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Old 03-20-2006, 11:47 PM   #1
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1966 22' Safari
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Polishing Question - sooo much black

I'm in the process of polishing my trailer. These are the steps I'm taking:
On the real pitted areas (mainly roof):
1) I'm wet sanding w/ a 150 grit (yes, 150, it seems to be the finest grit that works - very deep pits & they're still visible but don't want to go coarser)
2) Then I use a 220 grit
3) Then a 500 grit
4) Then an 800 grit
5) Then I'm applying a 3M rubbing compound with a compounding bonnet and polishing tool. The compound that says it will remove scratches from a 1000 grit sanding
6) Then I'm polishing with Mothers (tried Walberneze, doesn't work)

All of this took 2 hours for a 2x2 area.

PROBLEM I'M HAVING: There is sooo much black coming off with the compound, and caking up on the surface and pad, that even after applying the polish the area looks spotty and uneven. Some spots are shinier than others and there's something looking like stains in areas where the black seems to not want to disappear no matter how much I buff it. When I buff by hand, however I gey a better result.
Overall, its shiny, but uneven and not mirror - it seems to be LOADS of work.

QUESTIONS:
1) Should I use yet a finer grit sand paper before compounding?
2) Should I compound it twice?
3) Will mineral spirits remove the staining?
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Old 03-21-2006, 12:42 AM   #2
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Is the staining the black oxidation that you cannot remove, if so take some flour for bakeing rub that over the black that you cannot remove it's fine enough to get into the pores and will not scratch the surface. use to use that all the time on truck wheels after applying mothers.
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Old 03-21-2006, 12:51 AM   #3
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Thanks - I'll try that. Do you think it will even out the appearance of the polished areas?
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Old 03-21-2006, 12:56 AM   #4
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Not sure about that,, you might half to do some spot touch up. the flour works really well though to remove that black slime, hope it all works out for you..
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Old 03-21-2006, 04:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlandau
Thanks - I'll try that. Do you think it will even out the appearance of the polished areas?
jlandau,
You realize that working on the roof is quite simply the worst area for oxidation.? It's here that you're gonna have your slowest time, the darkest mess, etc. Just take your time and, stay focus. Worry abt the eveniness of the shine afterwards..It's just gonna take an unbelieveable amount of time and effort the first time around because you have years....years worth of oxidation to remove.
Keep up the good work, I'll stop by from time to time to check on your progress..
53FC
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Old 03-21-2006, 06:23 AM   #6
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Also, when you get done polishing a spot, wet a shop towel with mineral spirits and use it to wipe off the black gunk that is left on the skin. Youwould be suprised how much better it looks. I spent hours trying to polish a single panel, all I was doing was moving the gunk around. It started going a lot faster when I wiped it down with the mineral spirits.
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:01 AM   #7
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I have experienced the same issue above the window line on my 1963 Overlander. It seems that a courser polish cuts the oxidation much faster, and a consistant buffer speed makes this a little bit easier. But it is a bear nonetheless.
On my trailer, the Heavy Metal polish worked best for problem areas. Not that I am even close to being done....
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:14 AM   #8
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Sandpaper--Ouch That hurts. There are so many good threads here on polishing and many debates on the use of sandpaper. I use it for my woodworking, on Chummy the swirls would never come out! Stop what you are doing, please. Steve at Vintage Trailer Supply, an advertiser here on the forums, an AS owner and a good guy puts out a really nice sheet on how to polish. Give him a call and get a copy. If you are so inclined he also has the right stuff to do the job.
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:45 AM   #9
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jlandau,

How about posting a pic so we can see what you're up against?
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Old 03-21-2006, 10:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidh
Is the staining the black oxidation that you cannot remove, if so take some flour for bakeing rub that over the black that you cannot remove it's fine enough to get into the pores and will not scratch the surface. use to use that all the time on truck wheels after applying mothers.
I've tried this and didn't get great results. Is there some technique for applying the flower, eg, do you buff it on, like polish, or rub it on with a dry rag, maybe a damp rag?
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Old 03-21-2006, 10:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
I've tried this and didn't get great results. Is there some technique for applying the flower, eg, do you buff it on, like polish, or rub it on with a dry rag, maybe a damp rag?

Pretty sure the rag and flour has to be dry, otherwise it's just one more thing to have to wipe off.

For the stage you're at, jlandau, I'd say get some odorless mineral spirits, throwaway cloth rags and nitrile gloves, and wipe away the gunk after each pass. Until the surface becomes a little more uniform, you're going to have some splotchiness, especially on the roof. It'll come around for you eventually.
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Old 03-21-2006, 11:28 AM   #12
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Does jlandau's AS have a clear coat? I know they started that sometime in the 60's but how about 66? If that isn't removed first it could account for the spotting. The reason I ask is we are having a lot of the same issues with the "black stuff" in the pitted and scratched areas on our 55 but not the spotting that jlandau described.
This is a lot of work! The more you buff the more buffed you will be!
Lynn
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Old 03-21-2006, 01:20 PM   #13
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"Led", I would just slap the flour on after i was done polishing with Mothers, and would rub it around with my hand were I had just pollished to remove the black oxidation then would pollish by hand with cheese cloth always turned out great. Would always do this with truck rims, air & fuel tanks and if there was a pit in the surface would use flour and a toothbrush to remove black oxidation form pit.
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Old 03-21-2006, 06:02 PM   #14
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Could you have overheated the surface with your polisher and caused a tinting on the metal. It's my understanding that this will not change back once it occurs.
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