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Old 01-21-2011, 11:21 PM   #15
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HF polishers with warranty.Bought 2 and put two different wheels on each.
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:22 AM   #16
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When you guys finish your AS.... and have nothing to do.... please feel free to come by start on the Old Girl.
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:30 AM   #17
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I am also using this method. The following link here from my blog.
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:31 AM   #18
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Is there an advantage?

I polished my Safari last spring using the Perfect Polish method - Dewalt variable grinder w/ velcro pad and wool buffing pads running at 1000 rpm w/Nuvite 7 for compounding. Then went to Cyclo with some Nuvite C and finally Nuvite S. I used corn starch and mirco fiber towels to remove the black left overs. The compounder was always held with the pad almost flat to the surface rather than 90 degrees as shown in the above pics. Is there an advantage to the above method vs: Perfect Polish method?. Mine turned out really nice but was a huge effort.
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkasten View Post
Is there an advantage to the above method vs: Perfect Polish method?.
It really is all a matter of opinion. We've done both...and settled on a kind of hybrid. On some panels that don't seem to be getting shiny enough with one method, Rob will switch over and try the other...

When we originally did our '64 (7+ years ago), we did it 100% using the Perfect Polish method - flat wool pads, different grades of Nuvite, finishing w/the Cyclo first using Nuvite 'C', then Nuvite 'S'...it is a lot of work but leaves a beautiful finish.

This last year, we did our '56, we decided to try using the stitched & loose cotton buffs and tripoli/rouge bars for the compounding instead of the wool pads/Nuvite. Then finished w/the Cyclo, just like before - first with Nuvite 'C' then 'S'...it turned out just as nice as the other method.

BOTH methods are a lot of work through the compounding stage. Especially if you are removing 40+ years of oxidation - you have to cut through it. In newer trailers, you are also dealing with the slightly milled texture - gotta smooth that out.

We've done demos at the RMVAC rallies using both methods side by side on the same panel...most people can't really tell the difference when it's all done. The only real visible difference is before you Cyclo, the swirls are circular with the flat pad method and more lineal with the buff on end method, but regardless the Cyclo is the finishing touch that brings out the mirror shine. One other thing is, Nuvite doesn't work as well in extreme temperatures - either too hot or too cold where the bars are not as effected.

It seems that the bar method does seem to be slightly faster, but it also seems to leave more light scratches for the Cyclo phase and being that it is more aggressive, it would be easier to overheat a panel &/or burn through the Alclad finish. The bar method is cheaper - but we still use the Nuvite products for the Cyclo step so not that much. BOTH methods are incredibly messy and time consuming - but, IMO the mirror shine is worth the effort.

The good news is, you really don't have to go through all the compounding (removing the oxidation) stages except for when polishing the first time, if you maintain it by Cyclo polishing every year because it takes a long time to oxidize - at least here in dry CO. Until this fall, we have done absolutely nothing but wash/wax our '64 in about 5 years. It has oxidized ever so slightly, but it still holds it's own compared to the freshly polished '56 sitting right next to it.

This fall, we did however, replace a couple of damaged panels on the '64 and those needed to be polished - which prompted a touch-up on the whole trailer. This time Rob is using the bars & buff on the new panels & the touch-up. Then Cyclo with 'C' & 'S'. The second time compounding (if you really want to even call it that) is MUCH quicker, because it's only a couple of years of oxidation - only the most discriminating would even think it's necessary to re-compound it all based on the condition. If we hadn't replaced panels, that are now freshly polished - we probably would only Cyclo w/o re-compounding it and it would be fine.

The bottomline IMO, is that it doesn't really matter which way you remove the oxidation as long as it is all removed. It's really the Cyclo polishing step (w/Nuvite) that makes the difference in that 'mirror finish' we all strive for. The Cyclo is what takes out all the swirls and leaves that smooth as glass deep shine.

Shari
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Old 01-22-2011, 05:18 PM   #20
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We ended up choosing the Jetsco products method because we saw it demonstrated twice using this method. Once at the RMVAC rally and last year's Resto Rally. We were impressed and sold all in one. It's definitely a long process we are learning. No matter how many times you hear it will take a long time it doesn't really sink in until you start on your own project. Then you say to yourself.... Now I see what they meant.

Shawn is really rethinking buying such a big Airstream. I teased him and said once this is finished we can buy a second Airstream to which he replied sure babe as long as it's no larger than 5 feet. I knew that sure came way to easily.

On a side note I have to say I HATE filliment / worming. Urggg.

Anyway breaks over back to compounding. Pictures later this evening.
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:30 PM   #21
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InsideOut & NicheVintage -

Thanks for taking the time to fill in my blanks. Good to hear the Cyclo & Nuvite is really the final step to top end shine. Looks like compounding is very difficult no matter what process is used. After one year mine shows all kinds of water spots and hand smudges etc. but from 20 ' away it is still beautiful and from 50' away in the sun it still looks like a mirror. Glad to hear that it should be much easier the 2nd time around.
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:05 PM   #22
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Haven't polished mine yet, but thanks to all of you for the lessons. I will probably use the Nuvite C7 F6 C S method - my '61 Ambassador (all 28 feet of her) has been sitting in the woods for 6+ years and really can use a shine! I guess my work is cut out for me!
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:28 PM   #23
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Mine is already polished, last year I touched it up (the yearly polish) and used F7 Nuvite and then the Nuvite S and it got right back to mirror. But I did find that nothing happens in heat above 80 degrees out in the summer sun. Has to be about 60-75 otherwise it is not effective.

I totally agree with ya Tim, from 2' you see water spots, 20' away its beautiful, 50' away it knocks your socks off!
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:35 PM   #24
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61 Ambassador Even tho its a ton of work. We are enjoying it. Sounds nuts right? Good luck with yours.

Here are some pics from today. We got a very very late start and only worked for about 4 hours total. We had one casualty our International logo didn't make it off the Airstream in one piece. It made it off in 3. No good. Not sure where I can get another one. Other than that the day was fairly good.

Enjoy.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:43 PM   #25
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Looking good! Love the black face, looks way too familiar! Rob always ends up with "guy-liner" for a couple of days after polishing...looks like Shawn will too!

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Old 01-23-2011, 12:05 AM   #26
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Thanks. Yeah He definitely had the liner look going today. I told him he look liked a rock star. I gave him some eye makeup remover and it came right off thank goodness. We will be back at it tomorrow hopefully early. We are trying to get as much done as possible before the dead horse rally next month. At this rate we may if we are lucky have the end cap done. At least driving there the cars behind us will have something nice to look at. Hehehe
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:08 AM   #27
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One more question. Is there anyway to avoid the full face dust look. Shawn wore a painters cap but that didn't help much. Tomorrow he was going to try swim goggles or ski goggles. Boy were going to have some interesting polishing pictures.
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:34 AM   #28
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That stuff gets everywhere! We have yet been able to find anything that is 100% effective...if you find something, let us all know!

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