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Old 12-17-2003, 09:48 AM   #57
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I am just using 3-m bufing pads. with a makita buffer set on low which is about 1200 RPM.

I have used some wet sanding technics along with a product called met-all to clean surface. I am also using thinner to clean surface after each go over.
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Old 12-17-2003, 04:11 PM   #58
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SS Worked!

Really looks nice so far. How many bottles will you need to finish the entire trailer (I also have a 31' that I want to polish). Thanks,

Montanaandy
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Old 12-17-2003, 06:51 PM   #59
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Wish I could tell you how many more 32 oz on its way I have used 16 oz so far. I ordered it from the maker and it is SLOW to get delivered its been 9 days since he said it was goign to be mailed..... and 16 days since order was placed.
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Old 07-10-2004, 06:54 PM   #60
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14 Hours of SS Polishing

Hello,

After a long time of procratinating on polishing the FC, I decided it was time. I had done a test spot with the Southern Shine earlier as seen in the before picture. Spent about 14 hours over 5 days in the early morning as is getting too hot after 9AM here in sunny San Joaquin Valley of California. I used only Southern Shine which I bought from Stephanie. Did a little wet sanding with 1000 grit in the really bad places. I still have more to do especially on window frames and top of trailer and on front and curb side. But seems to be a fairly good start. 14 hours didn't include about 2 to 3 hours of washing with Dawn detergent and blue and sometimes green 3M scratch pad. I have only about a 1/4 bottle left of SS so ordered a sampler pack of Nuvite which I think includes F7, C and S to see how that works. Hopefully, the 2 after pictures and the 1 before picture show up. Will post more later.
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Old 07-10-2004, 08:31 PM   #61
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On a lesser scale...

I'm also in the process of polishing with SS and am pleased with the results thus far. I just completed the clearcoat stripping today and did a little polishing.
I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible. After stripping, I wet sanded with1,500 grit, cleaned with mineral spirits, washed with Dawn then buffed on the SS. I am obviously not going to get professional results but a nice shiny trailer that I will be proud of.
I envy you folks who didn't have to go through the arduous clearcoat stripping process.
Here's B4 and After thus far:
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Old 07-10-2004, 08:51 PM   #62
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which part of that door doesn't look professional, roger? i'm certainly impressed with the results that both of you are getting.
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Old 07-10-2004, 09:25 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by summerkid
which part of that door doesn't look professional, roger? i'm certainly impressed with the results that both of you are getting.
TY SK
I probably spent about 4 hours just on that door. I am quickly learning that patience IS a virtue.
I'm also learning that too many polishing cloths are not enough.
The 1500 grit did a nice job of polishing out the brush scratches.
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Old 07-11-2004, 08:50 AM   #64
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Polishing is a zen thing..........
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Old 07-11-2004, 10:43 AM   #65
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after I sat on the ground in 92 degree hot sunshine, with only 72% Goergia humidity.....I gazed at the photo of JP's trailer inside, and thought hard about expanding my garage space!!
Anyhow-
I stripped with Klean Strip---got the grey paint off my lower panels, used mineral spirits, then water to wash it down, and now I am using that Blue stuff metal polish by hand which is doing a fine job. I am off to buy a buffer and some 1500 grit for the scratches. Thanks for the inspiration folks!
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Old 07-11-2004, 10:54 AM   #66
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I used Blue Magic when I cleaned up ours this summer-just by hand. I agree, too many cloths are not enough! I didn't have the courage to try the sandpaper and buffer-terrified at the thought of embedding sandpaper scratches or causing some horrific injury to the skin. How does this work? I would go from missing clearcoat to good clearcoat on one side of the trailer and the top surround, (above the awning rails), different areas right next to one another. I really didn't know how to treat it so I just rubbed with Blue Magic on all, getting into that black mess in the non-clearcoat areas. How do you use the sandpaper? Thanks.
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Old 07-21-2004, 09:09 PM   #67
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Starting the buffing process

My husband and I just picked up our 77 Excella 500. Looks like someone started the clearcoat stripping process, then gave up. My husband finished the stripping with the citris stripper which worked really well. Now for the buffing part. I see SS must be the way to go, but please tell me if there is anything that we DON'T want to use. My husband is a "OH, I have it all figured out" kind of guy and if he doesn't give me time to find and order the SS (he is anxious to get started)...is there anything I need to make sure he doesn't use? Will any metal polish work safely?
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Old 07-21-2004, 10:26 PM   #68
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SS is really messy, I mean REALLY messy. Did I say it was messy? Really messy? Don't get me wrong it has its use but it gets everywhere. You'll be green and black from head to toe and so will everything else within a 6 foot radius. There were places on my trailer where Nuvite worked better and other places the SS worked better. Nuvite is alot less of a mess but wasn't the best product in some places like the roof. SS worked wonders there. Did I say SS was really messy?

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Old 07-22-2004, 05:27 AM   #69
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soooo FF

Do you think SS is messy?
How do you clean your rags? I don't think my local laundromat op likes me much.
Maybe I'm just paranoid?
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Old 07-22-2004, 09:13 AM   #70
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Good day guys-
As far as the black that comes off, its been said that its necessary as its the aluminium oxide after its been broken down- which leaves the shiny surface behind.

I use long rubber gloves- wash them off with dish liquid just as I was washing my own hands, take them off and hang them up to dry. I wear a dust mask as well, and goggles for my eyes- it was getting in my eyes when I'd wipe sweat.

I wash out my pads by soaking them in a bucket of soapy water, pressure washing them at the local car wash, and then spinning them dry. I think the main thing is to first wash the trailer, then wet sand and wash again, and then buff with SS on a coarse pad, and then we're using the soft pad- don't know if I'll need the foam for swirls- so far it looks great!
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