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Old 08-21-2004, 11:18 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by austreampete
it is realistically a 20-30 hour job if you get on it and hustle- a long devoted weekend did it for me- but mine is splotchy- I only wet sanded my problem areas and they look better than the rest- can't tell from a distance, but I'll repeat it in a few months.
With all due respect Pete, your post leaves me with the impression that using SS to polish an AS is an easy job. My personal experience says otherwise. I think we need to be careful not to mislead anyone who is thinking of polishing their AS. 20 to 30 hours to achieve a near mirror shine is unrealistic, especially if this is a one person job. A number of factors come into play.
Is it clearcoated? Add significant time, labor and materials to strip.
Severely oxidized? Add more hours.
Dented or scratched areas need extra attention.
Southern Shine is not a miracle product. It will only produce a mirror shine on smooth bare aluminum.
Surface preparation is more than half of the battle.
Using SS is at minimum a 5 step process. Make that 6 steps if the trailer is clearcoated:
1. Thoroughly clean the skin.
2. Wet sand it (add 2 more steps if you're going to use 3 grades of sandpaper or discs)
3. Clean again with mineral spirits, followed with washing again.
4. Buff the SS on.
5. Apply a protective coating of wax. A mirror shine has a short life if not protected.

If clearcoated, stripping would be the first step. That alone took me a good 20 hours and my trailer is just 18' bumper to ball.
I do not mean to be argumentive but aircraft polishing is not a fair comparison for us do-it-yourselfers. They have crews and equipment to do it properly.
Show me a proven way to polish any AS to a nearly perfect shine in 20 to 30 hours and I'll start my own business.
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Old 08-21-2004, 11:33 AM   #102
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by austreampete
Using a buffer, with compound from the expensive suppliers and then a cyclo to remove all the damage you just did- is a waste of time and the creation of a whole new job. Spend $1 on wet n dry paper, get 800/1200/2000 and spend the $10 on a bottle of SS and TRY it on a square ft of the trailer and see what you have- nothing lees than fantastic- and no swirls. The pads cost a little more- but well worth it. Its realistically a 20-30 hour job if you get on it and hustle- a long devoted weekend did it for me- but mine is splotchy- I only wet sanded my problem areas and they look better than the rest- can't tell from a distance, but I'll repeat it in a few months.
Using sandpaper is not a good option since anyone that is not used to its use in most cases they will remove far more than what they even know that they are removing.
The alclad finish on the aluminum is very very thin and it is better to buff it down rather than to try to get shiney fast by using sandpaper.
This could very well be ther reason that your polish job looks splotchy because it will look splotchy if you remove the alclad in areas and not in other areas.
I have never polished an AS, but I soon will. I have however buffed many car finishes and can tell you that taking a shortcut will very often cost you more than you realize.

Just some words of caution
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Old 08-21-2004, 11:37 AM   #103
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I'd like to add to that mirror finish a relative term.

If you take a fairly oxidized trailer without a clearcoat and buff it with just about anything it will look great. Because you have a reference of the tarnished skin right next to it.

I have completely compounded my trailer and *thought* it looked great. Until I saw another AS that was completed with the several step procces mentioned on this site several times.

It has pushed me out the door to keep polsihing again

It's all relative. Good outcome requires a good amount of work.
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Old 08-21-2004, 12:08 PM   #104
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Even Airmark will tell you only to use sandpaper on deep scratches and then very lightly

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Old 08-21-2004, 12:21 PM   #105
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I am so glad !!

To see that others are confirming what I have said for the past several years.
(about using sandpaper and the thickness of alclad)
And so glad that this has not turned into the all out brawl that it has in the past.

