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Old 01-06-2011, 08:56 PM   #15
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My polish story

I am almost finish polishing as much as I have the energy. My 76 sat under trees most of it's life on blocks so compounding was lots of work. Lowes has a 10 inch cotton buffer pad with a Velcro backing plate for a side grinder. With Nuvite it cuts but lots of time. I then used the backing plate and an automotive store had foam pads that polish without swirl marks. I then used an air orbital with foam pads and grade S to finish. Next I'm going to use spray auto retailer/wax to remove the last haze. I don't have experience with a cyclo and don't know how it compairs both in finish and labor. My point is Air driven tools if you have the compressor works well.and is light weight and I use it for other things.
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Old 01-07-2011, 11:43 AM   #16
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so the side grinder is better for compounding than a polisher? I mean the circular polisher not the Cyclo. I have both but no grinder. ( yet)
I love the Cyclo for polishing at the last stages, never tried it from the compounding stage. It does a great job on the cars too.
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:17 PM   #17
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Alansd, I'm not sure if we are talking in the same terms, My AS was corroded and lots of scrapes. I did not know beans about what I was doing and only later started reading on the forum how to go about this. I ordered Nuvite and later reordered and that time they sent pamphlets on tips. SO I learn best by mistakes that cost money or time. I bought a large single speed grinder from Lowes. It did OK but really went too fast 8000 rpm. It cut lots but was heavy and hard to control. I went to Harbor Freight and got a variable speed $50.00 and worked better for the second cut . I then went to finer Nuvite and foam to get most of crud. Finally I used the orbital to clean up areas and get into smaller places. A cyclo my have saved time I don't know. I do think that the sweat shirt material used would remove the junk and polish that other things cannot. Due to thousands of deep scratches I don't know from what I rather had to leave or sand out. I sanded and ruined the coating so it has places that will not shine as much. The price you pay I guess. I think my next shine will not take much compounding so I will try to get lots more off.
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Old 01-07-2011, 03:12 PM   #18
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It would motivate me, but when I polished my 1976 Overlander about 4 years ago, I dislocated my shoulder. Now I have lots of pain in the shoulder (not to mention arthritis) and am kinda looking for something a bit lighter. Am going to the gym now & it is helping to build muscles in the shoulder.....oh, I hate getting old! I'm up to 3 lb weights in each arm, but extending the one out is a b***h!
Much better than the alternative. Sal.
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:17 PM   #19
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Much better than the alternative. Sal.
That reminds me of my dad. He used to say that when he was suffering from cancer, about this time last year, when someone would ask him how he was. But in reality, the alternative IS better. At least that's what I believe (and my dad did too...he was just joking & he's free of his pain in heaven!) I don't think the shoulder will kill me, though! But I think I will get a Porter Cable & give it a "whirl" in the spring! I'm sure this snow is leaving some dandy water spots on my trailer! Thanks for all the advise.
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:40 AM   #20
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I guess the side grinder has its place. Levon did a polishing "class" at our last Spring Rally using one and rouges. It was very effective. Still lots of work though, there is no way around that.
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Old 01-08-2011, 07:50 PM   #21
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Just about finished

I was able to work most of the day before the weather set in. I'm happy with the way it looks for the work and hours put in. If there is lots of corrosion it takes lots of pressure and grit to cut through to new metal. Part of the effort is to get rid of the work marks to get it clean. I used the buffer and pads to get rid of the hase that remains. . Best rule is double the money and triple the time. But when finished it does look good.
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Old 01-08-2011, 09:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAT
Alansd, I'm not sure if we are talking in the same terms, My AS was corroded and lots of scrapes. I did not know beans about what I was doing and only later started reading on the forum how to go about this. I ordered Nuvite and later reordered and that time they sent pamphlets on tips. SO I learn best by mistakes that cost money or time. I bought a large single speed grinder from Lowes. It did OK but really went too fast 8000 rpm. It cut lots but was heavy and hard to control. I went to Harbor Freight and got a variable speed $50.00 and worked better for the second cut . I then went to finer Nuvite and foam to get most of crud. Finally I used the orbital to clean up areas and get into smaller places. A cyclo my have saved time I don't know. I do think that the sweat shirt material used would remove the junk and polish that other things cannot. Due to thousands of deep scratches I don't know from what I rather had to leave or sand out. I sanded and ruined the coating so it has places that will not shine as much. The price you pay I guess. I think my next shine will not take much compounding so I will try to get lots more off.
Have you tried the 3 step with the scour pads? I did on my motorhome. It had a lot of corrosion. It's like sanding it works great.
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:27 PM   #23
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enosburg , Vermont
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Cyclo is an incredable tool for the polish and can do the whole job. It will take more time, pads and compound to strip down to pre-polish. For the prep work a rotory is faster/cheaper. They can use either the edge pads [with arbor adapter] or the regular disc pads. Porter, dewalt, or makita are fine, all will handle 7" pads easly. However variable speed is a must, much over 3500 rmp can cause problems. Air power is great but polishers require some serious volume. Without a comercial grade compresser and high volume tank there is a lot of waiting time and risk of compressor failure. If you get clouds and swirls at final polish with a rotory chances are the rpm is to high or to much pressure, either cause to much heat on the alum. Any way you cut it its a lousy time consuming job.
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:50 PM   #24
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I used a Makita variable speed grinder with polishing wheels & rouge to polish my trailer. On my previous trailer, I used a Harbor Freight variable speed polisher and Nuvite to polish her. On both trailers, I used the Cyclo to remove swirls. I'm not debating that the Cyclo is a terrific tool. It certainly is! I'm just looking for a lighter alternative to remove swirls, since the Cyclo is kinda heavy for this old girl! I sickly enjoy polishing! I'm going to get a Porter Cable variable speed polisher for around $115 & I'll let you know how it goes in the spring.
Thanks for all the advise & alternative methods.....there are tons of them, aren't there!?
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Old 01-18-2011, 07:36 PM   #25
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A couple of neighborly reminders for folks using the "side grinders". No loose clothing. When an untucked tee shirt gets picked up a 3000+rpm all hell breaks loose, its over in a second and very painfull. Make sure you go the right direction on any alum edges, especially corners and extrusions. An edge wheel traveling into the exposed edge can pick it up and mangle both the metal and your hands.
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:24 PM   #26
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Angry

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A couple of neighborly reminders for folks using the "side grinders". No loose clothing. When an untucked tee shirt gets picked up a 3000+rpm all hell breaks loose, its over in a second and very painfull. Make sure you go the right direction on any alum edges, especially corners and extrusions. An edge wheel traveling into the exposed edge can pick it up and mangle both the metal and your hands.
Also, it wrecks a pair of earbuds in a nanosecond. It's even more painful if they're Bose earbuds
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:31 PM   #27
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Also, it wrecks a pair of earbuds in a nanosecond. It's even more painful if they're Bose earbuds

Hey Becky,

I one upped you today,

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Need to be more careful in cord management.....
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:30 PM   #28
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Ooooh. Bet that freaked you out! At least cords are relatively cheap!!
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