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Old 10-30-2007, 09:18 AM   #1
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Stripping a re-coat

I found out my '77 was resprayed, probably in the late 1980's, perhaps in Arkansas or Missouri. Does anyone know what version of the various types of clear coat might have been used on a clear coat re-spray? What about the most effective stripper? I've seen where the different vintages of trailers seem to have different success with different strippers and would like to start with an informed best guess.
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:54 AM   #2
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Are you wanting to strip your trailer down to the bare aluminum? If so, it won't matter what stripper to use...I would start with CitriStrip - which is mild, but works well and if it is ineffective, use Kleen Strip Aircraft Stripper - which is pretty strong stuff.

As I recently found out, there's not really a "selective stripper" - unless you are talking latex over oil base type coatings. Even then the undercoat is usually damaged and needs to be re-done anyway.

So the type of one or multiple clearcoats shouldn't really matter when it comes to removing it...get rid of it all then re-coat or polish as planned.

Shari
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Old 10-30-2007, 11:37 AM   #3
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Yea, its about time to strip it down and polish

I have been watching the threads and seen various results ranging from "I brushed it on for X Hours then hosed it off" to " I had to scrub the re strip". I haven't made a link between the different types of Clear Coat/plasticoat/years used/stripper that works best.
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and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 10-30-2007, 11:45 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV
Yea, its about time to strip it down and polish

I have been watching the threads and seen various results ranging from "I brushed it on for X Hours then hosed it off" to " I had to scrub the re strip". I haven't made a link between the different types of Clear Coat/plasticoat/years used/stripper that works best.
Temperature, length of time the striper is left to set, and amount applied all seemed to interact when I stripped mine back in the spring. I used removal. I would use it again if I were to stip and polish.
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Old 10-30-2007, 11:59 AM   #5
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If you just want the clearcoat gone and quickly - the Kleen Strip Aircraft stripper will be your best bet. It will "eat" everything off...including plastic, so you have to take the lenses & everything off first. It is nasty stuff to work with though...if you are more sensitive to using "safe products" the Citristrip is your next best bet IMO.

I stripped the clearcoat from our '64 using Aircraft Stripper - it works on everything I ever tried it on, but it stings your skin if you get it on you. I also tried it on interior paint & Zolotone in our '56 but being inside, I wanted something with less fumes & being that I was working overhead I didn't want it dripping on me. So I switched to Citristrip & Napier Removal. Both worked well, but I think the Citristrip worked a little better. Both are touted as "safe" - you can stick your hands in them, no problem.

If I was stripping another clearcoated trailer, I would try the Citristrip...but I'm not, my '56 doesn't have clearcoat. If it doesn't work, try the Aircraft Stripper...both are readily available at Home Depot type places unlike the Removal which is mail-order for most.

Shari
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
Are you wanting to strip your trailer down to the bare aluminum? If so, it won't matter what stripper to use...I would start with CitriStrip - which is mild, but works well and if it is ineffective, use Kleen Strip Aircraft Stripper - which is pretty strong stuff.

As I recently found out, there's not really a "selective stripper" - unless you are talking latex over oil base type coatings. Even then the undercoat is usually damaged and needs to be re-done anyway.

So the type of one or multiple clearcoats shouldn't really matter when it comes to removing it...get rid of it all then re-coat or polish as planned.

Shari
Hi Vernon,
from another Vernon...
Shari is right on.
CitriStrip works very nicely..One of several things I liked about it is..You have complete control over it's application flow. It will pretty much sticks to a specific area..It's environmental friendly, since it's a byproduct of orange. Smell nice~! easy to take off, either with a wet rag or, just hose it off..I preferred to wipe it off with a wet rag but, that's me..One container of the stuff goes a very long ways..Depending on the temp outside, leave it on till you see the clear-coating crinkle.(15 to 30 minutes>?)
The Aircraft stripper is very powerful and, it dries quickly. It tends to run because of it's viscosity(flows rate is like water.) Smells awful!~ You really want to be very careful around this stuff..
I had one unpleasnt experience in using it..
Don't do like I did and, sit down on top of the rag soaked with it..
BURNS LIKE HECK~!!
Bottom line is:
They both will do the job for you.
Good luck on your project~!
53FC
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Old 10-30-2007, 01:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 53flyingcloud
Don't do like I did and, sit down on top of the rag soaked with it..
BURNS LIKE HECK~!!
Bottom line is:
<TeeHeeHee> Bottomline...yikes!

Not a good thing!

Shari
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Old 10-30-2007, 01:30 PM   #8
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Talking Cant help myself......

Quote:
Originally Posted by 53flyingcloud
I had one unpleasnt experience in using it..
Don't do like I did and, sit down on top of the rag soaked with it..
BURNS LIKE HECK~!!
Gives new meaning to the term 'stripper'

Quote:
Bottom line is:
Etched in there for life?
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Old 10-30-2007, 04:53 PM   #9
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Red face Yikes..

OMG...
OKAY, Otay
Say what you will..
Nothing hurts like the burning of..stripper!
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:04 PM   #10
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Especially if he sat in it!

Shari
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Old 10-31-2007, 10:15 AM   #11
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Bumm...mer

This thread has taken a very nice turn for the worse!

I am familar with the citristrip so I'll give it a try. I like the comments of controlability. The upper end sections are just starting to flake off so I'm planning on stripping and waxing, maybe use some of the majic purple stuff. The resources (time or $$$) evade me for a full blown polish but I don't want the oxidation to take over. I don't nind spending some money on supplies but I'm not will to pay to have it polished, and I know I don't have the proper time available to do it myself.
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:36 PM   #12
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CitriStrip works almost too good on a re-coated finish.
We did the front cap last night in about :30
The test panel was the Curb side upper front and at 74 degrees, the stripper was curling the clear coat 2 brush strokes behind the application. It peeled off just about as fast as it could be applied.

Now for the big problem...the bare looks soooo good, I'm bound to do the rest as soon as warm weather comes back!
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A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:38 AM   #13
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clear coat

I have a 1992, 31-32 footer, and working full time, so I simply do NOT have the time or place to strip and re-finish.
Can anyone recommend a good commercial place to have this done?
I am on the Gulf Coast of Texas, South of Houston, but would be willing to drive for 2 days to get to a good re-finisher.
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