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Old 05-10-2004, 10:07 AM   #29
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My two cents...I tried wetsanding this weekend also. I've been using Nuvite and a cyclo so far but it takes many, many passes to get rid of the milky spots. So I tried wetsanding on the front panel using 2000 grit and then Nuvite F7. At first I was not happy with the results. It seemed hazy compared with the pure Nuvite/cycle panels and I could see the scratches. I went back the next day and hit the area again and it shined up very nicely. I then did the whole panel and was pleased. It definitely cut down on the number of passes needed to remove the milky spots but not by that much. If I look closely, I can still see fine scratches but I anticipate that they will be removed during the S polish. I think I'll use the wetsanding on the heavily corroded sections.
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Old 05-10-2004, 11:52 AM   #30
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We're heading out for the Silver Trailer Social this weekend, and the Perfect Polish guy is supposed to be there giving demonstrations on Saturday and Sunday. I hope I get a chance to ask him about how to shine up the road-damaged front corners of my trailer while I'm there. Going at it by hand with the SS sure isn't cutting it.
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Old 05-10-2004, 02:52 PM   #31
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Question: What happens when wet sanding around rivets? I should think they would cause an unsanded "shadow" area if you are always sanding in one direction.

Mark
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Old 05-10-2004, 03:13 PM   #32
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Mark - good point. What about a dremel tool around the rivets?
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:00 PM   #33
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Here are two more pics. The "grill" and the body. I shot this later in the day so it's not quite the best lighting.
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:02 PM   #34
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I hope to put some more wet sanding time in this weekend. All of these were done after work, with a few minutes of effort on each. I still think wet sanding is a "ton" of work but when you have as severaly corroded a nose as mine it may be the only way. I'll post more pics as I make progress on this.
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Old 05-10-2004, 10:41 PM   #35
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I got my $25 Chicago-Electric polisher from Harborfreight today and tried it out.It works great with the Met-All polish (I'll post some pics soon).
About removing black residue, white flour or talcum powder sprinkled on a rag works best.At work they make bag salt shakers with a dixie cup covered with tape and a few holes poked in the top to spriinkle the talc on a rag.One wipe with the rag and all the residue comes off.
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Old 05-10-2004, 11:20 PM   #36
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A combination of stripper and 600 grit wet/dyt sandpaper is the only method I found of removing the WBCCI
decal residue from my Caravel. I tried about everything short of dynamite.
I intend to wet sand the whole surface with 1000 grit before applying the Southern Shine. I did buff some on a small area and it looks great. Not a mirror shine but a nice shiny shine.
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Old 05-11-2004, 12:13 AM   #37
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I managed to get the WBCCI number residue off the rear of the Caravel with Goof-off, and SS applied one after the other. Neither alone seemed to do the trick. However, I tried the same trick on the front and got a smeared gooey mess. Yuk. Not despirate enough to resort to the sandpaper yet though!
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Old 05-11-2004, 12:29 AM   #38
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Stef, how much SS do you think you will need on your Caravel? At the rate I'm going, I'm not sure the 4 bottles I got from you are enough. I used about half a bottle just on the LP tanks.
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Old 05-11-2004, 12:01 PM   #39
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Greg's polisher

Greg176,

Will you keep me updated about the polisher? I haven't started on my Trade Wind yet and am VERY interested in a $25 polisher. I want to know if yours survives the whole job and if you continue to be satisfied!

Thanks,

Connie
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Old 05-11-2004, 12:48 PM   #40
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Wetsanding Technique?

I've been following this thread with interest and was hoping someone else would ask this, but I'll show my ignorance...specifically, how does one go about wetsanding? Do you wet the surface first, and then sand? Or do you moisten the paper before sanding? Any other tricks or techniques to be aware of?

Mike
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Old 05-11-2004, 01:00 PM   #41
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my understand on this is that you should run water over the area to be sanded. The water acts as a lubicant between the surface and the paper and also helps to move away residue and keep the paper from fouling. I used a hose, but I've seen low specialty hoses with little suction cups on them which attached to the body and spray a nice little shower onto a larger area through little pinhole in the hose.

I'll stick with the garden hose but I think you could use a bucket and sponge as well.
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Old 05-12-2004, 08:13 AM   #42
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I wet the sandpaper and then had a sponge that I used to wet the area and then to keep it wet.
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