Polishing ...Help, I'm doing it wrong

Safari Tim · 08-18-2003, 07:50 PM

I just got a cyclo. I ordered the rubber bonets and the sweatshirt material. I also ordered a pound of C and S.

I tired cycloing with the C on the sweatshirt material and basically saw no improvment. I already removed the clearcoat BTW and the surface was getting black.

But no improvement in the shine.

So today, I purchased a 7" backing plate and wool sythentic buffing pad and tried it with my makita right angle drill.

I used C and compounded. Again, no improvement in the surface.

I spent a lot of money on this stuff so this is very discouraging...

I have a pound of F7 coming to see what that does.

I was at the local ralley in Napa this year where they practiced with a compounder and C and it looked great after a single pass.

So what is going on here?

Ken J · 08-18-2003, 07:52 PM

Have you tested to see if there is clear coat? Sounds to me like you may be trying to polish clearcoat.

Safari Tim · 08-18-2003, 07:54 PM

I removed the clear coat last year with bix stripper.

And the surface was getting black with the polish...

uwe · 08-18-2003, 08:15 PM

Tim,
If you have not seen it already, then maybe this site wold help.

http://www.vintageairstream.com/Myrtle/polish1.html

**Pick** · 08-18-2003, 08:23 PM

My order came in today. Here is the result of about 2 minutes on the back bumper, with an Wen electric polisher/grinder, with terry cloth bonnet. I am going to try my air powered orbital tomorrow.

Ken J · 08-18-2003, 08:51 PM

Tim

Couple of other things I can think of.

On the 70's trailers the metal does not shine as well as earlier trailers. On my 75 I've got some panels that don't take a good shine - so have you considered trying another spot to see if it shines?

Also I wondering if your using enough polish and if perhaps it drying too quickly - try a spray bottle of water.

Ken J.

Chas · 08-18-2003, 09:38 PM

Tim,

What section are you working on? A 71 will shine up just fine but may need some agressive compounding to get it started. The sides on mine were relatively easy when compared to the radiused end caps. Something to do with the way they shape the aluminum that makes them harder to get the mirror shine. I compounded my entire 74 with Nuvite "C". F7 is for later, almost to the cyclo stage. I probably spent an hour compounding with "C" on just a couple of square feet. Be sure to use only wool bonnets when compounding, you will need to wash them after each days use. Don't use any water unless you want an ungodly mess. Keep out of the sun, don't let the skin get too hot, etc., etc.,

Just hang in there and keep working it, in no time you will be a pro!!

Chas

Safari Tim · 08-18-2003, 09:49 PM

I was compounding the rear street side above the belt line.

I was using my cordless makita with the 7" bonnet on it. Could be not enough horse power?

Also, how hard do you have to press with the compounder? How hard with the cyclo?

Here is an example of what I am dealing with. My trailer is not all grey like some of the examples I hav seen.

The photo shows before (right) and after (left) bix stripper was used.

So, I didn't think my skin needed too agressive of a polish. But compounding with C or cycloing with C did not improve it.

trailertrash · 08-18-2003, 10:21 PM

Send that piece of garbage back. Demand a refund. Buy the high speed powerful buffer that we mentioned, the pads we mentioned, and get on the list for the SS from stfrobrts.

Don't believe me? PM flyfshr and ask him on the side- he's got a cyclo sitting in the box- waiting for his SS and a buffer-

Also- maybe its the photo- but I see clear coat still on your trailer. Check it out.

Safari Tim · 08-18-2003, 10:29 PM

I already stripped the whole trailer. That photo was meant to show the before and after the stripping.

And the fact the cyclo/compounder with C was no better than my stripped skin.

Don't want another SS debate. To set your mind at ease I ordered a couple of bottles a few days ago.

However, I want some input still on the cyclo/compounder method.

Since I already know your view, you may stand down

trailertrash · 08-18-2003, 10:38 PM

In the meantime- locate the correct pads from 3M. Ask FF about the part he did with nuvite and a psychlo, and how hard it was to work with after. Its much easier to use the SS from the beginning- the nuvite swirled and actually damaged the aluminum. Please ask him his opinion.

You need more power than a cordless is gonna afford you. Get a high powered one- adjust the speed down and you're ready to rock!

Good luck!

Chas · 08-19-2003, 06:54 AM

Well, looks like trailertrash and I agree on one thing, you will definitely need a more powerful corded buffer. I have a variable speed Porter-Cable.

Pick's bumper looks great but is no comparison to polishing the skin. Maybe I should order some of this SS and and try it for myself?

Chas

Safari Tim · 08-19-2003, 09:14 AM

My cousin has all sorts of power tools. I intend on borrowing his half inch drill today to try some more.

The only buffing pad I could find a the local hardware store was a wool blend made by American Standard. The backing plate was some generic thing that had a piece with it to attach to a 3/8 drill.

Do I need the half inch backing plate that everyone talks about making the adapter for it with the 5/8 rod and a grinder?

Chas · 08-19-2003, 02:07 PM

A 1/2" drill may be good to try but I still think you will be better off with a right angled polisher. They will be much easier to handle. Get a 3M loop backed velcro style buffer head attachment and some 3M loop backed wool bonnets. Your typical hardware store won't carry this, you will need to go to an auto body paint supplier to get the proper stuff.

Chas