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Old 09-17-2006, 04:17 PM   #127
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here's where I am with mine, stripping done, some polish applied, and new trim beltline, rubrail, striping.
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Old 09-17-2006, 04:20 PM   #128
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trim is black, with the red, gives us the GA Bulldog colors.
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:05 PM   #129
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Looks Great!
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Old 09-18-2006, 06:25 AM   #130
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thanks, its a little splotchy where the clearcoat did not fully come off, but is so much better than the dull grey it was a little while ago.
The new stripes and molding really changed the look too, and easy redo.
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:55 PM   #131
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Anyone ever try this product Metalwax

Other brands of metal polish contain mostly rouge compounds or other abrasives & mineral spirits. They are like liquid dirt in a bottle. As you rub this abrasive on the metal it wears off the surface to a new layer of metal that shines. The down side is, when the compounds grind on the surface they disintegrate into micro fine particles that get pushed into the pores of the metal below the surface, once this happens you can't remove it The more you polish the more dirt you push into the metal, the worse it gets. When you wash the metal with soap, the soap contains alkaline which is corrosive. Corrosives eat dirt, that is their job, this is how the soap cleans.
When the soap hits the impacted polishing compounds it tries to eat it out of the pores of the metal, but it can't because when you polished the metal you pushed the compounds in deep below the surface. What happens instead is the micro fine compounds absorb the liquid soap, it becomes a sponge & causes the soap to stick to the metal. What you get when this happens is shine decay. The more you polish with liquid dirt the faster this cycle happens, until you have so much left over dirt & soap on the metal you can't polish it anymore. Then you have to re-cut the surface with a buffer and the shine decay starts all over again.

also see

They claim it's used on A/S any truth to this?
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:01 AM   #132
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I hve cruised that web site and been somewhat interested, but have yet to hear of someone here using it.
I used the Purple Polish two bottle thing off EBAY it worked well. I now have a botle of Diamond Brite tool box polish from Lowe's recommended by another member here, it does a nice job on areas that are not really really chalky and grey, good for touching up and easy to use. The Purple stuff really cut thru the chalky areas quickly. I have not used a polisher yet on this trailer.
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Old 10-11-2006, 12:17 PM   #133
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I ordered a small kit to try it, should try it next week, I'll report back.

Company claims after stripping clear coat, you do about 125' per hour.
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:19 PM   #134
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please do, and photos are a great help...
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Old 10-22-2006, 05:57 PM   #135
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1996 30' Excella
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Strip & Polish

Once the clearcoat is removed either through general age or weathering should it be re-applied or is the usual practice just to keep it polished?
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Old 11-16-2006, 12:00 PM   #136
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Thanks for the info. Inspires me to try the process next spring. JU
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Old 11-16-2006, 01:05 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easyriser
Once the clearcoat is removed either through general age or weathering should it be re-applied or is the usual practice just to keep it polished?
if yo reapply the clearcoat the polish will stay "polished". If not you will have to maintain it. Clearcoat is not the easiest thing to work with though. Depending on your equipment and skill level.
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Old 12-18-2006, 08:57 PM   #138
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my 2 cents... if it's polished, you have to re-polish it every year... but it gets quicker each time... if you get a scratch... polish it out.

clear coat on the other hand may keep you from polishing (though you still have to wash it)... if you get a scratch, though. you gotta start all over. i'd personally rather polish once a year.

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Old 12-24-2006, 01:45 AM   #139
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Splash...took the plunge!

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I learned that I CAN do this today....the goal is to have it ready for spring.
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Old 12-24-2006, 02:44 PM   #140
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oh NOW you've done it!



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