DMC
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Old 08-21-2004, 12:57 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnG
Using sandpaper is not a good option since anyone that is not used to its use in most cases they will remove far more than what they even know that they are removing.
The alclad finish on the aluminum is very very thin and it is better to buff it down rather than to try to get shiney fast by using sandpaper.
This could very well be ther reason that your polish job looks splotchy because it will look splotchy if you remove the alclad in areas and not in other areas.
Your point is well taken but wet sanding the entire skin is the only way I know of to create a surface that is ready to polish. Alclad is a coating, much the same as clearcoat/plasticoat. Alclad aluminum was used only on certain model years. Perhaps someone can better define. Where's the harm if removing both coatings if you're repolishing?
You cannot buff alclad away without an abrasive.
I think many folks equate "sandpaper" with a harsh scratchy material, when in fact very fine sandpaper is little more than a polishing cloth which is designed to create a smooth surface.
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Old 08-21-2004, 01:38 PM   #107
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Alclad is a coating much like gold plated costume jewerly is and it makes the aluminum more resistive to corresion. The harm in removing this coating is that you are getting it down to the pure aluminum which is less resistant to corresion and your shine will not last as long.

Even very fine sandpaper can tear away the alclad and get into the pure metal. By very fine I am talking about a 2000 to 3500 grit paper.

If sandpaper is in your thoughts for getting the aluminum ready then you should probably first find out if the AS you have has alclad aluminum on it or not. If it does then I would scrap the idea of using sandpaper. and go to compounding with either Rolite or Nuvite. Either will get the surface down so it will polish exceptionally well.

Just understand that wetsanding with these extremely high grit count papers will get the surface extremely smooth, but it can also damage the alclad coating which is something you really don't want. Compound polishing with the course polish from either Rolite or Nuvite is not nearly as abrasive to the surface as any sandpaper would be so the chances of damaging the alclad coating is dratamitically reduced.

Shortcuts in completing a process usually cost something somewhere, and polishing an AS is a little more than what could be termed a weekend project. I think if you take the extra steps which will cost a little more in both money and time, then you will be pleased with the result.

Lastly, I again repeat that polishing with sandpaper is not a good idea.
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Old 08-21-2004, 02:20 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnG
Shortcuts in completing a process usually cost something somewhere, and polishing an AS is a little more than what could be termed a weekend project. I think if you take the extra steps which will cost a little more in both money and time, then you will be pleased with the result.
I think that sums it up well, John G. Polishing an AS is a very hard job no matter what method you choose. And then the maintenance of the shine is a neverending task.
Airstream owners need to choose between enjoyment of their RV or keeping it in "show" quality. It's very hard to do both.
The time I have spent in the polishing process on my Caravel would have been time better spent in just using and enjoying it. That is why I've chosen to sell it and buy another one strictly for enjoyment, although I'll keep the appearance on the new unit as nice as possible without interfering with my leisure time. Camp or polish? I guess it's up to the owner.
Great if you can do both.
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Old 08-21-2004, 02:46 PM   #109
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The trailer I did was a late 50's- pretty well oxidized- no clear.

I should have wet sanded the whole trailer with 1200 and 2000 grit- and its less damaging then taking a buffer with compound and swirling it on the skin- mis directional scratches are the result should you choose to do it that way- and if you feel its better for your cladding- the .002" of pure aluminum that is applied- please feel free to tear into it.

I worked really hard on mine- and I think that 3 days is enough- any longer and I'd pay someone to do it- if you pay the money for all the high dollar supplies, and then have 100 hours in it, its easier and cheaper to hire someone to come with an Airmark and do it right- not a happy homeowner hobby guy with a cyclo- a real polisher.

I'm far from paraplegic- if you can't run around for 6-8 hours with sandpaper, and rub that baby till its ready for polish, then hit it with SS, Gords, or whatever for 2 days and have a nice shiney trailer- probably better off taking a pro and paying him- like ya said- better to play with than work on.

I seriously have less than 30 hours in it, and its looked great to anyone else who's seen it, and its been awhile and I'll hit it again in a month or 2.

Cheers guys- sorry if the system works better for some than others, but I'm absolutely happy with mine. Peter
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Old 08-21-2004, 08:18 PM   #110
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Cheers guys- sorry if the system works better for some than others, but I'm absolutely happy with mine. Peter
Peter,
The point is to be happy and whatever technique you choose to use is totally up to you. It just seems best to point out that sandpaper can be damaging to those that really don't have the feel of use for it. I'd hate to see a post where someone said that they tried everything and ended up with a crap job because of some information they read here or there. I mean if you really want to cut the corresion fast you could always go and have it acid washed and then work from there, and that would probably be the fastest.

