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Old 12-02-2014, 07:40 PM   #1
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Seal First? Polish First?

I need some help please. I have picked out the old sealants and I plan on polishing this old 66 Trade Wind. I have a hankering to polish it before I seal windows and seams. But I have read to seal first, and then polish.

I seems to me the polish residue will impregnate the sealants used in seams and windows just turning it black. What is the reason to seal before polish?

Thanks,

David
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Old 12-02-2014, 07:43 PM   #2
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It seems to me the polish residue will impregnate and fill the seams where sealant should be.
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:10 PM   #3
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Are you inside? Because no way are you polishing now in Minnesota

If you are inside then no rain, no leaks, no worries.... Polish away and seal at the end.

If you are not inside, then it depends on which sealant you are planning to use.

I find trempro 635 very easy to polish right up next to with no harm, yes it might go black but then it looks like a shadow line.

Acryl r on the other hand stays sticky for a long time and I suspect that it would gum up and create a mess on the buffing wheels when heated by the polisher.

You could just polish the seam area then seal and go back and do the rest?
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Old 12-02-2014, 09:20 PM   #4
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Im polishing around whatever Im sealing first, then sealing. Sloooooooow process, but im pleased with the results.
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Old 12-03-2014, 05:09 AM   #5
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Thanks folks. Yes, I'm fortunate to be in a heated garage space. I can see how the polish "mud" will get forced into the seams, around rivets and the like. I know lacquer thinner will "thin" the residue and reduce it some, although I usually just use a dry microfiber towel and rub hard, sometimes with a little cornstarch powder. Maybe I can use a little lacquer thinner along the seams, clean well, and wait a month before I seal them up.

It just doesn't seem right to polish over fresh sealant.

David
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Old 12-03-2014, 07:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Thanks folks. Yes, I'm fortunate to be in a heated garage space. I can see how the polish "mud" will get forced into the seams, around rivets and the like. I know lacquer thinner will "thin" the residue and reduce it some, although I usually just use a dry microfiber towel and rub hard, sometimes with a little cornstarch powder. Maybe I can use a little lacquer thinner along the seams, clean well, and wait a month before I seal them up.

It just doesn't seem right to polish over fresh sealant.

David
David.

It's a two way street.

In either case, a clean up after polishing is necessary.

Sealing first means you will have to clean the black residue off the sealer, as well as replace some of the sealer that got damaged.

Polishing first means the gutters must be cleaned before installing the sealers. Fortunately, good sealers such as Parbond and vulkem, will cover some of the black stuff without a problem.

The latter seems a better approach.

But, clean as much of the residue off as you can, just to make the sealers job more positive.

Usually, a good lacquer thinner works well when removing the black material.

Sometimes, after applying the lacquer thinner, applying a blast of air on the dirty seam will help removing it.

Andy
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Old 12-03-2014, 08:27 AM   #7
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Mineral spirits will clean it right up. I use it to clean really well between grades of polish. It's a bit less harsh on the nose than lacquer thinner. I agree with what Shelly said.....
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Old 12-03-2014, 09:08 AM   #8
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Wow, it's so great to have experts like Becky, Shelly, Andy and all helping an old grandpa out. Thanks!

Lacquer thinner is a pretty good solvent, but I find it's better at smearing the mess around that actually removing it. An air blow after cleaning seams would help drive some of the gunk out of the seams. Clean seams will seal better. Lately I've just been rubbing the polished surfaces clean as I can, and then let the residue "evaporate". I find Nuvite does leave a little waxy coating that weathers off with time like wax.

Okay, I'm leaning toward polishing before sealing. I can maneuver the polisher so it isn't "raking" residue into the seams, but rotating away from the seam edge. Might help a teeny bit.

David
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