Repolish question- My trailer was highly polished, and as with my other Airstreams, (which were shiny but not as shiny as this one)... I tried Liquid Glass to seal the finish. At least to hold off the repolish awhile.
The two panels I used it on actually got cloudier, and use of tool box polish and a few other metal polishes has not cleared it up to the level of the surrounding panels.
What is up? Do I need to compound these with something even coarser?
When I polished my former trailer to a mirror finish, I too tried the Liquid Glass. I wasn't happy either because of the cloudy film that was left behind. I really didn't find anything that didn't leave some kind of film, since it was like putting stuff on a mirror. I finally settled on Maguires wax. It kept the rain spots off for a while, but you really do have to recoat every 6 months or so. I now have an '86 that I am redoing the outside, but not to a mirror finish. I'm experimenting with the Sharkhide stuff & it seems to be clear. I'm not sure how it would do on a mirror finish, though. Good luck with your mirror finish & try not to obcess! By the way, I would remove the Liquid Glass before trying a wax (not something like Nufinish--wax).
I have tried a few polishes to clear up that one panel, maybe just not getting deep enough into the metal. I am going to try Alcoa heavy duty polish from the Airstream Store and see how that does.
I'm experimenting with the Sharkhide stuff & it seems to be clear. I'm not sure how it would do on a mirror finish, though.
Hey there,
I thought I would jump in and fill you in on applying Sharkhide over a mirror finish.
When Sharkhide is applied over a "mill finish", or an "acid etched" finish, it's absolutly invisible. However, when you apply over a mirror finish, it can some times have a slight "rainbow sheen" like on a soap bubble. This can only be seen at certain angles, distances and lighting conditions. And once you're more than a couple of feet back it's not visible at all. As long as propper prep and application procedures are followed, it's all but invisible.
Naturally I use Sharkhide on all my polished aluminum parts, and although just my opinion, I think the never having to polish these things again is well worth the slight change in the finish.
And as always, if any one has a question about Sharkhide, please feel free to post your question, or contact me directly. I'm allways delighted to help in any way.
Clint
__________________
CLINT BLAND
SHARKHIDE METAL PROTECTANT
FLATWATER INC
618-624-4091 WWW.SHARKHIDE.COM
I am looking at this thread and was wondering if there was a step by step set of instructions in one place for removing the old clear coat, cleaning the now exposed surface, and polishing. I have the pleasure of having a friend of mine want to go down to my 1968 Safari in Baja and live in it and take this on as a project. I told him I would get him lined up with everything he needs (supplies, tools, instructions, etc.) Any help I can get to put it all in one document I could hand him would sure be greatly appreciated!
Hockyrink, Check out Perfectpolish.com web site. You can get all the equipment, polish and tools, rags etc in one place. They are located in California and offer free shipping. Also on their web sit, check out all their drop down menus you'll find complete instructions you can download and print. I stopped using the Nuvite grade S polish. I finish compounding with Nuvite F7 and then make one pass with the Cyclo polisher using F7 to remove swirls. After that I use Turtle Wax clear polymer finish by spraying it on and wiping with a micro towel. I don't get water spots like I did using Nuvite S polish and c;ear polish coats. Charli E
Greetings All,
I have pictures of my polishing project under the Tradewind Forum but thought I would place a few here for anyone who dosen't venture over there. 10 weekends between hurricanes and heat but was well worth it.
Here are some before and after pictures.
Thanks to everyone for all of the tips!
Thanks Much! The wheel covers were cheap enough to get an extra set just in case I throw one. My original manual says the front window is stronger than the windshield of a car. Ever hear that before?
This is one of those posts that should be predicated by "...you're not gonna believe this shi..." - but I have the pics to prove it.
Backround:
Polished (but dirty) Airstream - 10:00 Sunday morning - Beautiful fall day - November 16, 2008, in a Far West Houston Suburb - not a cloud in the azure sky.
Airstream was pulled about 2000 miles since last touch-up to polish job (one month ago) - and not washed since then...the point being that this was not concours polish job - lots of road grime and rain spots.
Outside temp 60 degrees F. The trailer was hooked up to it's Tow Vehicle (3/4 ton Dodge Shortie Conversion Van). Trailer parked North/South with the front facing south - and the front 6 feet under (northward) into a 15' high carport.
What happened - DW was cleaning and airing out vehicles (beautiful day for it) took the plastic floor mats from the Saturn Toad, laid them on the concrete in front of the trailer, and went to Wally World with a friend....