It's really to bad we couldn't just have the thing chrome plated and polish it with Turtle Wax every once in a while. Of course that would take the awl out of one's mind when they saw an Airstream that's all shiney like a mirror, but heaven knows it would be a lot easier to maintain.
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Old 08-21-2004, 08:41 PM   #111
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Peter
It's really to bad we couldn't just have the thing chrome plated and polish it with Turtle Wax every once in a while.
You might be onto something there.
I'm thinking of having mine bronze plated, maybe set a trend. My bronzed baby shoes still look good after a few...ok a lot of years have passed.
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Old 08-21-2004, 10:05 PM   #112
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You might be onto something there.
I'm thinking of having mine bronze plated, maybe set a trend. My bronzed baby shoes still look good after a few...ok a lot of years have passed.
That sounds like a trend that I'd like to see. Bet that would cost more than having a pro do the polish job on one. But is sure sounds nice. I wonder how many would be gold plated if that were possible.........
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Old 08-21-2004, 11:04 PM   #113
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Like I have said before...

Coat the entire trailer with your polish of choice. Rub it all over from top to bottom.

Then pull it thorugh an automatic car wash at the gas station with all those spinning brushes and buffing wheels.

I'm sure you'd get some kind of results then
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Old 08-22-2004, 09:07 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Like I have said before...
Coat the entire trailer with your polish of choice. Rub it all over from top to bottom.
Then pull it thorugh an automatic car wash at the gas station with all those spinning brushes and buffing wheels.
I'm sure you'd get some kind of results then
One result would be the loss of my original Winegard tv antenna.
And, considering that the present economy has driven the price of a quarter to 75 cents, it just isn't a viable option for me.
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Old 08-22-2004, 09:31 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnG
Alclad is a coating much like gold plated costume jewerly is and it makes the aluminum more resistive to corresion. The harm in removing this coating is that you are getting it down to the pure aluminum which is less resistant to corresion and your shine will not last as long. Even very fine sandpaper can tear away the alclad and get into the pure metal. By very fine I am talking about a 2000 to 3500 grit paper.
John G:

My understanding is that the aluminum panels in older Airstreams are made of aluminum alloy that is structurally stronger than pure aluminum, and the alcad is a thin top coating of pure aluminum that provides the "shine" when polished. I don't think alcad makes the underlying panel more resistive to corresion; it is the pure alcad top coat that itself corrodes, and polishing removes this corrosion (or oxidation as I understand it). If carried too far, excessive polishing removes the alcad. Once the alcad is removed, the exposed underlying alloy panel would seem to be more difficult to shine to a mirror finish.

Could you double check you understanding and description of the composition of the alcad top coat and the underlying panel? Our opposite understandings might arise from discussing trailers from different eras. But I thought newer trailers did not have any alcad top coat, and therefore were more difficult to polish to a mirror shine than older trailers. Thanks for taking a second look at your above excerpted statement.
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Old 08-22-2004, 06:34 PM   #116
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Amount of SS

Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
Bob,

What size is the bottle listed at the website you posted? Is it 32oz?

Others,

I saw some mention earlier that it might take 3 bottles for a 31' AS. Does anyone have any recent feedback on the number (and size) of bottles needed?

Has anyone compared SS to Gord's?

Thanks,

Malcolm
Malcom,
We have used 32 oz on one side, however, you might not want to use us as an example, we have been through trial and error on our technique. I think we have it figured out but we will have to order another 32 oz to finish. I think the big thing we had to figure out is to constantly wipe clean the black oxidation. Does everyone agree??? My husband is about to wring my neck. He just wanted to give the Airstream a nice wax and told him all about the mirror finsh process and boy howdee, he is not a happy polisher right now, but he is doing a good job.

