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Old 06-03-2005, 06:44 AM   #21
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
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I've kept all my polishing to 1,000 - 1,500 rpm if I remember right lake was the one who recommended these speeds - you may want to call Scott and verify with him - he's a very helpful guy and seems always willing to help. You have to be careful not to overheat the surface.

FWIW - I don't think Lake recommends a need for the cylo - they say the final coat should be ap 300 with very little polish and very low speeds to remove swirl marks. I have to say that with all that I have read about the cylo, I will plan to get one - sounds like it does a better job of removing the swirls.

Ken
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Old 06-04-2005, 07:34 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
FWIW - I don't think Lake recommends a need for the cylo - they say the final coat should be ap 300 with very little polish and very low speeds to remove swirl marks. I have to say that with all that I have read about the cylo, I will plan to get one - sounds like it does a better job of removing the swirls.

Ken
From what I've seen, using a fine polish and soft pads (3M 5705) for the final pass leave the surface virtually swirl free. A lot depends on how badly the coarser compounding damaged the surface and how much time was taken to remove the multi directional swirls caused by the scratching on the surface. If you have an ultra fine polish, AP300 or HM Blue or Finesse It, rather than spend the money on a cyclo, try the foam pads that 3M sells for swirl removal. I have used them before on paint jobs and they work wonders. A black car will show any swirl from compounding, and the 3M foam pads are the best for removing them. Try it first!

Following the advice of companies that insist on swirling your aluminum by using their expensive products on a revolutionary buffer will create more work, as opposed to using the ages old system of wet sanding in a single horizontal direction, which is widely accepted as the norm in most any aircraft facility- especially those not using the Airmark or Spec barrel type polishers.
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Old 06-04-2005, 07:59 AM   #23
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Get the cyclo. There is a difference between virtually swirl free and swirl free. It makes a mirror finish with no swirls. If you are going to go to the trouble of polishing in the first place, don't settle for second best. As soon as you park yours next to one whose owner has spent the time and money to go the extra step, you will see the obvious improvement.

Also, as you go through the quarterly or semi-annual or annual polishing (depending on your climate) you will see a marked improvement. The shine just keeps getting better.

Additionally, you probably wont have to compound again if you repolish routinely. That's where the cyclo really comes in handy.

If you haven't been to perfectpolish.com please go there. There is a link there to The Airstream Polishing Project . The Mannings documented their every step to a mirror shine.
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Old 06-04-2005, 11:16 AM   #24
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
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Vic

Just looked at your newly posted pictures in the photo section - - - VERY nice work.

You are correct - its looking better every year.....

Ken J.
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