Sewing Caswell's Polishing Wheels

[wheelerimage]

I purchased two 1 inch thick polishing wheels from Caswells. I want to sew them together to make a 2 inch thick wheel. I have taken them to 4 different sewing places, including a shoe repair and upholstery shop and a industrial sewing shop. Nobody can sew them together.

Question 1.
Do I even need to attach them together? Maybe if I just tighten the bolt in the polisher that might be enough pressure.

Question 2.
What if I epoxy them together or bolt them together?

Question 3.
Any recommendation on how to sew them together?

Thanks!

[HiHoAgRV]

I have used option #1 and it worked fine.

[wheelerimage]

Thanks HiHo!
It might be warm enough to polish up here in Montana this weekend. So I guess I'm all set.

You're Overlander is looking Awesome, by the way!

[0557]

Jestcoproducts.com has extra thick wheels 6" 8" and 10". 3 inch's thick.
I find these to be great for large areas

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by wheelerimage

Thanks HiHo!
It might be warm enough to polish up here in Montana this weekend. So I guess I'm all set.

You're Overlander is looking Awesome, by the way!

I'm hoping it will dry up here enough to polish before it's too hot in a few weeks!

[InsideOut]

Originally Posted by wheelerimage

Question 1.
Do I even need to attach them together?

No.

Originally Posted by wheelerimage

Maybe if I just tighten the bolt in the polisher that might be enough pressure.

Just tighten the bolt, that's all we did.

Originally Posted by wheelerimage

Question 2.
What if I epoxy them together or bolt them together?

DON'T DO IT! The epoxy will scratch your trailer.

Originally Posted by wheelerimage

Question 3.
Any recommendation on how to sew them together?

Not needed - refer to Q#1.

Shari

[wheelerimage]

I started compounding with the brown bar . It took five hours to do the area behind the door. It's a lot harder to do the 55 it was the 65. I might try to switch to the black bar and see if that helps

[InsideOut]

Originally Posted by wheelerimage

It's a lot harder to do the 55 it was the 65.

10 more years of oxidation will do that! Looking good though!

Shari

[wheelerimage]

Thanks Shari. Good from far, far from good! Ha ha

[Shacksman]

Be carefull with the black bar, you can go through the Alclad layer with it, if used to much.

[wheelerimage]

Ok. Thanks. I go easy with black. I'm surprised how long it takes to cut through with brown

[Frank's Trailer Works]

People will cringe....
Have you considered a flashing agent(acid)? This type of product is used by just about all of the professional polishing services as a first step. It will remove a vast amount oxidation with little effort at all. It is very important to neutralize the acid after it has done it's thing. I mix a large box of baking soda in 2 gallons of water and spray it on twice to be sure that it is all neutralized. The neutralizing instructions do not appear on the label. It is a step I introduced in my shop to be sure the acid was not going to remain behind the rivet heads and seams.

[Frank's Trailer Works]

... and ditto what Shacksman said about the black. I will throw in that it is important to keep the wheel moving. It is possible to heat a small spot and then stretch the metal there too.

[wheelerimage]

Thanks Frank,

I think I will look into a flashing agent. I will go to the auto parts store today. What is a brand that is good?

The skin is rougher than I thought it was going to be. Its covered with these spots that are very difficult to polish out. I will try to get a picture with mu iphone.

[wheelerimage]

Here is a close up picture of the skin. I don't know if you can see the spots. But these are very hard to polish out.