...a combination of reflections from the trailer focused a beam about 6" long and 1" wide strong enough to heat the floor mat to it's bubble point, and the mat was smoking all along the 6" beam of light...I strongly suspect it would have caught fire had I not saw the smoke rising from the floor mat.
I came around the corner the work on the interior of the trailer maybe a short half hour later....and saw smoke...the mat was just below the rear door mounted spare tire for the Dodge Van.
I moved the plastic floor mat from the reflection area while it was still smoking - but I wanted to get a few pics to document what happened.
The sun was being reflected from at least three areas - I followed the reflection up with my hand to:
An area which appears to have a slight concave shape to it - just under the curb side of the front window.
An area just below the collar on the curb side propane tank.
The access door to where the battery was originally mounted on the curb side front of the trailer.
There may have been another area which was adding to the focused heat, but I only had "shadows" to follow with the reflection on my hand, so I am unable to verify other reflective sources.
The mat was on the concrete, about 3' South of the front of the trailer, and about 2' West of the centerline.
Glad it wasn't more serious - just wanted to give a heads up on a potential fire hazard.
Here's a pic of the driveway, the trailer, and the carport. Imagine the traler being moved back about 40' and that is where the could-have-been-catastrophy occured.
The primary reflective area can be seen in the picture above - between the rock guard and the battery access door, just to the curb side of the original Univolt vent in the center of the trailer. It appears (in the picture) to have a sort of a white area bordered by two red lines.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
I have heard stories about shiny aluminum trailers starting fires in the woods because of reflections from the trailer to the leaves and twigs on the ground.
This happened to a friend of ours. They had a new shiny aluminum living quarter horse trailer worth about $150,000. They saddled up left for a ride, a while later decided to go back for something and found the ground around the unit on fire. The shiny aluminum acts as a magnifying glass it reflected just at the right angle on the ground and set fire to it. Lucky for them they came back or it would have been a total loss not to mention the forest fire....Weird
Thats why we haven't polished out AS yet..Yah ..thats it!
Im interested in restoring the skin on my 29' 1976 trailer. I would prefer to apply a clear coat to protect the open aluminum after. What is your take on this? Not to apply a clear Ive heard can lead to problems with spotting and oxidation, especially if the trailer is not stored under protection. Who can do the clear coating?
Im interested in restoring the skin on my 29' 1976 trailer. I would prefer to apply a clear coat to protect the open aluminum after. What is your take on this? Not to apply a clear Ive heard can lead to problems with spotting and oxidation, especially if the trailer is not stored under protection. Who can do the clear coating?
Hey there Gregory,
You're right about not protecting the aluminum with something. Without any protection, your trailer will turn back to ugly in no time. Your options are to wax on a pretty regular basis, or clear coat it. But that's the big question around this forum. Clear coat it with what? As you might guess, I'm pretty partial to Sharkhide Metal Protectant. I've used Sharkhide before to clear coat Air streams, but never bothered to take photo's. I wish now that I had, as well as had a way to keep in touch with the owners so people could see how well it's been holding up. There have been a few folks here on the forum that's applied Sharkhide them selves. You might want to check out their posts. But if you would prefer, I can certainly do the job for you. I'm here in O'Fallon Illinois, about twenty miles east of St.Louis.
If your interested, just let me know. I would be more than happy to help in any way.
Clint
__________________
CLINT BLAND
SHARKHIDE METAL PROTECTANT
FLATWATER INC
618-624-4091 WWW.SHARKHIDE.COM
Most paint strippers have directions on the packaging that list recommended temperatures, some might be ok, though most do better when in the 50-70 degree temps, but you might get a couple warm days you could get some good results this winter in that range.
__________________ Scott & Megan
VAC LIBRARIAN WBCCI 8671
1963 Safari from the 1963-64 Around the World Caravan
I am polishing my Trade Wind, it has been several years since the PO did the initial polish and it has begun to show some areas where the aluminum has oxidized to the point of turning a brownish color. I am using a Cyclo and the plan is to clean it up with a pass or two of Nuvite "C" and then do a finish pass with "S". Some of the more oxidized areas are not clearing up as quickly as I had hoped and still show some color after a few passes. Should I switch to a more aggressive polish in these areas and then go the "C" and "S" route or just keep going with the "C"? After about 6 passes the color appears to be gone.
__________________
Richard Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
Its about time your getting around to polishing that trailer - the PO has been taking notes watching his many many many many hours of sweat and toil fade away
You may want to try F7 - I like it because it starts agressive and smooths out to a fine grit - a great all around polish. In fact there are some who are happy with the results of F7 only - after all you just want it to look good, not be a show model.
Your best 1975 Airstream Friend,
Ken J.
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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