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Old 05-08-2008, 02:02 PM   #15
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Andy, please define "when used properly".

We are embarking on major panel replacement projects on both of our trailers this weekend. One ('56) bucked and one ('64) w/Olympics...I would sure like to know how to use Olympics "properly" prior to starting to keep from having to do this twice.

Also, how would one use Olympics improperly...doesn't seem like there are too many options on how to use them, they're actually pretty simple technology ~ put it in the hole (w/Vulkem), pull it, shave it.

Shari
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Old 05-08-2008, 03:18 PM   #16
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There are many ways to skin a trailer. There are many different opinion as to the right way. You choose for yourself. I know that I, Me, Myself will not be doing any kind of structural repairs with olympics. I will be using solid rivets. I think solid is the right way to go. I do not have 37 years of experience, but I do have my opinion. Ironically, my opinion is shares by many other, some are actually called professionals. Putting on a patch, a 46" drip cap, a belt line, well, I say perfect fit. Replacing a panel, not the right fit.
You decide for yourself....
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:10 PM   #17
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Olympic rivets

Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
Andy, please define "when used properly".

We are embarking on major panel replacement projects on both of our trailers this weekend. One ('56) bucked and one ('64) w/Olympics...I would sure like to know how to use Olympics "properly" prior to starting to keep from having to do this twice.

Also, how would one use Olympics improperly...doesn't seem like there are too many options on how to use them, they're actually pretty simple technology ~ put it in the hole (w/Vulkem), pull it, shave it.

Shari
Buck riveting permits sloppy workmanship. The holes thru the metal don't have to be straight, the holes can be the wrong size, the rivet gun can be held at an angle, and all is forgiven, because the rivet swells.

Using Olympic rivets takes a little more care and technique.

The drilled holes must be reasonably straight, and the rivet gun must be held at 90 degrees from the metal.

Olympic rivets do not swell like buck rivets.

Olympic rivets should also have a small bead of Vulkem placed around the shank of the rivet, before it's inserted into the hole. When that is properly done, the Olympic rivet is sealed behind the head and around the shank, once the pin is pulled.

Buck riveting work must be sealed from the backside, therefore no sealer is under the rivet head or around it's shank.

Buck rivets are much cheaper than Olympic rivets.

Using a #21 drill bit for Olympic rivets is correct, not #20 as some choose to do. A #20 allows way too much slop for the rivet shank.

OLYMPICS WITH WASHERS IS AN ABSOLUTE NO NO.

Why???

The rubber washer deteriorates in time, and when it does, every rivet that used the washer, will leak. Who ever came up with the idea of using rubber washers with Olympic rivets, on an Airstream, did not think very far into the future. It at best, is a very poor way to do proper metal replacement.

Sloppy workmanship, is never an acceptable excuse when working on sheet metal replacement.

Segment replacements should have a bead of vulkem injected between the seams, then riveted. Same way with the lower and window sheets.

The roof sheet is handled differently. After all the rivets holes are drill in the roof sheet, the sheet is set aside so that all the metal shavings can be removed. Then, a good bead of Vulkem sealer is placed on every main bow and horizontal stringer, and on the adjoining metal. The roof sheet is then placed back into position and riveted with Olympics.

Using that procedure will insure a roof replacement, with NO leaks.

There is a specific technique that must be used, regardless of the type fastener, nails, screws, rivets and the like.

If not done properly, most any fastener system used, will become inadequate in short order.

Using Olympic rivets is a piece of cake, BUT, using the proper technique, is a must, since they are not as forgiving as a buck rivets, but they certainly have more than held up to the task.

Using Olympic rivets will hold an Airstream together just as well as buck rivets, any day.

35 plus years of use, more than demonstrates that fact.

Andy
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:26 PM   #18
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Well written and well said Andy.
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Buck riveting permits sloppy workmanship. The holes thru the metal don't have to be straight, the holes can be the wrong size, the rivet gun can be held at an angle, and all is forgiven, because the rivet swells.

Using Olympic rivets takes a little more care and technique.

The drilled holes must be reasonably straight, and the rivet gun must be held at 90 degrees from the metal.

Olympic rivets do not swell like buck rivets.

