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Old 09-17-2007, 11:26 AM   #1
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removing hard water deposits

I park my Bambi at the end of my long driveway under a canopy that has top and side shade tarps. My sprinklers don't hit it directly but they do mist some water that beads on on poor Bambi. The long and short of it is I have hard water deposits on the tinted window shields and the whole right side that I cannot clean off. Someone suggested 4 ought (0000) steel wool but that seems a little crazy to use on the plastic tinted shields and I imagine the aluminum might get "swirly" if I do that.
1. Help! the water spots are ugly
2. I bought front and rear canopy covers so Bambi is now protected from the mist.

PS: I didn't see a thread on hard water deposits so I am posting this one...I hope this hasn't been covered extensively and I just somehow missed it.
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:42 AM   #2
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I have posted before on using 0000 steel wool, but that was for a different application - glass. I would NOT use it on the aluminum, probably not on the plastic. I have used vinager with success, but I don't know how it would react with the finish on your trailer. Wish I could help more....mine doesn't have a clear coat - I just polish if I get spots.
Dave
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Old 09-17-2007, 12:13 PM   #3
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CLR?
Maybe?
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Old 09-17-2007, 02:34 PM   #4
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hi frantic

for the rock guards, glass and trailer skin....

-automotive soap/water first.

-follow this with undiluted vinegar (5% acetic acid)

use a soppin' wet cloth and go over the area several times lightly.

-next 90% isopropyl alcohol and again soppin' wet....

-now wash again lightly with soap/water and rinse throughly.

IF there is ANY residual deposits on the trailer skin, use a 'automotive clay bar'

Detailing Clay Bar - Car Paint Cleaning | Detailing How-to Guide

now the clearcoat is as clean/bare as it's gonna get.

there may be some etching in the clearcoat from acid rain deposits or the mineral deposits

so now that it is REALLY REALLY CLEAN, apply your favorite automotive wax to protect the clearcoat.


IF the glass still has any residual deposits use a product like this...

Caswell Inc. - No Touch Products

which is basically a stronger acid glass cleaner.

following this cleaning,

i'd suggest a nice coat of rain-x or other window wax product...

and a coating of lexan/plastic polish for the rock guards....

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:26 PM   #5
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thanks 2air, i appreciate the diligent post...i will print this out and head off to Pep Boys or some where like that to acquire my provisions......
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:57 PM   #6
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hey u r welcome!

i use those round cotton/foam waxing pads with the plastx and

keep a couple dozen microfiber towels on hand for most surface work.

that's a great setup you have with the superduty and the auxilary water tank and holding tank.

love the big truck!

i use meguiars poly sealant (#20 or 21) as a wax for the truck and trailer.

Meguiars #21 Synthetic Sealant

good gloss and very durable.

i just spent 3 days (and 3 sixpacks) doing the truck, shell and trailer (57 feet) all by hand....

wash, solvent, clay, wax and all trim.

this will last for 6-8 months of travel and washings....

cheers
2air'

silver gate covered most of the process (and products) here in posts 181-188 with other linked threads to products...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f396...t-29471-4.html
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Old 09-17-2007, 05:00 PM   #7
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You could also try brewed coffee... it works great on my black Mercury outboard, glass shower doors, etc. Just hold a coffee soaked rag against the water spots and they will dissolve. It takes a few applications, and would probably cost a fortune to do a whole Airstream!
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Old 10-09-2007, 03:19 PM   #8
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Smile follow up on original post

I was gearing up to try to get the water spots off when the thought occurred to me to have my regular car wash guy tackle it. I have a weekly car wash guy who comes to my house and washes which ever vehicle I need cleaned that week (I have 3 plus the Bambi)...I know this sounds kinda extravagant but he only charges me $15 per vehicle and this is a lot cheaper than going to the car wash when you factor in time, hassle, etc....any way, I asked him if he could get the water spots out and he said yep no problem....3 hours and 3 guys (with hand cramps) later...voila! done and looking great! He used some aluminum polish and also clay I think... Cost? $150 and well worth it. If you live in the San Gabriel or San Fernando Valley and need a guy to do you A, I have the right guy for you. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
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Old 10-09-2007, 03:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djfrantic
He used some aluminum polish and also clay I think... Cost? $150 and well worth it.
Yikes! This would scare me...your 2006 trailer, while it is aluminum the surface is not - it's a clearcoat/plasticoat finish. I'd be afraid aluminum polish &/or clay would compromise the factory finish...but what do I know, I have bare aluminum trailers.

What if anything are you doing to prevent the water spots from accumulating again? Any wax, Walbernize or other products? Or do you intend to repeat the clay/aluminum polish process again when needed?

Shari
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Old 10-09-2007, 04:46 PM   #10
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Just leave it out in the rain during heating season - the acid rain from coal and other heating flue gasses will enjoy the cabonates, might fizz like an Alka-Seltzer for the first few minutes though...
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Old 10-11-2007, 03:28 PM   #11
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acid rain....wrong coast

maybe on the Atlantic seaboard they heat with coal....but.....here? it never gets cold so we don't use heaters....whats a flue?
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Old 10-11-2007, 04:07 PM   #12
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You could also try brewed coffee... it works great on my black Mercury outboard, glass shower doors, etc. Just hold a coffee soaked rag against the water spots and they will dissolve. It takes a few applications, and would probably cost a fortune to do a whole Airstream!
I suppose the 'Free Refills' at the local breakfast joint wouldn't fly
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