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Old 09-06-2004, 05:39 AM   #127
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inch by inch we're shining our 65 AS :(

I don't think I read enough before we started this project. I bought a Dewalt 7/9 polisher and a couple of bottles of Southern Shine and probably 30 rags from the auto dept at Walmart. The wool buffer pad is caked with hardened black goo. I don't understand the method for getting it off. If I put a screw driver next to the buffer while it's running won't it be pulled right out of my hand and possibly injure someone? Like maybe poke my eye out? We are also using Duragloss Metal Polish and Mother's something or other. My husband and I just keep going in circles of using the 3 different products--usually by hand with a rag. The results are OK but very slow and it looks like small water spots some of which are rust colored below the surface. Is there any way these can be removed? No amount of polishibg seems to touch them.

Should I buy the Nuvile products and the spur? Another $100

We don't mind the work but it doesn't look like we expected.

Ann
PS...Anyone want to come to the beautiful wine country in the Finger Lakes of New York and "show us how it's done?"
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Old 09-06-2004, 06:24 AM   #128
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You know

Quote:
PS...Anyone want to come to the beautiful wine country in the Finger Lakes of New York and "show us how it's done?"
Ann,
I WISHED...Sounds like lovely country...
Let's see if we can help you and your husband...
In order to get those imperfections removed,
check this thread for some ideas~
http://www.airforums.com/forum...ead.php?t=6614
personally, the only real way to get down to the level your talking abt..I found you had to do it by hand..It's different for each unit and, what worked for me, might not work for you..
You just have to keep trying until you hit upon the method that works best for you.
Good luck to you both~
ciao
53FC
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Old 09-06-2004, 07:40 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnnZ3
If I put a screw driver next to the buffer while it's running won't it be pulled right out of my hand and possibly injure someone?
Ann,
You take a large flat blade screwdriver in your right hand. Grasp the screwdriver shaft so that your thumb is against the flat portion of the screwdriver blade but not at the end of it and the handle is near your little finger. Holding it firmly and with the buffer spinning you will place the screwdriver blade in so it is parellel to the pads surface and starting from the center you let it work to the edge. When you place it in the center and work out the spinning motion must be away from you and as you draw the screwdriver toward the edge of the pad the screwdriver will be pulling in your hand rather then pushing. If your still unsure as to what I am saying go to any body shop in your area and ask them to show you how to clean the buffing pad by using the screwdriver and while your there ask them about the spur too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AnnZ3
Should I buy the Nuvile products and the spur? Another $100
The spur will not clean away the gum-up as well as the screwdriver does. Actually the sput is more for fluffing out the pad but it does clean it a little too. If your really not experienced with this type equipment then the spur might be a better idea. I really can't tell you about the Nuvite yet as I am trying out Rolite myself. If I am not pleased with it's results then I will go back with the lighter grades of Nuvite to try to get more shine.
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Old 09-06-2004, 07:40 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnnZ3
I don't think I read enough before we started this project. I bought a Dewalt 7/9 polisher and a couple of bottles of Southern Shine and probably 30 rags from the auto dept at Walmart. The wool buffer pad is caked with hardened black goo. I don't understand the method for getting it off. If I put a screw driver next to the buffer while it's running won't it be pulled right out of my hand and possibly injure someone? Like maybe poke my eye out? We are also using Duragloss Metal Polish and Mother's something or other. My husband and I just keep going in circles of using the 3 different products--usually by hand with a rag. The results are OK but very slow and it looks like small water spots some of which are rust colored below the surface. Is there any way these can be removed? No amount of polishibg seems to touch them.

Should I buy the Nuvile products and the spur? Another $100

We don't mind the work but it doesn't look like we expected.

Ann
PS...Anyone want to come to the beautiful wine country in the Finger Lakes of New York and "show us how it's done?"

Hi Ann of the Finger Lakes,

I polished the Flying Cloud with SS. One thing you need to check on is if your TT has a clearcoat as needs to be removed before polishing. Mine did not. Can't remember how you do tell but is posted on website somewhere. Just do a search.

I have listed a couple of posts I made that can give you an idea how to do and before/after pictures of my TT.

Also, if your goal is to get a fairly perfect mirror shine, then the SS method may not be for you. You can see before/after pictures of mine in threads below. But those pictures are from about 10 feet away. Up close you will see some swirl marks or not as shiny spots, etc.

I did buy a rake to clean pads. I think cost about $6.00. Don't think I am an expert at this. Just do search on site for others opinion of doing SS polishing. Don't overuse the SS. A little goes a long ways.

Only use fine sandpaper 1000 or higher on the really pitted spots. However, there are some that say you shouldn't use sandpaper.

The black goo is pretty much all picked up by the buffing pads. The little remaining I removed with Terry Cloth towels and a little mineral spirits.

Read the PerfectPolish website on how they do. Even though I didn't use the Cyclo Polisher or Nuvite, it will give you tips.


