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scottanlily · 09-10-2006, 10:34 PM

Becky ,

well that may be the key ,is the curing of the liquid glass in the sun . i can't say but ALANSD has had good luck ,but is his motorhome stripped and polished? that also may be the key ,as the water won't get into the bare
aluminum if its clearcoated ,but it could be polished .

Scott

ALANSD · 09-11-2006, 08:22 AM

I no longer own the moho, but the LG was used on areas that were stripped, although not highly polished.

scottanlily · 09-11-2006, 08:36 PM

beckybillrae,

i found this product on the vintage airstream site under restoration resources
called SHYNE ,a 5 year coating they say ,could be the answer for all of us .
check it out ,sounds like the way to go ,ill have to call them myself.This coating allows protection from water on polished aluminum .

Scott

ALANSD · 09-13-2006, 05:41 PM

4 INCHES!! I got the rubrail done around the whole trailer ( it looks great in black - thanks Inland Andy for suggesting it)
And ran out with 4 inches left to cover. Think it will stretch that much if I use a hair dryer on it? I don't.
I have the wider rubrail from my moho, so I cut it down, to see if it will work. That is sick.....I mean 4"....

later--- I ended up making a piece to fit out of the larger motorhome rub rail.Hard to notice any difference.

cookeville34 · 09-16-2006, 04:47 PM

Hi, I have a 1979 31' Soveriegn and was wondering, do you just brush on the stipper and rince it off? Do you have to do anything afterwords? Do you wax it or something?

ALANSD · 09-17-2006, 02:41 PM

if you use removall brand, you can brush it on, wait a few hours and hose or pressure wash ( preferred) off.
Then you will need to wax, or seal it somehow to keep the shine. You might want to polish to your taste, then seal with a good hand applied sealant, or prep and spray on a new clearcoat.
If you seal by hand it will need resealing again in a time frame, dependent on the type of sealant you use. I resealed my last AS every 6 months. Its an easy 1/2 day job.

ALANSD · 09-17-2006, 03:17 PM

here's where I am with mine, stripping done, some polish applied, and new trim beltline, rubrail, striping.

ALANSD · 09-17-2006, 03:20 PM

trim is black, with the red, gives us the GA Bulldog colors.

Fyrzowt · 09-17-2006, 09:05 PM

Looks Great!

ALANSD · 09-18-2006, 05:25 AM

thanks, its a little splotchy where the clearcoat did not fully come off, but is so much better than the dull grey it was a little while ago.
The new stripes and molding really changed the look too, and easy redo.

LI Pets · 10-10-2006, 10:55 PM

Anyone ever try this product Metalwax

Other brands of metal polish contain mostly rouge compounds or other abrasives & mineral spirits. They are like liquid dirt in a bottle. As you rub this abrasive on the metal it wears off the surface to a new layer of metal that shines. The down side is, when the compounds grind on the surface they disintegrate into micro fine particles that get pushed into the pores of the metal below the surface, once this happens you can't remove it The more you polish the more dirt you push into the metal, the worse it gets. When you wash the metal with soap, the soap contains alkaline which is corrosive. Corrosives eat dirt, that is their job, this is how the soap cleans.
When the soap hits the impacted polishing compounds it tries to eat it out of the pores of the metal, but it can't because when you polished the metal you pushed the compounds in deep below the surface. What happens instead is the micro fine compounds absorb the liquid soap, it becomes a sponge & causes the soap to stick to the metal. What you get when this happens is shine decay. The more you polish with liquid dirt the faster this cycle happens, until you have so much left over dirt & soap on the metal you can't polish it anymore. Then you have to re-cut the surface with a buffer and the shine decay starts all over again.

also see

They claim it's used on A/S any truth to this?

ALANSD · 10-11-2006, 10:01 AM

I hve cruised that web site and been somewhat interested, but have yet to hear of someone here using it.
I used the Purple Polish two bottle thing off EBAY it worked well. I now have a botle of Diamond Brite tool box polish from Lowe's recommended by another member here, it does a nice job on areas that are not really really chalky and grey, good for touching up and easy to use. The Purple stuff really cut thru the chalky areas quickly. I have not used a polisher yet on this trailer.

LI Pets · 10-11-2006, 11:17 AM

I ordered a small kit to try it, should try it next week, I'll report back.

Company claims after stripping clear coat, you do about 125' per hour.

ALANSD · 10-11-2006, 05:19 PM

please do, and photos are a great help...

Easyriser · 10-22-2006, 04:57 PM

Once the clearcoat is removed either through general age or weathering should it be re-applied or is the usual practice just to keep it polished?

jurrutia · 11-16-2006, 11:00 AM

Thanks for the info. Inspires me to try the process next spring. JU

ALANSD · 11-16-2006, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Easyriser

Once the clearcoat is removed either through general age or weathering should it be re-applied or is the usual practice just to keep it polished?

if yo reapply the clearcoat the polish will stay "polished". If not you will have to maintain it. Clearcoat is not the easiest thing to work with though. Depending on your equipment and skill level.

A-Merry-Can · 12-18-2006, 07:57 PM

my 2 cents... if it's polished, you have to re-polish it every year... but it gets quicker each time... if you get a scratch... polish it out.

clear coat on the other hand may keep you from polishing (though you still have to wash it)... if you get a scratch, though. you gotta start all over. i'd personally rather polish once a year.

jp