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Old 03-27-2013, 01:19 PM   #1
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Sewing Caswell's Polishing Wheels

I purchased two 1 inch thick polishing wheels from Caswells. I want to sew them together to make a 2 inch thick wheel. I have taken them to 4 different sewing places, including a shoe repair and upholstery shop and a industrial sewing shop. Nobody can sew them together.

Question 1.
Do I even need to attach them together? Maybe if I just tighten the bolt in the polisher that might be enough pressure.

Question 2.
What if I epoxy them together or bolt them together?

Question 3.
Any recommendation on how to sew them together?

Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:26 PM   #2
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I have used option #1 and it worked fine.
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:31 PM   #3
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Thanks HiHo!
It might be warm enough to polish up here in Montana this weekend. So I guess I'm all set.

You're Overlander is looking Awesome, by the way!
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:50 PM   #4
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Jestcoproducts.com has extra thick wheels 6" 8" and 10". 3 inch's thick.
I find these to be great for large areas
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelerimage View Post
Thanks HiHo!
It might be warm enough to polish up here in Montana this weekend. So I guess I'm all set.

You're Overlander is looking Awesome, by the way!
I'm hoping it will dry up here enough to polish before it's too hot in a few weeks!
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelerimage View Post
Question 1.
Do I even need to attach them together?
No.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelerimage View Post
Maybe if I just tighten the bolt in the polisher that might be enough pressure.
Just tighten the bolt, that's all we did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelerimage View Post
Question 2.
What if I epoxy them together or bolt them together?
DON'T DO IT! The epoxy will scratch your trailer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelerimage View Post
Question 3.
Any recommendation on how to sew them together?
Not needed - refer to Q#1.

Shari
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:57 PM   #7
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I started compounding with the brown bar . It took five hours to do the area behind the door. It's a lot harder to do the 55 it was the 65. I might try to switch to the black bar and see if that helps
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:13 PM   #8
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It's a lot harder to do the 55 it was the 65.
10 more years of oxidation will do that! Looking good though!

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Old 03-31-2013, 08:21 PM   #9
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Thanks Shari. Good from far, far from good! Ha ha
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:49 PM   #10
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Be carefull with the black bar, you can go through the Alclad layer with it, if used to much.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:05 PM   #11
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Ok. Thanks. I go easy with black. I'm surprised how long it takes to cut through with brown
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:38 AM   #12
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People will cringe....
Have you considered a flashing agent(acid)? This type of product is used by just about all of the professional polishing services as a first step. It will remove a vast amount oxidation with little effort at all. It is very important to neutralize the acid after it has done it's thing. I mix a large box of baking soda in 2 gallons of water and spray it on twice to be sure that it is all neutralized. The neutralizing instructions do not appear on the label. It is a step I introduced in my shop to be sure the acid was not going to remain behind the rivet heads and seams.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:55 AM   #13
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... and ditto what Shacksman said about the black. I will throw in that it is important to keep the wheel moving. It is possible to heat a small spot and then stretch the metal there too.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:11 AM   #14
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Thanks Frank,

I think I will look into a flashing agent. I will go to the auto parts store today. What is a brand that is good?

The skin is rougher than I thought it was going to be. Its covered with these spots that are very difficult to polish out. I will try to get a picture with mu iphone.
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