Sticker glue removal

Silvertwinkie · 07-08-2007, 02:56 PM

OK, I finally broke down and took off the "Thor- America's Best RV Value" sticker off my Airstream. I also took all the (what I consider) ugly pin striping off.

My question is, what have you all used to get any glue from stickers, etc off the skin of a newer (2000 or above) Airstream? I was thinking Goo-Gone, but I don't want to damage the finish or ruin the pre-coated sheets of aluminum and not sure Goo Gone is the best idea.

BamCamper · 07-08-2007, 02:58 PM

I used "Goof Off" on my 2006 to remove the residue from the dealer's sticker.
Came off easily with no damage.

Sugarfoot · 07-08-2007, 03:02 PM

I've used something called Un-du adhesive remover. I've never tried it on an Airstream, but it won't even damage photographs. I can vouch for that. I think I've seen it in Wal-mart, but any office supply should carry it too.

**CanoeStream** · 07-08-2007, 03:05 PM

Vegetable oil is as mild to the clearcoat as I could imagine. It's a Heloise type hint -- rub with a soft fingertip. I don't know if it'd be fun doing a whole pin striping area. I'm glad I didn't have a later '06 25' FB when they offered the wide 75th Anniversary banding.

Silvertwinkie · 07-08-2007, 03:15 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions. I too am glad I don't have the 06 tape on mine, though I have to say, it looks a lot better than the black tape. Ironically, the CCDs never got all gussied up with stripes and I like that look, so I'm off!

I also removed the "LS" lettering and the rear Airstream lettering on the back cap. IMHO, it looks way sharp. I'm considering removing the front lettering and putting a vintage Airstream plate or lettering up on the front cap, but I haven't fully decided what to do yet. I just know that waxing around those pesky letters is a major PITA.

Come to think of it, I actually removed all stickers on the silver body of the trailer except the top front Airstream lettering. I was on a mission today. It was hot out and the stickers just came off every so easily, I just have some glue residue to deal with.

**moosetags** · 07-08-2007, 03:59 PM

I always use old fashioned lighter fluid for glue removal duty. It doeas the job and does not harm any finish I have used it on.

2airishuman · 07-08-2007, 04:53 PM

many threads here on removing letters, decals, emblems, wb #, tar and so on...

search 'adhesive removal' or related terms...

i peeled the 'thor' sticker off...

b4 signing the purschase documents...

the gold LTD lettering came off last year at salem...

between 100 and 104.5...

as many have noticed most of the a/s lettering came off the front cap this spring...

eventually all the lettering will be naturally gone except for the cheesey 'classic' belt buckles that are riveted.

wd/40 will work
many veggie oil products will work (mayo, p/butter)
most citrus oil (goo/goof) products will work...

on older adhesive these things usually need to soak awhile.

after using any of these, the residue still needs to be removed with surfactant/soap...

i use the 2 products pictured, so does a/s...

the sd/20 is not widely available but more 'air friendly' and used every day at the factory and in the service center...

the sd/20 is safe for all interior and exterior surfaces on newer units...

the 3m product really requires gloves and ventilation but is safe for the clearcoat.

a few hardened/baked/petrified bits may be left regardless what solvent is applied...

for these hard bits an auto clay bar like mother's clay or clay magic works great...

cheers
2air'

Silvertwinkie · 07-08-2007, 05:34 PM

Thanks. I'm lookin' into all this stuff. Love the bare alum without all the jazz on it.

vswingfield · 07-08-2007, 05:44 PM

Hi ArgentaTwinkie,

WD-40. Works great, and you probably already have some. I was in Home Depot about a month ago and saw a pen sized WD labeled as label sticky remover, or something like that. I didn’t buy it at the time. I have looked for it several times since and have been unable to locate it. It’s in the store somewhere.

Vaughan

TomW · 07-08-2007, 05:54 PM

Tape a paper towel to the spot. Then soak the paper towel with mineral spirits, and allow it to sit for a period of hours. Don't worry about runoff.

It worked on my Overlander's 37-year-old clearcoat without removing the clearcoat.

Tom

ticki2 · 07-08-2007, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moosetags

I always use old fashioned lighter fluid for glue removal duty. It doeas the job and does not harm any finish I have used it on.

I'll second that.

Mike Lewis · 07-08-2007, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vswingfield

Hi ArgentaTwinkie,

WD-40. Works great, and you probably already have some. I was in Home Depot about a month ago and saw a pen sized WD labeled as label sticky remover, or something like that. I didn’t buy it at the time. I have looked for it several times since and have been unable to locate it. It’s in the store somewhere.

Vaughan

Ive use the goo gone and wd 40 also---the wd seems to work as good as anyhting i've tried---pieman

sunset19 · 07-08-2007, 07:18 PM

Try "Skin So Soft" insect repellent. Works on almost all adhesives.
You'll be suprised on how well it works.

Really great on barcode and price labels stickers.

About the only decals that it would not work on was real good 3M foil type decals. Those are tough.

Try it first on a spot that doesn't show to make sure it won't stain.

Sunset19

CA Streamer · 07-08-2007, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moosetags

I always use old fashioned lighter fluid for glue removal duty. It doeas the job and does not harm any finish I have used it on.

I concur that lighter fluid works great and I use it on my AS with no problems. Lighter fluid is Naptha, which you can buy by the gallon at most hardware stores. Much cheaper than a can of lighter fluid. Naptha is also rubber cement thinner. I also use it in refinishing antique furniture to remove dust from the furniture after sanding. It evaporates very fast and leaves virtually no residue, and doesn't raise the grain in the wood. The Thor sticker was the first one to come off my AS.