Randy
Ex-resident of the Finger Lakes





http://www.airforums.com/forum...692#post108692 Post #60

http://www.airforums.com/forum...4358#post54358 Post #18

http://www.airforums.com/forum...&threadid=6816 Post #3
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Old 09-06-2004, 08:48 AM   #131
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Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Hey Rog
How long did it take you and what would you say the level of difficulty was? Say 1 is a cake walk and 10 is very difficult.
Tim, I wish I had kept track of the hours, but I worked on it in my spare time throughout the summer and I can tell you that I seriously underestimated how long the job would take, especially since it cannot be done in direct sunlight and I didn't have a sheltered or shaded area available.
The clearcoat stripping alone was nearly half the battle. The wet sanding , polishing, buffing and waxing were much harder than I expected, so I'd have to give it a 10 on the difficulty level.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Guess your glad to be finished! After all that why did you sell?
Quite simply, I got carried away and let my ego override my common sense. What I originally wanted was a nice little AS to camp in with minimal investment.
What I wound up with was a "showpiece" with major investment in both time and $ which I can't take into the backwoods areas I like to camp in for fear of damaging it. I also took into account the fact that the new shine was going to require constant maintenance.
If I decide that my next one must be polished, I'd hire the job out to a pro. My time will be better spent in enjoying my AS rather than showing it off, but that's just me.
Different strokes for different folks.
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Old 09-06-2004, 03:05 PM   #132
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I hear ya Rog. It is lots of hard work however one trys to do it.

I also understand about having a trailer to use vs a show piece. My trailer is completely compounded and looking ok. Then this year my kid ran into with is bike while camping ;-(

I started up again with the finishing buffing a couple of weeks ago. Its tough to get some time to get to work on it when you have to do it outdoors.

Did having your trailer polished bring more $$ at the time of sale?
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Old 09-06-2004, 03:40 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Did having your trailer polished bring more $$ at the time of sale?
I don't think there's any doubt that a polished trailer will fetch a much better selling price, but considering the cost of supplies and equipment plus the many long hours of hard labor, I seriously doubt that it's a justifiable procedure just to raise the resale value.
Besides, it's harder to part with a nice shiny trailer after you've worked your butt off on it.
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Old 09-06-2004, 03:44 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnnZ3
The results are OK but very slow and it looks like small water spots some of which are rust colored below the surface. Is there any way these can be removed? No amount of polishibg seems to touch them.

Should I buy the Nuvile products and the spur? Another $100

We don't mind the work but it doesn't look like we expected.
Ann,

I have come to realize the polishing an Airstream is just like dieting to loose weight. Different techniques work for different people and bodies. Just like different techniques work different on Aistream trailers.

Part of the biggest time and energy killer is learning the style that works for you and your trailer.

I searched all I could on the net and I am still learning new stuff.

I'll give you a couple of links you have probably seen already but just read and reread and experiment. No matter how you do it, it's a lot of hard hard work and somewhat expensive depending on the tools you have and the method you choose.

Perfect Polish
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/complete.htm
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Old 09-07-2004, 06:19 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rog0525
Tim, I wish I had kept track of the hours, but I worked on it in my spare time throughout the summer and I can tell you that I seriously underestimated how long the job would take, especially since it cannot be done in direct sunlight and I didn't have a sheltered or shaded area available.
The clearcoat stripping alone was nearly half the battle. The wet sanding , polishing, buffing and waxing were much harder than I expected, so I'd have to give it a 10 on the difficulty level.



Quite simply, I got carried away and let my ego override my common sense. What I originally wanted was a nice little AS to camp in with minimal investment.
What I wound up with was a "showpiece" with major investment in both time and $ which I can't take into the backwoods areas I like to camp in for fear of damaging it. I also took into account the fact that the new shine was going to require constant maintenance.
If I decide that my next one must be polished, I'd hire the job out to a pro. My time will be better spent in enjoying my AS rather than showing it off, but that's just me.
Different strokes for different folks.
I think this is the path we are going. We just bought our AS about 3 weeks ago. I bought it from a man from Louisana who advised us if we wanted to polish it to hire a "laborer." I thought why bother with that..I have my own in house laborer. So I looked on line and fell in love with the polished vintage Airstreams...especially the Caravels. I've ordered blue and while striped awnings and my husband and I are polishing like mad with the fall winds starting to blow here in New York. I am having small thoughts creeping in...imaging us opening the doors to my son's barn and seeing a completly oxidized AS with mouse droppings inside next May.

Thank you all for your help and the web sites.

Marching on....

Ann
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Old 09-07-2004, 09:29 AM   #136
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Gord's

By the way, I did post a mini-review of Gord's polish in the "Gord's Polish Will Work For You!" thread.
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:30 PM   #137
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Southern Shine Is Back

Hi, My Name is Ryan, And i will be rebooting the Southern Shine company come mid July. There will be a website to order the best metal polish out there. you can email me directly at ryanlbogdon@gmail.com Thanks
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:42 PM   #138
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Glad to hear it. I think I still have a partial bottle somewhere out in the shed. I always had good luck with it on hard metal parts, such as the rear bumper.
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