Olympic rivets should also have a small bead of Vulkem placed around the shank of the rivet, before it's inserted into the hole. When that is properly done, the Olympic rivet is sealed behind the head and around the shank, once the pin is pulled.

Buck riveting work must be sealed from the backside, therefore no sealer is under the rivet head or around it's shank.

Buck rivets are much cheaper than Olympic rivets.

Using a #21 drill bit for Olympic rivets is correct, not #20 as some choose to do. A #20 allows way too much slop for the rivet shank.

OLYMPICS WITH WASHERS IS AN ABSOLUTE NO NO.

Why???

The rubber washer deteriorates in time, and when it does, every rivet that used the washer, will leak. Who ever came up with the idea of using rubber washers with Olympic rivets, on an Airstream, did not think very far into the future. It at best, is a very poor way to do proper metal replacement.

Sloppy workmanship, is never an acceptable excuse when working on sheet metal replacement.

Segment replacements should have a bead of vulkem injected between the seams, then riveted. Same way with the lower and window sheets.

The roof sheet is handled differently. After all the rivets holes are drill in the roof sheet, the sheet is set aside so that all the metal shavings can be removed. Then, a good bead of Vulkem sealer is placed on every main bow and horizontal stringer, and on the adjoining metal. The roof sheet is then placed back into position and riveted with Olympics.

Using that procedure will insure a roof replacement, with NO leaks.

There is a specific technique that must be used, regardless of the type fastener, nails, screws, rivets and the like.

If not done properly, most any fastener system used, will become inadequate in short order.

Using Olympic rivets is a piece of cake, BUT, using the proper technique, is a must, since they are not as forgiving as a buck rivets, but they certainly have more than held up to the task.

Using Olympic rivets will hold an Airstream together just as well as buck rivets, any day.

35 plus years of use, more than demonstrates that fact.

Andy
And that is why an airstream is constructed of what kind of rivets? SOLID RIVETS......
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:39 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 62overlander
And that is why an airstream is constructed of what kind of rivets? SOLID RIVETS......

More than 75 years has demonstrated that.
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Old 05-08-2008, 10:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
And that is why an airstream is constructed of what kind of rivets? SOLID RIVETS......

One Olympic rivet equals about 100 buck rivets, in cost.

One bolt and nut equals about 100 nails, in cost.

The labor per installed buck rivet, is much less than an Olympic rivet.

Andy
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Old 05-08-2008, 10:31 PM   #22
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Yes Frank, I think I have the window he needs. The measurements are right. Whenever I see someone post a part need on the forum and I have it I'll try to get it to them. I'm sure I'll be in need of many parts as my restoration continues and hopefully someone here will have them. Hopefully I'll get it for him in a week or so after I return from vacation. Glad to here the drip cap worked for Anna. She looks sweet. Ed
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Old 05-08-2008, 10:58 PM   #23
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Buck Rivets

Bucking is the way to go! If you want it to last... buck em. If you want it to be structural - buck em! If you want to save $$$ and cut corners, Olympic them!
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Old 05-08-2008, 11:01 PM   #24
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If the olympics were structural, they would be FAA approved.
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Old 05-08-2008, 11:31 PM   #25
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So I probably should just keep my mouth shut, but why do some posts on here go the direction of if you don't agree, say something that could be taken as rude or objectionable (maybe I'm just too tired and am reading into them wrong?!?)? I mean we all have our opinions and our experiences but sometimes I hate reading threads when everyone sharing their advise turns into cutting down anyone that doesn't agree.

Certainly there are people that have the time, money and facilities to pull interior panels, but not all of us. I'm 100% about doing the job right the first time, but our AS has 4 panels that were replaced by the original owner 20 years ago, all done with Olympics and all don't leak, and there are no structural problems. While I respect that a Buck Rivet might be stronger than an olympic rivet, I too know from growing up in a Boeing Family that the stress load on panels on an airplane are much higher than any Airstream will ever see.

Sorry, I'll put my soapbox away.
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Old 05-09-2008, 05:08 AM   #26
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You are very right... sorry. Do it however. There are many ways to skin a trailer... I will say no more on this ever.
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Old 05-09-2008, 08:32 AM   #27
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Is that a promise?
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:23 AM   #28
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