I ordered from www.southernshine.net but it took 22 days to finally get my order. I will be trying Bob's web site recommendation for this next order.
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Old 08-22-2004, 07:26 PM   #117
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Malcom,
We have used 32 oz on one side, however, you might not want to use us as an example, we have been through trial and error on our technique. I think we have it figured out but we will have to order another 32 oz to finish. I think the big thing we had to figure out is to constantly wipe clean the black oxidation. Does everyone agree???
Probably my biggest discovery was that I was changing rags far too often. The black goop will turn into a shine if you're doing small sections at a time. The black goo contains the abrasive that is the key to a good shine.
My experience is that each panel can be done with two cloths, a terry to abrade and a cotton to clean.
Different strokes for different folks.
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Old 08-22-2004, 08:51 PM   #118
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Ss

Just ordered my second round of 32 oz from Bob's suggested site. After I sent my order I realized that Bob's "Steeda" site doesn't offer a discount for larger quantities ordered as the www.southernshine.net did. Steeda charges a flat 12.95 for each 8 oz ($51.80 for 32 oz) whereas SS.net charges $39.00 for a 32 oz order. So to sum it up, you pay a higher price for faster service or a nice discount and a good long wait.
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Old 08-22-2004, 09:44 PM   #119
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John G:

My understanding is that the aluminum panels in older Airstreams are made of aluminum alloy that is structurally stronger than pure aluminum, and the alcad is a thin top coating of pure aluminum that provides the "shine" when polished. I don't think alcad makes the underlying panel more resistive to corresion; it is the pure alcad top coat that itself corrodes, and polishing removes this corrosion (or oxidation as I understand it). If carried too far, excessive polishing removes the alcad. Once the alcad is removed, the exposed underlying alloy panel would seem to be more difficult to shine to a mirror finish.

Could you double check you understanding and description of the composition of the alcad top coat and the underlying panel? Our opposite understandings might arise from discussing trailers from different eras. But I thought newer trailers did not have any alcad top coat, and therefore were more difficult to polish to a mirror shine than older trailers. Thanks for taking a second look at your above excerpted statement.
Alclad by definition is; Composite sheet produced by bonding either corrosion-resistant aluminum alloy or aluminum of high purity to base metal of structurally stronger aluminum alloy. The coatings are anodic to the core so they protect exposed areas of the core electrolytically during exposure to corrosive environment.(definition from Kaiser Aluminum Website: http://www.kaisertwd.com/CustomerSer...A_Glossary.asp ) This is a good place to look up the meaning of any term related to aluminum.

I am sure that the alclad picks up corrosion also as do all metals and alloys, and this is why you will find corresion on the shell. The idea is to create a protective barrier to the core by placing a more resistive outer skin on it, and thus alclad.

I believe that I read on the Perfect Polish website that the newer trailers without 2024-T3 Alclad aluminum were not able to be polished. I disagree as any metal can be polished however the best results will be obtailed from non-porous metals.

Perhaps they meant that the Airstreams that were newer would be much harder to polish to a mirror finish and this could be true depending on the aluminum used. Example the Wortihington aluminum LP tanks can be polished and made to look as if they were chrome plated, and I don't think this aluminum is the same type as ever used on an AS.

I'm not sure which year that AS changed the type of aluminum used, nor why they changed. As I understand it the 2024-T3 was much stronger but it does cost twice the price also. This could be why they changed, too bad because they did reduce the quality by using a lessor grade of aluminum at that point. Andy, from Inland RV can probably tell you what year they changed, and what material they changed to, and possibly why.
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Old 08-22-2004, 10:00 PM   #120
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Good advice-

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rog0525
Probably my biggest discovery was that I was changing rags far too often. The black goop will turn into a shine if you're doing small sections at a time. The black goo contains the abrasive that is the key to a good shine.
My experience is that each panel can be done with two cloths, a terry to abrade and a cotton to clean.
Different strokes for different folks.
The way I did it was to leave all the black on until the end of the day and then wipe with a soft diaper with flour- took about 30 minutes for one whole side of the trailer- getting into the seams and around the windows. I do this after the second pass- with the yellow pad. It gets such a good shine that I can actually see fine scratches from the diaper if I apply too much pressure. I could of course use those 3M microfiber cloths, but less pressure seemed to cure it. I average about 6 diapers for the whole trailer. Pretty efficient.
The black doesn't seem to get any harder to remove from one day to the next if you miss some as well- so no stress there. Cheers, Peter
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