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Old 09-26-2013, 02:44 PM   #1
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1966 30' Sovereign
san diego , California
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seasoned polishers please weigh in

Hello all, just started in on stripping and polishing. I'm using a stripper from home depot, and polishing compound. I am not sure that the clear coat is completely removed (upper rear passenger side panel) please see pictures. I cleaned it off with desaturated alcohol. How can I be sure the clear coat is off?
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Old 09-26-2013, 03:54 PM   #2
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If your polishing pad/bonnet turns black you are polishing aluminum.
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Old 09-26-2013, 04:08 PM   #3
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1966 30' Sovereign
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Thanks for that. Good news!
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:53 PM   #4
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In your professional opinion, do you think it may already have been removed? (See picture of the other side)
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:41 PM   #5
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The sun eventually removes all the clear coat, so you may have patches where some clear coat remains and places where it's all gone. Apply some stripper and watch. If it doesn't bubble up, there's nothing left to strip.
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Old 09-26-2013, 10:40 PM   #6
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I have a '72 31' that has been stripped and I encountered spots like yours. I think it is just corrosion from previous clear coat failure.Just apply elbow grease repeatedly ! And then some more...aye yi yi...oh boy.
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:15 PM   #7
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Some polish just on your finger tip will help you to see whether or not there is clear coat...For the age of yours I would bet most of the clear coat is gone starting with the top...but as you get down lower, you will see places where it still is...and like the other says, to apply some zip strip and it will bubble up immediately.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:10 AM   #8
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Your journey will be a very slow, but rewarding process. Square foot by square foot. Just think of it like this. You're saving a minimum of $120 per linear foot. A lot of work to strip and shine but you can see the worth of your labor as you progress.....Go slow and take your time. You can easily burn out and there's nothing worse than a half shined trailer!
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:35 AM   #9
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1964 26' Overlander
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Question... I bought a harbor freight grinder but the polishing wheels are too thick to fit on the grinder... is there an adaptor that I can get for the grinder to allow for thicker wheels?
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:33 PM   #10
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I don't know about pads. I am using vented discs from Caswell,their 1/2" adapter as well. Good luck
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:51 PM   #11
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I don't know if I'm correct here, but your polishing pad looks like it might be one that is cloth that slips around the wheel..... What you need is a wool pad...one that attaches with velcro. The HF ones have a velcro attachment that goes on the stud that comes out of the head of the motor. They also sell wool bonnets that attach to the velcro. That's what you should be using...not the wimpy ones that are cloth with an elastic band that goes around it. You can also get wool pads from Vintage Trailer Supply. Or a good automotive supply dealer has them as well (maguires has some good ones). Just make sure they're wool.


If you're using wheels, that's a totally different animal. They do sell attachments to make your spindle longer. You can get them at Casewell's or Jetsco supply. I used the airway wheels & liked them better than the cloth wheels. I used the wool pads when I polished my Bambi II. All a matter of preference!
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:07 AM   #12
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Well... I started out using a wool pad with a polisher. Did not get results I was looking for... in fact it looked worse after using the wool pad. Im thinking the polisher i was using was not high enough rpm. Only gets up to 1500 and with the 7" wool pad dont think it was maybe half that.
My trailer has been polished previously, however it is showing oxidation and pitting. Want to get a good shine on it. So I bought a 7 inch grinder some yellow vented wheels some loose cotton ones and some stitched cotton ones. Going to try different wheels to see which will give me the best results.
What temp do you think my environment needs to be to polish? I built a bubble around the trailer in a poll building and I'm going to try and heat that up.
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:50 AM   #13
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Too hot/too cold

Friction should provide ample heat for the surface,you on the other hand can decide on the ambient temp.
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:17 PM   #14
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I made the investment of a Makita polisher ($199) with variable speed dial. I polish at 600 RPM so I don't burn the polish or the metal. I polished 26 sq feet in 5 hours. That was with first cut of Nuvite F7, then C, then S. It looks great. I'm afraid here in the communist state of California I'll get a ticket for blinding other drivers! I've read dozens of posts and in the end, the variable speed polisher and Nuvite polishes are the items of choice!
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