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Old 05-17-2005, 11:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Yup
Therefore I was warned that if your not careful, it could throw you off a ladder - so be careful and make sure you are always sure footed.....



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Good advice, in all areas of life!
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Old 05-18-2005, 12:54 AM   #16
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I got the Makita variable and it rocks!
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Old 05-18-2005, 07:17 AM   #17
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Pad Cleaning System

The pad cleaning system came from lake country manufacturing, which produces the buffing pads. Scott in sales was the person I spoke to.

The system is pretty neat, you fill it with water and a degreasing agent such as organge clean or fantastic, basically something that will not foam. There are several plastic wheels inside that scrape or pull water from the bucket and up into the pad. The power of the polisher does all the work. Open the guards, put the dirty pad (still attached to the polisher) into the top, close the guard, and run for 30-60 seconds. Lift up to spin the excess water off and the pad is clean. On the new pads, you'll have to clean out the wool. It workes very well. Much easier than doing it by hand.

I bought three of each type of pad, ranging from course cut to light cut. I polished one panel at a time and rotated the pads as they filled up. Before switching pads, I clean the pad and set it aside to dry. Leave until the next time I start polishing.
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Old 05-18-2005, 08:04 AM   #18
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well I got the Rand variable speed and a set of pads, so I can polish my bumpers and a few small areas, and do the paint on two cars.
My clearcoat is still too nice for me to strip it off.
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Old 05-18-2005, 08:30 AM   #19
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Mud

Thanks! Learn something new everyday - I did not know Lake had such a thing - they are great folks to work with and Scott is very knowledgable. I talked to him several times a when I did my first polishing job way back when.....

Ken
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Old 06-03-2005, 07:22 AM   #20
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Polishing Update and Product Review

Polishing = A learning experience.

I've spent about 20 hours so far and I'm about 20% done at this point. I am very pleased with my results and the level of effort is moderate, yet time consuming. The process is much like mowing the lawn, watch your pattern and pay attention for obstacles. Short of it being a good workout, polishing is theraputic to me at least. IMHO.

Attached are a couple photos. The DOOR is not done yet. Just finished compounding it!

As for product review, I am very pleased with the three different types of pads from lakecountry mfg. Scott was right on with the recommendation. For those just picking this thread up, I am not using a pad rak at all! I picked up a pad cleaning system from LakeCountry and once the pad is gummed up, I run it through a cleaning cycle, set it out in the sun to dry, and put on a clean pad. The whole process takes about 5 minutes. From what I read on perfect polish the one article on compounding recommended setting your pads aside for a day or two to soak. Very much recommend the system to someone starting out with a non-cyclo polishing project.

The variable speed polisher from Harbor Freight (Chicago Electric) for $29 was a good buy. I'm very pleased with the performance and at higher speeds I can see this thing throwing me if I am not careful. I'm definitely getting my dollars out of this polisher.

As for Rolite, super products! Nuf said.

Speaking of non-cyclo polishing, I am using rolite and had a question about number of RPMs per grade of polish. For compounding I'm using 1000-1500 RPMs, for polish I"m using 2500 and for AP300 I'm using 3500 or more. What speeds do others use?
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Old 06-03-2005, 07:44 AM   #21
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I've kept all my polishing to 1,000 - 1,500 rpm if I remember right lake was the one who recommended these speeds - you may want to call Scott and verify with him - he's a very helpful guy and seems always willing to help. You have to be careful not to overheat the surface.

FWIW - I don't think Lake recommends a need for the cylo - they say the final coat should be ap 300 with very little polish and very low speeds to remove swirl marks. I have to say that with all that I have read about the cylo, I will plan to get one - sounds like it does a better job of removing the swirls.

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Old 06-04-2005, 08:34 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
FWIW - I don't think Lake recommends a need for the cylo - they say the final coat should be ap 300 with very little polish and very low speeds to remove swirl marks. I have to say that with all that I have read about the cylo, I will plan to get one - sounds like it does a better job of removing the swirls.

Ken
From what I've seen, using a fine polish and soft pads (3M 5705) for the final pass leave the surface virtually swirl free. A lot depends on how badly the coarser compounding damaged the surface and how much time was taken to remove the multi directional swirls caused by the scratching on the surface. If you have an ultra fine polish, AP300 or HM Blue or Finesse It, rather than spend the money on a cyclo, try the foam pads that 3M sells for swirl removal. I have used them before on paint jobs and they work wonders. A black car will show any swirl from compounding, and the 3M foam pads are the best for removing them. Try it first!

Following the advice of companies that insist on swirling your aluminum by using their expensive products on a revolutionary buffer will create more work, as opposed to using the ages old system of wet sanding in a single horizontal direction, which is widely accepted as the norm in most any aircraft facility- especially those not using the Airmark or Spec barrel type polishers.
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Old 06-04-2005, 08:59 AM   #23
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Get the cyclo. There is a difference between virtually swirl free and swirl free. It makes a mirror finish with no swirls. If you are going to go to the trouble of polishing in the first place, don't settle for second best. As soon as you park yours next to one whose owner has spent the time and money to go the extra step, you will see the obvious improvement.

Also, as you go through the quarterly or semi-annual or annual polishing (depending on your climate) you will see a marked improvement. The shine just keeps getting better.

Additionally, you probably wont have to compound again if you repolish routinely. That's where the cyclo really comes in handy.

If you haven't been to perfectpolish.com please go there. There is a link there to The Airstream Polishing Project . The Mannings documented their every step to a mirror shine.
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Old 06-04-2005, 12:16 PM   #24
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Just looked at your newly posted pictures in the photo section - - - VERY nice work.

You are correct - its looking better every year.....

Ken J.
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