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Old 04-28-2015, 10:50 AM   #351
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jrbug, there is another thread that might help, These Deep scratches
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Old 04-29-2015, 05:20 AM   #352
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jrbug, there is another thread that might help, These Deep scratches
Thanks globie64, I'll take a look at that
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Old 04-29-2015, 07:34 PM   #353
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Someone chime in here who's done their job.
I'm ready to start polishing, the cutting is done.
I've got f7 c and 7
My plan was to compound c, cyclo c then cyclo s

I hear people complaining and skipping c after f7 going straight to s. Saying the c left too fine scratches??

After all these hours cutting cutting and cutting I don't want to mess this up. What did YOU do and are you happy??


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Old 04-29-2015, 07:59 PM   #354
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We polished a 1979 31' and I skipped the C. I compounded with F7, the S with cyclo. The C did leave a worse finish than the F7 in my visual. It probably depends on the motion and speeds used as to whether it is the same for everyone. I am starting on a 1950 and still have all 3 levels still moist so will be testing with C and without since this trailer is in much worse shape than our 1979.

You might just try the C in an area and see what you think of the results. Worst case, just F7 once over if you don't like the results. I think I used C on about 4-5 square feet before I noticed the issue. I then used S with cyclo on both areas and had to go over the C area more passes than the F7 areas so just stopped the C step.

Either way, it will look so much better than before you started. Good luck and let us know which route you decided on.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:27 PM   #355
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What Rpms are you compounding the f7 at? I'm thinking 1250?? Maybe im way off?

Got me worried now that I bought 1lb of c. Should have trusted my gut


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Old 04-29-2015, 11:59 PM   #356
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I was running between 1000 and 1500, touching the center To the right side of the disc to the surface, moving the polisher from right to left. Moving slowly, about a foot every 3-4 seconds. I was doing 2x2-3 foot sections at a time. Depending on the scratches/pitting, some areas needed 2-3 polishing, cleaning sessions. I have most of a pound of C myself still. I think I used 2 and a half pounds (or maybe 3 and a half) total of F7 for the whole 31' including the roof and where you can see on the belly pan. S was much less. Only took one coat of polish with the cyclo and S in most areas, 2 if I screwed up the final pass by something scratching like dust falling into the polish or cloth falling off cyclo. Never really got a good handle on wrapping the cotton on the cyclo. I still have most of a pound of S left so I think I used a little over a pound. Our 1979 wasn't in bad shape and the 1950 is so I believe I am in for a challenge with this one. I look forward to many more compounding sets before I get a decent sheen. I am looking forward to it though, not sure why. I already stripped one of the overhead cabinets and polished it just to get my skills refreshed.
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:46 PM   #357
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Just finished stripping my MH with Eldorado from Vintage Trailer Supply. I could not be happier. The first coat got 98% of the clear coat. Put it on before dark and washed it off with a little 6hp pressure washer at day break. Went back over any areas that i missed or where the stripper was applied too thin and cleaned it up. I used about 2.5 gallons. The Eldorado did not seem to affect the plastic window weeps or the vinyl window gaskets. It did seem to soften the ABS fascia so I stopped there.
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:22 PM   #358
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Very encouraging, Gregsch!

A couple questions, if you don't mind.
1) isn't there a hazard of leaking at the seams when you use a pressure washer?
2) which is the ABS fascia that you mean?
thanks!
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:31 PM   #359
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If you know you have leaks you will have lots of water when you pressure wash. If you think you have leaks you will know for sure when you pressure wash. just try to avoid prolonged spraying of known problem areas. After the stripping is done you can address the leaks with sealant.
The AbS that you need to protect from stripper is the plastic behind the front and rear bumpers on classic MH.
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Old 06-04-2015, 11:55 AM   #360
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Thanks Gregsch, good advice. I'm sorry to be dense, but, as I have a classic MH, I'm especially interested. You mean the ABS is visible? I don't have my MH here but I don't remember seeing a different texture or material there. Or do you mean inside the bumper, so you have to seal a gap well?
TX!
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:38 PM   #361
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The ABS is the plastic piece that contains your front turn signals and wraps all the way around the front bumper. In the rear it is both corners behind the bumper (The center piece is aluminum and thus can be stripped.)
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Old 06-06-2015, 12:24 AM   #362
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Ahhhh, thanks!

Now I get it. 🔓
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Old 06-11-2015, 03:38 PM   #363
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I found with the PPG Eldorado that it melted some plastic stuff, in a nice way, some ancient, sticky goo from old stick-on reflectors, and old insurance stickers. It loosened some other things, like silicone caulk I used in error many years ago, and then missed when I un-caulked and then recaulked with with polyurethane.

I thought the whole process of stripping, and now grinding, would be horrible. It's not my first choice for spending saturdays, but it's actually pretty rewarding, each step. It's interesting too to read others experiences- the front of ours was super pitted, like 60 grit sand paper (the surface) I used 800 grit wet and dry paper, sopping wet, and that knocked it down. I was afraid at first to go through the outer, thin hard layer, but figured that it's mostly gone, with the depth of pitting. Once with the sandpaper, and then a couple of passes with F7 (I then buff it by hand with rags, what do others do?) and I have a sort of shine. My other half keeps oohing and aahing, which is great motivation.
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Old 06-12-2015, 09:16 PM   #364
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Sounds like it is coming along nicely. On our 1979, the front, lower panels were pitted pretty good. I just used the compound and F7 as I did the rest. I had to run a few additional passes but left the pits. It still looked great from about 15 feet away.

On the 1950 We are working on now, I have only polished some of the roof and the c guard trim pieces that went around the lower, front and back. The pitting on the front trim, of course, is much worse due to the age. I had to pound it back into shape due to a lot of dents which bent up the channel. The channel is much thicker than the skin so I used 220 sandpaper after the shaping to get some of the rust stains and deeper pits out. Then scotchbright, then F7. Took a number of passes with F7 so may try a few lights paper grades on the back trim. It is coming out nicely. I'm not concerned with getting al of the pits and small dents out since that is the character but wanted the wrap to fit back on once I get the dents out of the C channel itself and shell off floor replacement.
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