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lucymcdog · 03-23-2011, 06:57 PM

I am just starting to polish my 1960 18' Traveler and did one panel. It looked great in the garage but then we took it outside to wash the whole thing and there are black cloud looking things on the polished panel. Also, I was unable to get all the pitting (filiform?) off - any suggestions as to how to get all of it off? We spent about 10 hours on that one little front panel and at this rate we won't be through with it until we're dead.

Have I totally screwed up? What can be done to make the black go away? What did I do wrong to cause that?

I am using the black, brown, and red compounding sticks and a 7" polisher/sander with a sewn buffing wheel. I also have a buffing wheel that has no seams but that didn't take out the black stuff. In addition I have a flat fuzzy cover and a terry-cloth cover for a padded wheel that you use flat on the trailer.

I don't have a cyclo and really didn't want to buy one but will do so if that is the only way to make a mirror finish.

Help!

Melody Ranch · 03-23-2011, 07:21 PM

There is a chance you used to much of the black and went thru the alclad. Your best bet now is to use the white bar and try get the final polish on it...get the best you can. A cyclo is probably the best way for this, but a bonnet will do. Use micro fiber cloths and mineral spirits and corn starch or flour as a clean up. I have the same problems with the corrosion pitting still there after polish...I hate it....but live with it.

ddstech · 03-23-2011, 08:07 PM

I dealt with this same problem yesterday. I think Melody ranch is on it, but I was able to get it out. From this point on, I will abandon using the black bar, it was tempting because the polishing seemed to go so much faster, but the end result is dissapointing.

To fix it, I had to change from the sewn wheel to the buffing pad, and start with Nuvite G6 on a medium speed. I had to go over it twice, then follow it with F7, then F7 with the cyclo, then Grade S with the Cyclo.

Stick with the brown bar, it takes a little longer but the result is much better.

Also, It is critical that you completely remove all polish between every step.

This is just my experience, so take it for what its worth.

lucymcdog · 03-24-2011, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Melody Ranch

There is a chance you used to much of the black and went thru the alclad. Your best bet now is to use the white bar and try get the final polish on it...get the best you can. A cyclo is probably the best way for this, but a bonnet will do. Use micro fiber cloths and mineral spirits and corn starch or flour as a clean up. I have the same problems with the corrosion pitting still there after polish...I hate it....but live with it.

I've not used cornstarch or flour before - do I mix it with the mineral spirits to make a paste or just put some on a rag and wipe the surface with it?

Melody Ranch · 03-24-2011, 12:23 PM

Use it dry. Just put a little on a micro fiber rag and wipe away. You will be pleasantly surprised. I recommend the corn starch.

tkasten · 03-24-2011, 12:44 PM

Ditto on the corn starch. It works wonderfully. When I first started my polishing job I also found some of the "black ghosts". I went back over area with compounder and Nuvite 7 then cleaned it off really well. Then went to work with the Cyclo Nuvite 7 again then S. For my money you can't beat the Cyclo.

glacierrunne · 03-24-2011, 02:49 PM

Another vote for corn starch with dry micro-fiber rag then Cyclo!!!

lucymcdog · 03-24-2011, 05:49 PM

OK, you've convinced me that I need a cyclo. I've ordered it and the Nuvite and should have it next week. Now I need to buy another AS so I can justify buying the cyclo...

I'll post pictures when my little jewel shines.

Thanks for the help and advice.

Lindy

tkasten · 03-24-2011, 06:11 PM

Hey Lindy,

Don't worry bout the cost of the Cyclo. You will need it each year to keep the shine up. In fact I did mine last spring and by the end of summer it needed it again. It still looks great from 50 feet away. Water spots, smudges etc. really do show up in a hurry. The only good thing is the second polish is not as hard as the first.

4RXLA · 03-24-2011, 06:43 PM

Reading about all the labor required to achieve and maintain a high shine makes me glad my trailer is painted silver. I complain about waxing it once a year but that is nothing compared to polishing the aluminum with bars, rags, cyclos, etc...

ddstech · 03-24-2011, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dougsale

Reading about all the labor required to achieve and maintain a high shine makes me glad my trailer is painted silver. I complain about waxing it once a year but that is nothing compared to polishing the aluminum with bars, rags, cyclos, etc...

I do envy you to some degree, but the little voices in my head keep yelling at me to keep polishing....

lucymcdog · 03-24-2011, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkasten

Hey Lindy,

Don't worry bout the cost of the Cyclo. You will need it each year to keep the shine up. In fact I did mine last spring and by the end of summer it needed it again. It still looks great from 50 feet away. Water spots, smudges etc. really do show up in a hurry. The only good thing is the second polish is not as hard as the first.

