Protect your new polished A/S

53flyingcloud · 08-14-2003, 03:28 AM

I recently came across this stuff that is used on new car surface and, airplanes to help protect the finish...Does it have a place in helping to protect the newness of our new A/S or, in the case of newly polished vintage Airstreams?

You will need a Adobe Acrobat reader to check out the spec.

Venture Shield
Once there, go to the section under 'New Products', then go to Automotive Finish Protection..

BTW, the company will send you a sample to try out. Not bad, just use it on a small spot for your test. Just call or, email:

1. Telephone:800-343-1076

2. email:ventureshield@venturetape.com

(I'm thinking on the rooftop....might just be the answer to that area.)

ciao

dtbw · 08-14-2003, 07:16 AM

I have requested the sample. This might also be the answer to the WBCCI red letter situation (ie apply this product between the skin and the #s ). In addition, if it is really as clear and adhesive as the claim, it has potential for a whole trailer application and unless cost prohibitive, it would certainly be easier to replace than clearcoat or routine polishing.

Inland RV Center, In · 08-14-2003, 08:10 AM

We have ordered some samples of the stated material, for testing.

We will post accordingly, after completion.

Andy

Ken J · 08-14-2003, 08:34 AM

I use the Rollite sealer on my polished trailer. Seems to work realy well. I apply 2x per year and I've let my trailer go for two years between polish updates. I try to update polish once per year.

Ken J.

**jcanavera** · 08-14-2003, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by dtbw
I have requested the sample. This might also be the answer to the WBCCI red letter situation (ie apply this product between the skin and the #s ).

It may not be the answer because if you look at the specs, it blocks 100% of the UV for a period of 10 years. Lets consider you place a square of it in the number area. If you peel it off after a number of years you will be left with the unweathered imprint of the block.

On the other hand if the numbers will release from this product without harming the product itself then at least you could pull those off and the film would stay invisible. That would be an improvement.

What is the size of the sample you are getting?

Jack

dtbw · 08-14-2003, 08:49 AM

Jack,
Got an email back indicating that the local distributer would be calling me later today, so I will ask about the sample size.

**jcanavera** · 08-14-2003, 08:59 AM

Other questions come to mind. Overtime the rest of the trailer finish will weather due to UV etc. Will the area that is covered start to stand out since its finish will be protected? Since the material is clear, would that protected block become more visible as time and UV impact the adjoining unprotected areas?

Jack

dtbw · 08-14-2003, 09:07 AM

Jack,
Given that the stuff comes in 48" width, and seems to have a the ability to handle compound curves, maybe it would make sense to cover the entire top half of the rig (down to the beltline molding). Just make sections of the stuff to match each aluminum section. Not that this would be simple or easy, but I can see it as a possibility. Will be interesting to see how much, if any, difference it makes in the appearance. For those of us with the newer A/S, this might offer a way to prolong the life of the Alcoa coating as we all know it will fail in time. I am anxious to get a sample and play with it some.

Ken J · 08-14-2003, 09:22 AM

I know I may sound like I'm not willing to look at all the new ideas for polishing out there, thats not the case as I annually polish my trailer myself.

Having said that, all the polishes that we have used up to this point are aircraft approved (and expensive, not to mention time comsuming) so I would be real careful about using something that might damage rivited aluminum.

I think its great to look at new ideas, just make sure they will be appropriate for our application. I'm not trying to get a heavy debate going here, I would like to hear what others think or have used with good long term results.

Ken J.

jaiman · 08-14-2003, 09:37 AM

I agree that the compound curves could present an installatin nightmare. It would depend on how much re-movement you have before the adhesive sets up. Also joints might be interesting. "10 year UV guarantee" with a clear coating?

InsideOut · 08-14-2003, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Just make sections of the stuff to match each aluminum section.

What about the rivets? Wouldn't you end up with little air pockets at each one? Either that or strips w/o the film...

