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Old 03-01-2008, 02:48 PM   #29
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1964 30' Sovereign
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Yeah, I'm thinking I should be looking at buying shares in Nuvite to try and recoup some of my outgoings. I have some of those parallel scratches too, only they are less forgiving and wont polish out completely, I wondered if they were caused by screw heads or the like. I figure they just add to the character ultimately and are just part of the trailers life story. I look at myself and the scars I carry and really, the trailer is in better condition than me, and it is 5 years older!
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Old 03-15-2008, 04:50 PM   #30
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1973 Argosy 26
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Hey guys I am a new polisher too. I have a question??? I am actually going to polish an Argosy and the aluminum is not perfect. There is some scratches on the metal (under the paint) was under the paint but I have Heavy Metal course polish but would I be better to wet sand them with some 1000 grit paper first or what would you reccomend? I don't want to work against myself but I have the time just not the money (hence, the polish and not repainting). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and you trailer looks awesome petethefeet. goodluck
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Old 03-15-2008, 07:36 PM   #31
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Even with the F course nuvite polish (which isn't really that cheap either) I haven't had much of any luck removing any inperfections deep enough for a fingernail to catch the edge of. I'm sure someone more experienced might have a good idea. We finally got enough warm weather today (minus a brief rain storm) that I could polish again, managed to get about 1/3 of the street side, so now just behind the kitchen area above the wheel wells, then of course the rear end caps and about 2/3 of the curbside left, then next grade of polish....
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Old 03-16-2008, 01:17 PM   #32
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Dear Basecamp, I have heard of Argosy's being painted before, but there are a few things to consider before hand from what I have heard. Apparently, the end caps on the Argosy is made of galvanised steel as opposed to aluminum, so I would think there would be some colour difference where the steel finish vs. the ali. Also, because it is painted, it has the potential in its lifetime to have been bogged up or bondofilled and painted over, much like a car body, so you would need to be aware of that before you were to begin the stripping, polishing process. Rumour has it that cost wise, there is not that much in it between a professional paint job and a professional polish ( I realise you are working on it yourself but thought you might want to know). As far as the wet and dry paper goes ( and this point is debateable ),I have used it myself on stubborn places and worked it up to the surrounding areas where necessary, I think for me, the most important thing is trying to keep everything consistent as a whole. I've let go of trying to get every last scratch out of the skin, for me, as I have said before, they are just part of the story of the trailer, any thing really bad I have replaced. If you cannot hide it, emphasise it can also ring true in some cases. Good luck yourself and great to hear you are still progressing Goransons.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:52 PM   #33
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update

been awhile since I've updated due to a busy work schedule and bad weather. I was working on the street side mostly, however ordered a zip dee awning from Inland so I figured I better get all the polishing done on the curb side first.

I'm still on the F cut stuff, and man-oh-man is it bad on the curb side lower half (its all like the bottom of the 3rd picture from about a foot above the middle seam down to the bottom). I've got over 40 hours of polishing on this side alone and nowhere close to being done (still have over the door, below the front side window, and the top of the door).

I'm 2/3 of the way back on the street side, which seems to have less of the pitting. I tried some rear end cap sections and it will go pretty fast. I'm convinced on our trailer at least the areas with the worst pitting were areas that had the clear coat that chipped due dirt and road grime etc. Almost like an aluminum road rash over the years.

Hoping to finish this side tomorrow and start on the rear end cap, but after 6 hours today my arms are jello....
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Old 03-21-2008, 09:28 PM   #34
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Good luck it looks awesome! I guess hard work does pay off. I am getting ready to start on mine. Had to polish a little bit to show the wife the hidden beauty lurking beneath that grimey shell . She was impressed and might even help me... things are looking up!
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:28 PM   #35
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Wow, it's looking great. I can see a lovely brick house in the shining reflection of your beautiful coach!
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:35 PM   #36
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thanks for the pictures and info. ive got to get my gear and material so i can start mine. yours has really put the getu and go in me. thanks!!!!!
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Old 04-02-2008, 10:49 PM   #37
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Polishers: I purchased 1 of the harbor freight 7" polisher/sanders, variable speed and have worn out 3 of the cheap ones, and one of the more expensive ones getting this far. The wool bonnets are under 2 bucks a piece at the store here so I've been tossing them as I wear them out instead of trying to clean them.

PROGRESS/WHAT WAX?

I had our new cyclo show up yesterday and put in 6 hours today with it and the quality of this tool over the cheap polishers is incredible, and a much more even product. I wish I had picked that up sooner, because I think it does a faster job, though the regular polisher (single head) does seem to cut deep pitting faster. I'm pretty much done with the curbside (awning is due here anyday). Anyway, what is the best wax I can get locally to protect this tomorrow after I finish the last pass of S?

thanks!
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:01 AM   #38
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Thumbs up Looking good!

The Nuvite 'S' has a wax component to it...which is the 'last step' in polishing with Nuvite products. We've been using Glass Wax which is no longer available except on ebay - I bought several quarts when it was still available in stores. I've also seen that NuFinish works well and doesn't diminish the shine as some other waxes do.

Shari
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:26 AM   #39
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A beautiful job you are doing. Even when you are tired from the hours of polishing, you can relax and know there is a light at the end of the tunnel. The reward will be the compliments you receive when you camp.
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Old 04-03-2008, 11:46 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goransons
Polishers: I purchased 1 of the harbor freight 7" polisher/sanders, variable speed and have worn out 3 of the cheap ones, and one of the more expensive ones getting this far. The wool bonnets are under 2 bucks a piece at the store here so I've been tossing them as I wear them out instead of trying to clean them.

PROGRESS/WHAT WAX?

I had our new cyclo show up yesterday and put in 6 hours today with it and the quality of this tool over the cheap polishers is incredible, and a much more even product. I wish I had picked that up sooner, because I think it does a faster job, though the regular polisher (single head) does seem to cut deep pitting faster. I'm pretty much done with the curbside (awning is due here anyday). Anyway, what is the best wax I can get locally to protect this tomorrow after I finish the last pass of S?

thanks!
Just wondering, were you using the cheap polishers for ALL steps even up to final polishing? Is that what wore them out so quickly? I've read where some folks use the cheap ones only for the initial "cutting" stages, and then move to the Cyclo for the finish stages, and that seemed to prolong the life of the cheap polishers?

I've never done it so I can't comment, that's just what I remember reading from various posters here on the forum.
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Old 04-03-2008, 12:26 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverhobby
A beautiful job you are doing. Even when you are tired from the hours of polishing, you can relax and know there is a light at the end of the tunnel. The reward will be the compliments you receive when you camp.
Actually, I think you meant to say he can "reflect" on his work and know........
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:21 PM   #42
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I bought a 7" polisher from Harbor freight and some Diamond Brite aluminum polish from Lowes $12) each bottle. purchased two bottles so far and wool bonnets.
am please so far with the progress but have ordered some Nuvite to help with the pitting and filiform and final polishing
here are some before and after photos. i have about 8 hours into it so far. The diamond brite works real well for stripping most of the oxidation
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