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Old 08-17-2008, 12:53 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
I have some "S" on hand, but have not seen it make any difference over the way I am currently doing it.
From our experience, "S" is really only a "final coat" almost like a wax. It really isn't intended to cut the finish as "C" or "F7" do, just bring out the final shine on the finish that's already there, much like a true jewelers rouge does to gold.

Shari
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Old 08-17-2008, 07:25 PM   #16
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Well, misery loves company because I now feel much better about my efforts over the past two weekends polishing my '67 Globetrotter. I, too, had read the posts discussing 2 passes with F7 and was starting to wonder what I was doing wrong. I spent more than 4 hours polishing one portion of a smaller rear panel and even then it didn't look great. It was passable but not finished. I extrapolated that experience and estimated that at that rate I would spend about 100 hours for the entire trailer. Luckily, the higher panels go faster for some reason. Using a compounding bar seemed to speed things a bit this weekend and I have some G6 on order. Nevertheless, it is a slow process. On the plus side, I'm finding that I really enjoy polishing and that's saying something because it's been very hot in Houston. In fact today I decided to stop when the polish started smoking or steaming when I applied it to an upper panel.
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Old 08-17-2008, 08:50 PM   #17
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I have a similar problem w/ my 63 GT. I polished it last year w/G6 & cyclo'd ww/ S and in certain light it has light brownish splotchy haze.I have tried polishing w/ C still no luck.Is the alum. "burned beyond repair? The owner of Vintage Trailer told me that it should be able to be buffed out, but I have had no luck..........
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Old 08-18-2008, 05:10 PM   #18
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Scorched Aluminum

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Originally Posted by Cochese View Post
I have a similar problem w/ my 63 GT. I polished it last year w/G6 & cyclo'd ww/ S and in certain light it has light brownish splotchy haze.I have tried polishing w/ C still no luck.Is the alum. "burned beyond repair? The owner of Vintage Trailer told me that it should be able to be buffed out, but I have had no luck..........
The brownish splotches on my my 61 Bambi are not scorched aluminum. They disappear with more compounding. If you look at the splotches closely in the right light you can see the hazy film that I believe is remaining oxidation. You may need to go to the coarser F7 as 62overlander described.
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Old 08-18-2008, 11:11 PM   #19
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I also think it's left over oxidation.

You really have to buff ALOT to burn through the Alclad aluminum and when you do, you know it. It gets bigger when you polish more, it doesn't go away. We have a small spot (1"x1-1/2") on our '64 where we went through on a access door that had a deep scratch in it and thought if we buffed long enough it would go away. Not. I've tried photographing it to no avail...but it is not a haze, it is more like a puddle - consistently discolored - not splotchy at all. And it is a redish-brown color opposed to the greyish-brown of oxidation.

The key with compounding is to keep your compounder speed very slow and let the polish do the work. Also move around in a consistent pattern - up & down over a section then left to right. We will also squirt water on an area with a squirt bottle when we are polishing it to keep the temps down. But if your speed is slow, the polish "cuts" into the oxidation...if your speed is too fast or you use too much polish, the buff just slides on the skin instead of cutting into it.

One telltale sign that there is still oxidation there is to look at the section a couple of days later...if the splotchiness "shows up", it means its already started re-oxidizing which happens faster where old oxidation still remains.

Unless you are aggressively sanding, using super fast speeds on your buffer or really leaning into the tool while polishing, it's pretty doubtful you've gone through the metal or burned it. You really have to work hard to go through it. Try another pass ~ see what happens, my guess is it'll go away more with each pass. We had sections that took 4, 5 or 6 passes with "C" before all the oxidation was gone - each panel was slightly different.

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Old 08-19-2008, 04:46 AM   #20
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persistence and perseverance. This task will not be instant gratification by any means. Stick with and it will eventually become the surface you are looking for. Another thing I wanted to add, buy the best quality bonnets and compounds. There is so much time involved in this that cutting corners is not worth it in the long run. Be glad too that you have a short trailer, I have 26 feet to deal with.
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Old 08-19-2008, 07:21 AM   #21
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Quote:
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persistence and perseverance. This task will not be instant gratification by any means. Stick with and it will eventually become the surface you are looking for... Be glad too that you have a short trailer, I have 26 feet to deal with.
31 feet and 350 hours....that's AFTER removing the clear coat......
and absolutely worth it!!

TBTU (time between touch up) seems to be about six to eight months when stored under a 'Stream-Port in the East Texas Piney Woods.

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Old 08-19-2008, 08:02 AM   #22
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Dennis, What a B E A U T I F U L trailer. I'm sure your neighbors don't complain about what is in your driveway.
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Old 08-24-2008, 04:01 PM   #23
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Polishing Begins - Looking for the Ben Gay

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Old 08-24-2008, 05:19 PM   #24
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???

Cyclo=random orbit??
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Old 08-24-2008, 05:21 PM   #25
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Old 08-25-2008, 12:07 PM   #26
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I found and bought a cyclo. After looking hard locally I got a nice slightly used one with a bunch of extras.
So question for you cyclo users... anyone using another polish beside Nuvite with theirs? How does it do with the Toolbox polish for example?
I am excited to get to use this great tool. It will be nice on my older 911 all well.
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Old 08-25-2008, 03:41 PM   #27
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the cyclo can be used with any polish. The tool box stuff only cleans the surface and does not get deep into the pores. Nuvite is the best and polishes deeply. I highly recommend you not waste your time with the bargain polishes. The cyclo is not so good at removing the oxidation. That is best done with a compounder and wool bonnets.
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Old 08-25-2008, 04:14 PM   #28
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Gotcha. Tool Box is no bargain at 12 bucks a bottle, but I see your point. I am buying some Nuvite . I used Liquid Glass at 20 bucks a can, for a long time to maintain the finish after clearcoat removal on my Classic Moho, it worked well.
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