Shari

dtbw · 08-14-2003, 10:25 AM

This stuff obviously has attracted a lively discussion. It is new, has potential, but that does not mean applicability. I will be talking to the distributer and asking lots of questions. I am very interested in the chemical properties of the adhesive. For it to be safe on bare or coated aluminum, it MUST be very hydrophobic as trapped moisture (even at molecular quanitites) will damage aluminum very fast. It also must be chemically benign to aluminum. I am also interested in how long the adhesive maintains its semifluid state (must be at least in the multiyear category for our application). From the specs on the web, the urethane film is quite malleable and with only a 6mm cross section, a little care in installation would allow the rivets to be covered with minimal trapped air underneath.

I think this deserves a bit more investigation. It may turn out to not be a good thing, but then it might not.

garry · 08-14-2003, 12:11 PM

DTBW;
Please keep us updated, this may be a usefull product for many of us.

Garry

dtbw · 08-19-2003, 01:26 PM

Finally I was able to talk to the Distributer of this product today. I have a 2 sq ft section of the 6mil product coming my way.

First the answers to some of our questions:

The adhesive is extremely hydrophobic. Any trapped water molecules are conducted to the surface of the film where evaporation can remove them.

THe adhesive is chemically benign to bare polished aluminum

THe adhesive remains plyable and removable after 7-10 years of direct sun exposure and remains attached to the film so that none remains on the surface after removal.

The adhesive is 2mil thick and the film material is either 6 or 12 mil user choice

THe adhesive is extremely agressive in attaching, but with sufficient sheer force, releases. The rep commented that the adhesive would stick to rough pine wood, as well as the most highly polished surface. During installation, the adhesive remains unattached until a water alcohol mixture is sprayed onto it and then it attaches.

The film maintains its 100% UV blocking capability after 10 years of direct sunlight exposure.

The film is NON-yellowing and will maintain its clarity throughout its lifespan

The film and adhesive do NO change the color, clarity, shine, etc of the underlying surface. Given that the film is urethane, the surface may be slightly different, but the optical characteristics of the underlying surface are unchanged.

The film is applied similar to solar film except with an alcohol/water mixture that sets the adhesive.

The product is stocked in 12-20" widths, but 48" rolls can be custom ordered.

Application is fairly straightforward. The manufacturer sells a microadjustable blade so that a sheet would be applied to an aluminum section, and the the blade adjusted to just slightly more than the depth of the film would be used to cut the excess at the lap joint using the seam edge as a guide. This would give perfect fit to the film and protect the underlying aluminum completely to the very edge. The underlaying lap sections would use the overlapping section as the template for cutting that edge and then it would be applied as a butt-edge against the lap seam. Application would logically start at the top center section and work down.

The 6mil product is what is recommended as it will more easily stretch to fit the convex compound curves of the end sections.

The cost is $5 / sq ft, regardless of width, if purchased in less than bulk (ie a 100FT roll). In complete rolls, the cost drops to $3.50 sq ft, so it looks to be a bit more expensive than the plasticoat, but given the easier removal, replacement, it may over time be cheaper. It has far superior mechanical abrasion shielding properties and if the claim to NO optical property changes of the underlying surface proves accurate, even a slightly higher cost could be justified.

The only downside is that being a urethane film, it does tend to attract dust, but I have noticed the same problem with plasticoat and the Alcoa finish. The rep did mention a specific protectant product that sounded a lot like Walbernize that would also stop the static attraction properties of the film to dust.

So, looks like a bit more investigation is in order. I am going to run over to the local A/S service center and get a small section of the older duraluminum product so that I can polish it to mirror finish and apply the film to a portion of the surface to verify the extent of any appearance changes (if any). I am also going to remove my WBCCI #s, make new ones, apply the film to the letter area on the front and rear and then apply the #s on top of the film. Given that my rig is new, I am not too concerned about uneven UV degradation and this should be us a few more data points on appearence over the Alcoa finish.

Although there is still a lot of data to gather from actual experience with the product, at least there are no red flags so far and it still looks like a potentially good product to better protect our alumimum beauties.

david