I do love those shiny little trailers! And yours is beautiful! But polishing twice in one year? Does it ever end???

What about doing a clear coat on it?

BTW, did you make your rock guard? Got any closer-up pictures? If you didn't make it, where did you buy it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddstech

I do envy you to some degree, but the little voices in my head keep yelling at me to keep polishing....

Where did you guys get your awnings? Ah, yet another several hundred dollars I can spend on a 50 year old trailer!

lucymcdog · 03-25-2011, 03:41 PM

There are a few panels on my trailer that, after removing the clearcoat, are quite shiny. Can I get by with just using the "S" and the Cyclo or do I still use the wheel and the brown and/or red compound on it?

glacierrunne · 03-25-2011, 04:19 PM

As long as there is little if any filiform, on the shiny panels just use the cyclo F7 or S. I've learned a lesson don't use the black/brown bars unless there is alot of filiform! Just my two-cents. Don

lucymcdog · 04-18-2011, 07:09 AM

We have been busy polishing and so far it is looking good - just have a spot on the top and the front curves to go. And then, of course, we need to do the finish polishes with the red bar and the cyclo and Nuvite "S".

I have a question though. Do you seal the trailer after you're done? If so, what do you use? Has anybody used Wolfgang MetallWerk Metal Sealant? It is from Autogeek.com and this is what their product info says:

Seal in the mirror-like shine on all polished metals.

Once you’ve achieved a mirror-like gloss, seal and protect polished metal surfaces with Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant. This acrylic metal sealant eliminates any remaining polish residue for a cleaner, clearer shine that is protected from the elements.

Aluminum naturally oxidizes when introduced to air. A light layer of oxidation actually protects the underlying metal from further oxidation. When you remove this layer, you have exposed the aluminum to the air again. Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant replaces this barrier with clear acrylic polymers. This metal sealant provides durable protection against oxidation while the shiny, polished aluminum shows through.
Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant is the ultimate high gloss, all metal sealant. The water-based, acrylic formula is completely safe and nonabrasive on all types of metal: clear coated, painted, anodized, polished, and bare metals. The finish is crystal clear – never cloudy – on wheels, diamond plate, bumpers, trim, trailers, and much more. Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant locks in the shine you’ve created with Wolfgang MetallWerk metal polishes.
Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant goes a step beyond protection by removing any light residue that may detract from the metal’s shine. A light cleaning agent lifts any remaining residue from the metal as it deposits a clear layer of polymer protection. Metal polishing can be a messy process, creating a lot of black residue. Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant removes the last remnants of this residue to reveal the cleanest, most reflective finish.
Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant is a must for daily drivers and trailers, anything regularly exposed to the elements. A brilliant shine can diminish in a short time without protection. Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant leaves a slick coating that resists brake dust adhesion and repels dirt to maintain the just-polished gleam. You can expect 4-6 months of protection. When water no longer beads on the metal, it is time to reapply Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant. Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant is formulated specifically for metal surfaces. It should not be used on glass or plastics.
Apply Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant by hand or with a dual action or rotary polisher.

It SOUNDS good - has anybody tried it? Or is there something better? It's pricey - $35.00 for a 16 oz. bottle.

Ken J · 04-18-2011, 07:15 AM

Nuvite S has a kind of a sealer in it - since you are in dry climate, you really don't need anything else - just do an annual update with S and you are good to go.

Thats what I do........

Ken J.

TG Twinkie · 04-18-2011, 09:15 AM

Boy! Am I glad I have an Argosy. LOL

ALANSD · 04-18-2011, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lucymcdog

There are a few panels on my trailer that, after removing the clearcoat, are quite shiny. Can I get by with just using the "S" and the Cyclo or do I still use the wheel and the brown and/or red compound on it?

There are many who use Toolbox polish with a buffer and keep a great shine with somewhat less work. You can seal it with a good polymer car wax to help keep the shine.

lucymcdog · 04-18-2011, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Boy! Am I glad I have an Argosy. LOL

And *I'M* glad my trailer is just 18'!

tkasten · 04-18-2011, 03:03 PM

There is nothing like a freshly polished vintage AS. Yearly polishing is much less work than the first time. Seems like all sealers break down after several months. I used Nuvite S for final buff and it has a sealer in it. Lasted about 4 months then water spots, smudges etc. started showing up. From 50 feet away it still looks great. Time to buff her up again. First pic is last May just after polishing. 2nd pic is from 3 weeks ago. It's holding the shine pretty good.