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1-cent: Obviously, Olympics are not suitable for airplanes. But last I checked, Airstreams weren't rated for airtravel. They may not be "as strong", but they don't need to be...the structural forces on two-dimensional travel certainly are less than those in 3-dimensional travel @ 0-30,000+ feet above the ground. Then there is the human safety factor - you don't travel inside your Airstream or have the potential for a less that perfect landing.
2-cents: To remove the entire interior just to remove the interior panels so you can buck rivets on a damaged panel makes absolutely no sense to me - see #1.
IMO, a value judgement must be made individually...based on individual circumstances. For Maxwell, who does not need complete restoration, gut & re-do and has the original interior intact including the Zolatone and said panel has already been replaced by the factory (with Olympic rivets)...using Olypmics make sense. For Birdy, where we have the entire trailer in pieces and are doing a total restoration...we will be bucking.
Thanks for the input Andy...sounds like we are "installing them properly"...no worries ~
FWIW...our next "project" IS to build an airplane ~
Shari
__________________
Vintage Airstream Club - 2007/2008 President
WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005)
AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002
It's actually Mr.InsideOut's project. I don't know all the details (yet!)...I do know it's a Van's Aircraft RV-12. But he keeps telling me all the tools he's been buying will work for both projects...and he keeps calling me Rosie.
After all the blood sweat & tears of two Airstream projects...it's only fair.
Of course, it won't be painted...polished!
Shari
__________________
Vintage Airstream Club - 2007/2008 President
WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005)
AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002
It's actually Mr.InsideOut's project. I don't know all the details (yet!)...I do know it's a Van's Aircraft RV-12. But he keeps telling me all the tools he's been buying will work for both projects...and he keeps calling me Rosie.
After all the blood sweat & tears of two Airstream projects...it's only fair.
Anyone have suggestions products designed to strip the clearcoat off my 76? it looks like cloudy scuzz on the upper 1/3.. any help is appreciated as I am a newby
Anyone have suggestions products designed to strip the clearcoat off my 76? it looks like cloudy scuzz on the upper 1/3.. any help is appreciated as I am a newby
We had great sucess with Kean-Strip's Aircraft Stripper. It can be found at Pep Boys, Auto Zone I think even Home Depot & Wal-Mart these days. Be sure to read the label and follow all the precautions...this stuff is nasty! Anther more eco-friendly option is Citri-Strip. It works almost as well but is environmentally friendly.
Shari
__________________
Vintage Airstream Club - 2007/2008 President
WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005)
AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002
Thanks for the Info InsideOut,, I will check into both. I am starting to think that stripped, it would look better than oxidized,, and when I can, I will begin the polishing process...
Rod
Thanks for the Info InsideOut,, I will check into both. I am starting to think that stripped, it would look better than oxidized,, and when I can, I will begin the polishing process...
Rod
We had excellent succes on two trailers that we stripped with Napier Removall. The stripper is very forgiving, even if left on over night. The clear coat comes off in sheets, with a pressure washer, or a strong fan nozzle. One gallon does a 25ft trailer, in most cases.
The product seems pricey, but once you've used it, it's truly excellent.
We buy it from Vintagetrailersupply, you might find it locally at a specialty paint store.
Just FYI, "removal" can be found at an ICI paint distributer store under the "hydrostrip" label - same stuff. I've used it with great success on my Argosy.
Marc
we used a "t38" which I have no idea where it was made, but was purchased through Beeler Equp in Yuma, AZ. Made from rendering fat (brown brick). Worked great on stripping and then used another (I would say the white)for a polish, almost a mirror, maybe one more run. I would have to show you or call them, they are familiar with the project.
We have a '69 Globetrotter and I have had the same problem with what I call "ghosting" in the aluminum. I have eliminated this with about 12 passes with F7 but have been told that F9 does the trick without as much effort. I have ordered some F9 but have not received it yet. You might consider.
We have a '69 Globetrotter and I have had the same problem with what I call "ghosting" in the aluminum. I have eliminated this with about 12 passes with F7 but have been told that F9 does the trick without as much effort. I have ordered some F9 but have not received it yet. You might consider.
I found that F9 is really harsh. Please use with great care. The swirls it leaves are very difficult to get out. At least that has been my experience. I prefer more passes with C or F7, or G6. Sometimes after polishing for a while, it seems like they work all the same.
We have been trying the Airstream kit from Jestco products. Basically polishing wheels with rouge bars - old school. I am not ready to make a complete statement yet, since we're still working with it. However, it is definitely faster to get the metal to get a deep shine. All the polishing swirls are in a vertical orientation, no circular marks. It seems that following that with a cyclo might just cut the polishing time down by at least 30-40%. But, I will share more information once that is confirmed.
We have noticed that after changing direction on an already polished surface with the compounder, a milky haze appeared.
Try running the compounder over this haze from left to right only, do the reverse stroke in the air, not on the metal. It helped in some stubborn cases of haze/milky appearance.
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