgn.com/Airstream.htm
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Did you use the supercut, followed by Nuvite for the cyclo? Did the supercut do a good job getting a "shiney" pure surface? I still get a bit of milky haze with the medium cut, making me think I need to cut harder to get to the "pure" unoxidized metal. 
I'm trying to stick to the 3M stuff.
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